First Service.....

[Andyaero]

Vetus 42, 50 hrs service.....

So common opinion seems to be that the first service is oil and filter only, but the vetus manual say oil and fuel filter, so that's what I plan to do. Anyone any experience on this engine as to whether it's easier to remove the oil from the sump plug or one of those pump things via the dipstick?

Cheers

 

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2025 by Andyaero

[MtB]

Sump plug, every time.

 

 

[b00ke23]

54 minutes ago, Andyaero said:

Vetus 42, 50 hrs service.....

So common opinion seems to be that the first service is oil and filter only, but the vetus manual say oil and fuel filter, so that's what I plan to do. Anyone any experience on this engine as to whether it's easier to remove the oil from the sump plug or one of those pump things via the dipstick?

Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

Is there enough clearance under the engine to get to the sump plug and get a container underneath it? 

[Ianws]

1 hour ago, MtB said:

Sump plug, every time.

 

 

Why? Not disagreeing, just asking why that's the best option. 

[Kingdom Isambard Brunel]

The stuff that wrecks engines is the sludge at the bottom of the sump which will contain metal shards and bearing material. Sucking through a narrow tube does not remove it. Pulling the plug out does.

[Tony Brooks]

7 hours ago, Ianws said:

Why? Not disagreeing, just asking why that's the best option. 

 

It is less likely to leave a little old oil in the sump, but that depends upon the angle the engine is installed at - not usually an issue on narrowboats, the sump plug locations, and most of all, the ability of getting a drain tin under it and out again without spilling.

 

I would do whichever is easiest in most cases.

[Tonka]

7 hours ago, Ianws said:

Why? Not disagreeing, just asking why that's the best option. 

Because it was designed to be used for that purpose. Putting a pump in through the dipstick hole may not get to the lowest part of the sump

[MtB]

9 hours ago, Ianws said:

Why? Not disagreeing, just asking why that's the best option. 

 

You asked which is easier!

 

Mucking about sucking it out through the dipstick hole is a right ol' faff and takes AGES in my experience so just unscrewing the sump plug and catching the oil in tray slid under wins hands-down in you have the space and can reach the plug. If not, then sucking it out is the only option. 

 

 

[dmr]

Is this a brand new boat or an engine replacement?.

 

I don't understand why the fuel filter needs replacing? Any ideas anybody?

 

A decent marine installation should have a (manual)  oil drain pump connected to the sump plug with a suitable length of hose.

[Momac]

3 minutes ago, dmr said:

 

 

I don't understand why the fuel filter needs replacing? Any ideas anybody?

I expect its a matter of whether a warranty is required to be intact or not.

Would have thought a first service possibly worth paying main dealer to do it for warranty purposes.

5 minutes ago, dmr said:

A decent marine installation should have a (manual)  oil drain pump connected to the sump plug with a suitable length of hose.

But many do not.

[b00ke23]

24 minutes ago, Momac said:

But many do not.

 

Including the Vetus 42. Although I think they supply a dipstick pump but I don't think that is very satisfactory....why they don't fit a proper sump pump when they marinise their engines I'll never know. I much prefer the sump mounted pumps that Beta put on their engines.

30 minutes ago, dmr said:

I don't understand why the fuel filter needs replacing? Any ideas anybody?

 

The cynic in me wonders if it is a ploy for Vetus to sell an expensive fuel filter, but maybe they have experience of fuel filters getting contaminated on new boats from build debris in the tank.  

Edited May 29, 2025 by booke23

[nicknorman]

32 minutes ago, dmr said:

Is this a brand new boat or an engine replacement?.

 

I don't understand why the fuel filter needs replacing? Any ideas anybody?

 

A decent marine installation should have a (manual)  oil drain pump connected to the sump plug with a suitable length of hose.

Fuel filter because a new  boat may well have swarf and other debris in the tank and pipework. If it’s a new engine in an old boat, I wouldn’t bother.

 

We have limited clearance under the gearbox so for that, I pump out via the dipstick as much as possible, then insert a shallow tray (not big enough to hold all the oil) and undo the drain plug.

 

The engine has a built in pump which sucks via a modified sump plug so using that is as effective as removing the sump plug.

[dmr]

I though Vetus like to be seen as top notch (and expensive) suppliers of engines and equipment. Not fitting a proper sump pump is a bit odd.

 

Build debris in the tank, or even hoses, could be the reason, so change the filter.

[mrsmelly]

2 minutes ago, booke23 said:

 

Including the Vetus 42. Although I think they supply a dipstick pump but I don't think that is very satisfactory....why they don't fit a proper sump pump when they marinise their engines I'll never know. I much prefer the sump mounted pumps that Beta put on their engines.

