Where do I get new wooden doors

[LadyG]

Hi, my New Year Resolution is to upgrade the rear doors, as the wood lining is in need of some repair, so I wonder if it's possible to get nice wooden door lining, also I'd like porthole liners. Not sure of costs, I'm 'up north'.

'

[agg221]

27 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Hi, my New Year Resolution is to upgrade the rear doors, as the wood lining is in need of some repair, so I wonder if it's possible to get nice wooden door lining, also I'd like porthole liners. Not sure of costs, I'm 'up north'.

'

Porthole liners - there are three options:

 

Wood - relatively thick, needs regular maintenance to avoid staining from the inevitable drips but does look nice.

Fibreglass - relatively cheap, needs no maintenance. Wood effect fibreglass is relatively convincing, or go for a solid colour.

Spun brass - I couldn't find anyone who would still supply them and ended up making my own. This was a serious challenge, but I am happy with how they came out. Not very practical for most people though.

 

Are you happy to fit the liners yourself, or do you want a fitter for them?

 

Alec

[frahkn]

I relined my (previously MDF) doors and hatches with oak.

 

I made the linings at home, where I have tools, and took them to the boat one or two at a time.

 

I then replaced each lining as the old ones fell off  became too tatty.

 

I bought the timber on-line. If you want a supplier recommendation just pm me.

Edited December 30, 2024 by frahkn

[Peugeot 106]

Picture please?

[David Mack]

27 minutes ago, agg221 said:

Porthole liners - there are three options:

 

Wood - relatively thick, needs regular maintenance to avoid staining from the inevitable drips but does look nice.

Fibreglass - relatively cheap, needs no maintenance. Wood effect fibreglass is relatively convincing, or go for a solid colour.

Spun brass - I couldn't find anyone who would still supply them and ended up making my own. This was a serious challenge, but I am happy with how they came out. Not very practical for most people though.

 

Are you happy to fit the liners yourself, or do you want a fitter for them?

 

Alec

Cut the bottom off a suitably sized dog bowl and glue in place:

[agg221]

28 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Cut the bottom off a suitably sized dog bowl and glue in place:

 

I like that one - it hadn't occurred to me! Certainly easier than doing this six times.

 

 

 

Alec

Edited December 30, 2024 by agg221

[David Mack]

7 minutes ago, agg221 said:

I like that one - it hadn't occurred to me!

 

Alec

I can't claim ownership of the idea - it has been posted on the forum before.

[Russ T]

35 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Cut the bottom off a suitably sized dog bowl and glue in place:

What a great idea,and the offcut could be used as a flue cap or chinamans hat.

 

The idea of lady G wielding an angle grinder with slitting disc fills me with dread though.

[agg221]

Just now, Rod Stewart said:

The idea of lady G wielding an angle grinder with slitting disc fills me with dread though.

I thought she might prefer a Dremel with some carbide bits. Slightly slower, but probably much more her style.

 

Alec

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, agg221 said:

Porthole liners - there are three options:

 

Wood - relatively thick, needs regular maintenance to avoid staining from the inevitable drips but does look nice.

Fibreglass - relatively cheap, needs no maintenance. Wood effect fibreglass is relatively convincing, or go for a solid colour.

Spun brass - I couldn't find anyone who would still supply them and ended up making my own. This was a serious challenge, but I am happy with how they came out. Not very practical for most people though.

 

Are you happy to fit the liners yourself, or do you want a fitter for them?

 

Alec

If they are the right size they should fit.

The fitter for the doors could do it, and would have tools,

[5239]

22 minutes ago, agg221 said:

I like that one - it hadn't occurred to me! Certainly easier than doing this six times.

 

 

 

Alec

that looks great,

mine are simply made from strips of 2” or more of copper with a folded edge,

the edge hammered/beaten to spread with the curve,

where the ends come together to form the circle they’re riveted,

 

I prefer yours 😃

[LadyG]

I've never seen dog bowls big enough to be fair

[MtB]

50 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Cut the bottom off a suitably sized dog bowl

 

First, where might one find said 'suitably sized dog'?

[Russ T]

21 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I've never seen dog bowls big enough to be fair

Dogs with bigger bowels have bigger bowls.

