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Posted

Hi all,

 

I have a GRP cruiser which has already has some nonslip areas painted on the deck. They need freshening u and also, they are brown and I want to paint them white.

 

My plan is to use an orbital sander to buff the nonslip surfaces to give a key then mask off the gelcoat area before applying the paint with a roller. I was going to use painters tape to mask them off. It seems mostly straightforward but my query is, how do I achieve a smooth curve to the nonslip areas to follow the lines of the foredeck? I know some tape claims to be good for curves but I'm not sure how effective this would be.

 

As you might have deduced I'm new to this, so advice is welcome.

 

Thank you

Posted (edited)

I use fine line coach line tape to do curves and add masking tape to the offside building it up to get brush/roller protection.

 Fine line coach line tape is designed to do curves but it’s not wide.

Edited by BoatinglifeupNorth
Posted
2 minutes ago, Tonka said:

You get the crepe paper like tape that you can do curves with. We use it to do our mouse ears with

15337218739619556516797_1200.jpg?v=1533714673

Posted (edited)

 

Get a good quality masking tape like 'Frog Tape' it will follow the bow curve and will stop 'bleed under' that you tend to get with the cheaper 'paper' types.

 

It depends on how tight your curve is -  not a good picture, but this is mine, done with grey antislip on top of white 2-pack.

image.thumb.jpeg.3ba8c2b73805bf48e820c05dca53baa3.jpeg

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3454e52fea290be1479656447fc285e8.jpeg

 

 

Edited by Alan de Enfield
Posted (edited)

There is masking tape that is flexible, I don't know if it as good as the Frogtape, but for those areas I don't think it matters , it is where straight lines are painted for decorative effect that it is imperative to use the best.

If the area is already patterned in the gelcoat, I would want to clean it thoroughly, degrease with sugar soap, rinse, dry and then apply as little paint as possible, a brush might be used after a roller, in order to get in to the angles. Two thin coats always better than one thick.  I use the non slip granules, on the final coat, rather than buying the non slip paint.

You might need to use pure white undercoat to get rid of the brown even if you want to finish with grey white.

PS before sanding or buffing , I would roughly mask off the rest of area with cheapo tape, to ensure the buffer does not damage the smooth gelcoat, you may then apply the Frogtape to get a good clean edge.

Edited by LadyG
Posted

I had the reverse problem and wanted to paint up to the non slip and mask the mon slip. I used I think it was masking tape for concrete and it covered the non slip very well with no bleed under. It was also fairly flexible fit curves. Bought from Brombourough  Paints.

Don ‘t know if this helps or not!

Posted

Thank you for your help gentlefolk. I appreciate it. I will bit some of the tape suggested and mask off as carefully as I can. 
 

I like the look of your grey nonslip and in tempted to try that@Alan de Enfield Is it cool in the sunlight? My brown is unbearable to walk on with bare feet. 
 

I am using ready made nonslip paint and I wonder if I can apply any old undercoat to lighten the brown before applying the top nonslip coat?

 

i do appreciate the help 

Posted
1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Yes.

It is 'ready made' with very small plastic beads incorporated into the paint - just needs a good stiring before using.

Not very eco friendly using micro plastiic

Posted
22 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

Correct. Somebody doesn't realise how small a micrometre is!

 

That'd probably give you about the same antislip characteristics as a teflon coated frying pan !

Posted
Just now, Alan de Enfield said:

 

That'd probably give you about the same antislip characteristics as a teflon coated frying pan !

Didn't someone try crushed walnut shell 

Posted
42 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

Correct. Somebody doesn't realise how small a micrometre is!

 

 

But microns are *huge* when you're working on things measured in nm... 😉 

Posted
46 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Didn't someone try crushed walnut shell 

 

Our last shareboat had crushed walnut shells added to the roof paint 

 

It provided excellent non-slip properties but skinned you knuckles when polishing the brass mushrooms if you weren't very careful.

Posted
1 minute ago, cuthound said:

 

Our last shareboat had crushed walnut shells added to the roof paint 

 

It provided excellent non-slip properties but skinned you knuckles when polishing the brass mushrooms if you weren't very careful.

 

So there was an easy way to stop skinning your knuckles.

Posted
Just now, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

Or analysing everything in life through a microscope😉

Better than making troll posts though... 🙂 

Posted
2 minutes ago, IanD said:

Better than making troll posts though... 🙂 

Or pointless posts trying to look smart😉😉😉😉😉

3 minutes ago, numpty said:

Anyway, @Alan de Enfield I do like the grey. I might go for that 😀

 

Folks, can I use any old undercoat as a first coat after sanding? I assume it doesn't need to be keyed if it's undercoat?

A good nonslip topcoat is international Interdeck, nice grip texture without being too abrasive. Craftmaster will mix nonslip in any of their paint colours.

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