It's the very expensive yellow paint that takes all the money so no money left for niceties. Vetus stuff is massively over priced. Decent base engines but after that!! My vetus had an air box but they didn't bother putting a filter in it 🤨

[blackrose]

51 minutes ago, dmr said:

 

A decent marine installation should have a (manual)  oil drain pump connected to the sump plug with a suitable length of hose.

 

Yes, that's what my Isuzu has, but one does wonder where the pump is actually drawing from and how much old oil is left in.

 

2 hours ago, Kingdom Isambard Brunel said:

The stuff that wrecks engines is the sludge at the bottom of the sump which will contain metal shards and bearing material. Sucking through a narrow tube does not remove it. Pulling the plug out does.

 

Isn't that what the oil filter is for? I could take the sump plug out of mine but due to the height of the engine I'd never get a tray out without spilling it everywhere. So I use the built-in pump.

Edited May 29, 2025 by blackrose

[dmr]

2 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Yes, that's what my Isuzu has, but one does wonder where the pump is actually drawing from and how much old oil is left in.

 

 

Isn't that what the oil filter is for? 

 

The drain pump should connect to the sump plug so will be just as good (almost) as a conventional sump plug manual drain.

 

Modern oils contain additives to try to keep contamination in suspension so they it gets extracted by the oil filter, but even so some gunge and larger particles will eventually collect in the sump.

 

Many years ago my mini used so much oil that I never changed it,  just kept pouring in a couple of pints every week or two. Minis had the gearbox in the sump and eventually gear selection got very difficult due to the build up of sludge.

[MtB]

I change the oil on my Kelvin by taking the cover off the side of the crank case and baling it out with a tin. Then wiping the remains out with Blitz kitchen roll. 

 

The inside of the crankcase is painted a beautiful bright white so I don't miss any! 

 

 

[Stilllearning]

9 minutes ago, MtB said:

I change the oil on my Kelvin by taking the cover off the side of the crank case and baling it out with a tin. Then wiping the remains out with Blitz kitchen roll. 

 

The inside of the crankcase is painted a beautiful bright white so I don't miss any! 

 

 

Where's the smug emoji when I need it!

 

[dmr]

Blitz is good stuff, it stays together and does not go soggy or shed fibres, so is also fine for cleaning up inside fuel filters.

 

Some of the "engineers blue paper" is now really low quality so Blitz is a safer option. Sometimes on special offer in the supermarkets but some rolls are fatter than others so check that the bargains really are bargains. Good for cleaning paint brushes too. Every boat should have several rolls.

[MtB]

1 minute ago, dmr said:

Blitz is good stuff, it stays together and does not go soggy or shed fibres, so is also fine for cleaning up inside fuel filters.

 

Agreed. And discovered thanks to you telling me about it!

[Bod]

13 hours ago, Andyaero said:

Vetus 42, 50 hrs service.....

So common opinion seems to be that the first service is oil and filter only, but the vetus manual say oil and fuel filter, so that's what I plan to do. Anyone any experience on this engine as to whether it's easier to remove the oil from the sump plug or one of those pump things via the dipstick?

Cheers

 

 

 

 

Our Vetus M414, much older model, required the Head bolts to be re-tightened at 50 hrs, as well as the filters changed.

Check the hand book.

 

Bod

[Momac]

I tend to agree a means of oil extraction via the sump plug is ideal.

But failing that possibility the extraction of oil via the dipstick is a normal process. Electric and manual pumps are made specifically for this purpose.

[Tony Brooks]

3 hours ago, Momac said:

I tend to agree a means of oil extraction via the sump plug is ideal.

But failing that possibility the extraction of oil via the dipstick is a normal process. Electric and manual pumps are made specifically for this purpose.

 

And I understand that was the normal way at BMW dealers. I also did n on our VAG 3 pot diesel that got scrapped at in excess of 200,000 miles because of all sorts of weird body electrical problems, no excess smoke or oil consumption, so it can't be that bad. However, modern 0W5 oils make it far easier to extract through a thin tube than a typical boat's 15W40, even if you do get it really warm.

[Kingdom Isambard Brunel]

5 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Yes, that's what my Isuzu has, but one does wonder where the pump is actually drawing from and how much old oil is left in.

 

 

Isn't that what the oil filter is for? I could take the sump plug out of mine but due to the height of the engine I'd never get a tray out without spilling it everywhere. So I use the built-in pump.

The built in pump is replacing the drain plug in the bottom of the sump, very different from a vacuum sucking down the dip stick tube.

[missingtheboat]

As a general point, do you have 'approved' service people for boat engines? i.e. does it matter who you get to service your engine as far as maintaining the warranty goes? I was thinking I'd do most of the servicing myself in the longer term but had not actually considered the warranty issue.