Edited December 30, 2024 by Rod Stewart
and probably bigger balls too.

[MtB]

 

Before nicking it's bowl...

 

 

[agg221]

32 minutes ago, 5239 said:

that looks great,

mine are simply made from strips of 2” or more of copper with a folded edge,

the edge hammered/beaten to spread with the curve,

where the ends come together to form the circle they’re riveted,

 

I prefer yours 😃

Mine were done using a sheet of cartridge brass. I cut out a circle and took out the middle.

 

I had never done any metal spinning before. I can now say from experience that it is relatively easy to spin metal inwards as it is being compressed, and relatively difficult to spin it outwards, ie stretch it, without tearing. Most spinning is making vessels, so it is done inwards, which is what the YouTube videos pretty much all show, but I found a video showing part of a car restoration programme where a new headlight bezel was spun. I didn't have the nerve to place the sheet on the spinning lathe and just go for it (I was using a lathe at work as mine isn't quite big enough, and was imagining the H&S investigation if my spinning disc of metal went whizzing across the workshop!) so I made a jig out of a piece of tube with the right OD and ID (I was lucky and found something suitable, but otherwise I could have rolled up some steel sheet, welded it and turned it to size, then welded a flat ring on the face to get the width). I drilled and tapped the back plate with six holes at M5, then made a front ring with a corresponding six holes so that I could drill through the brass and clamp it all in place with six socket head cap screws - that brass sheet wasn't going anywhere!

 

I found the brass would only go a fairly small way in before it needed annealing, so there were a lot of annealing steps. Taking it on and off the lathe repeatedly got tedious, as I had to wait until it was cool enough to handle each time, so I switched to hammer forming it. This also meant I could do most of the work at home and then just take it in for the final truing up on the lathe to take out the slight hammer marks, which were minimal by the time I got reasonably good at it. I made up a countersink punch and die set so the liners could be attached with countersunk brass screws. There is a slight return lip on the outer edge of the flat face which gives the illusion of thickness, hides the raw edge and also allows the countersink somewhere to sit.

 

I think by the time I had figured it I could make one in an evening, so not too bad really. The only limiting factor is that the jig has to be made specifically for each individual size - glad I only needed the one!

 

Alec

Edited December 30, 2024 by agg221

[LadyG]

29 minutes ago, agg221 said:

I thought she might prefer a Dremel with some carbide bits. Slightly slower, but probably much more her style.

 

Alec

It's the dog bowl look I reject,  I have a Dremel and a v expensive rotating disk. It was £18 ten years ago, still in package.

Edited December 30, 2024 by LadyG

[agg221]

3 hours ago, LadyG said:

If they are the right size they should fit.

Well yes, I think they are more likely to fit if they are the right size than the wrong size...

 

You have three primary dimensions. First, the inner diameter of the circle, which is critical as you can't adjust anything for that and the tolerance is fairly small as it it needs to be bigger than the glass and smaller than the exposed internal face of the porthole itself. Second, the outer diameter of the circle, which is governed by the thickness of the material you choose. Metal will be minimally thick, fibreglass a bit thicker, wood will be the thickest. You don't want the outer diameter to be bigger than the hole in the boat cabin side, otherwise the liner won't drop nicely against the porthole and you will have a 4mm gap (assuming you have a 4mm steel cabin side as per normal). This can be filled, but it will look ugly, so much better to get a liner which has the ID and OD that fit what's there and you don't want a fitter to have to take the portholes off to extend the size of the holes unless you really have to - that's a whole lot more work, including re-sealing and making good. Yes, in theory a liner can be fettled on the OD to drop into the hole and it's not too much work, but fiddling about with them will add an hour or so per liner so you really don't want to pay for that unless you can't get something which fits first time. Third, the depth of the porthole, measured from the face of the lining to the face of the porthole itself (not the glass). These can vary a bit in my experience as things aren't always as flat or even as you think they will be, but the fitter should be able to trim up a liner to fit exactly as this is how they are designed to be fitted.

 

It is, however, not a difficult job. It's one which can be taken slow and steady with hand tools and you can stop/start as often as you need to. It doesn't require any particular strength or skill so it is definitely something you could take on yourself if you felt so inclined, which would also keep costs down.

 

Alec

Edited December 30, 2024 by agg221

[LadyG]

They are currently lined with plastic trim, so i have the circumference 

What about the doors..?

Edited December 30, 2024 by LadyG

[Tony Brooks]

24 minutes ago, LadyG said:

They are currently lined with plastic trim, so i have the circumference 

What about the doors..?

 

I made mine. Templated onto cardboard. Cut two skins from 9mm ply, used 6 or 9mm strips of hard wood (I think) about 5mm wide around and across the ply and screwed and glued the ply to the frame. The edge in thin strips of the hard wood pinned and glued to the internal framing and plies. The countersunk screws holes were filled with body filler, sanded and the doors painted to match the boat. However, I did it in the garage at home. I would not like to try it while living on a boat. If you simply skin over or reskin the doors there is every chance they will no longe fit flush with the frame and you would have to alter the draught strips unless the new skin was the same thickness as the old one you had taken off.

[Jon57]

2 hours ago, David Mack said:

Cut the bottom off a suitably sized dog bowl and glue in place:

Or a plastic plant pot. And paint if required. I believe sml paints are good. 😁

[LadyG]

4 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

Or a plastic plant pot. And paint if required. I believe sml paints are good. 😁

Nought wrong with faux terracotta pots, but I need my liners to be stylish, maintenance free, easy to fit and look very classy.

Obviously not actually B&M , but not Harrods either ..,... price wise.....

[Jon57]

2 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Nought wrong with faux terracotta pots, but I need my liners to be stylish, maintenance free, easy to fit and look very classy.

Obviously not actually B&M , but not Harrods either ..,... price wise.....

Pva and glitter then a possibility. 😁

[Peugeot 106]

2 hours ago, LadyG said:

They are currently lined with plastic trim, so i have the circumference 

What about the doors..?

I made a template for mine off the old one then two sheets of 6mm marine ply with oak spacers in between. The spacers were from something like 2”x2” oak around the perimeter then more fitted where the lock and hinges fitted. I fitted a porthole by drawing a hole and placing more blocks so that when the hole was cut they blocked the perimeter of the hole. I didn’t have a big enough router to cut the hole but gave the porthole to a local joinery shop and they cnc routed a very accurate hole for me. ( it needs to be accurate as fixing holes very close to edge). I fitted polystyrene sheets in the remaining gaps.

 

I think you could at a push do it on your Narrowboat I glued and screwed bit all together in my kitchen at home

1)  make template including position of lock and hinges

2). Cut ply sheets to same sixpze as template

3) glue and screw oak spacers  as necessary

4) infill with insulation

5) glue and screw other sheet on 

Make sure no screws where router will cut or you won’t be popular!

if you handsaw the spacers use a miter block to ensure the ends are square
 

Now LadyG the clever bit for you if you have not enough sharp tools but are happy gluing and screwing. Take glued up door to joiner shop. Get them to:

1)router the porthole hole. 
2) take the hinges with you and ask them yo rebate them into the edge of the door

3 ) take the doorlock and ask them to fit it

Or if you want. You make the template and ask them to make the whole door. It should fit back into your frame with little fettling

 

i know it’s easy for me to suggest you can make it as I have a bit of experience and the tools but the more you can do yourself the cheaper it will be. At least if you know how it’s constructed you should be able to negotiate a decent price and may be paint it (SML of course! ) yourself. Painting before fitting and fixing the porthole is easiest

 

its actually quite a simple and satisfying project compared to many connected to narrowboats

 
it’s surprising how often I find myself looking out of the back door. I think you will like it. 
i’m afraid I thought I had pictures of my door being glued up on the kitchen table but I can’t find the pictures. I painted the outside . The inside skin Okume ( a bit like mahogany). I varnished. 
 

Something to look forward to for 2025!

 

[5239]

5 hours ago, LadyG said:

Hi, my New Year Resolution is to upgrade the rear doors, as the wood lining is in need of some repair, so I wonder if it's possible to get nice wooden door lining, also I'd like porthole liners. Not sure of costs, I'm 'up north'.

'

there used to be a carpenter who did boat stuff moored up at Stubbings Wharf,

ask about for Tony, he’s probably still there,

nice bloke,

rides a Silver Machine,