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My 57 ft Boat refurb


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11 minutes ago, AI Rowboat said:

Yes, but only to your eyes!

Hopefully this will be my 10th post where I finally get to see the hidden topics.

Been foiled twice already by that pesky post merging.

Not expecting much to be honest, anything less than total disappointment will be a result.

I didn't know there were hidden posts to see

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2 minutes ago, Paul C said:

The Virtual Pub subforum is hidden until 10 posts are made, or something like that.

Are the pub, I never go there, enough C**p on the main list to keep me going. I have been a couple of times when a post has popped up about something there 

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23 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I didn't know there were hidden posts to see

Things may have changed since you joined the board, so…..

Here’s a screenshot I prepared earlier…..

Trouble is, now they’re all visible I’m not sure which ones they were.

Such is life!

 

 

CA96043C-9C2C-4260-AF03-D31A8675265E.png

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4 hours ago, Paul C said:

The Virtual Pub subforum is hidden until 10 posts are made, or something like that.

Got a peek inside the Virtual Pub where the beer is warm but reasonably potent.

Many pints later stumbled across the Political Quagmire topic and ended up shocked…..shocked I tell you!

Just kidding, nothing really shocks me any more.

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  • 1 month later...

Today I had a serious professional welder fill in the deepest pits on the old girl, I brought a boat surveyor to tell me would it be plausible and he said it would.  Actually there was not many 2mm deep, but we did them all, I'm not grinding the weld off (he did long runs over 3 or 4 at a time) overplating would have cost a small fortune, so this may help others with pitting, this old girl was built in 1979, so not bad considering. 

20240629_121024.jpg

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I know nothing about welding, so apologies for this, but . . . .

 

I think the ‘stud’ the negative cable is clipped to is welded onto the hull. If so, how did the welder fix the negative to weld that on, and why was it not good enough for the rest of the welding?

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4 hours ago, Col_T said:

I know nothing about welding, so apologies for this, but . . . .

 

I think the ‘stud’ the negative cable is clipped to is welded onto the hull. If so, how did the welder fix the negative to weld that on, and why was it not good enough for the rest of the welding?

I am or was a welder know retired .The welder would have clipped the earth clamp to the stud and held the stud on the hull . Then welded the stud to it  .

when all the welding is finished he will grind the stud off the hull

i hope that explains your question 

Graham

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17 hours ago, Col_T said:

I know nothing about welding, so apologies for this, but . . . .

 

I think the ‘stud’ the negative cable is clipped to is welded onto the hull. If so, how did the welder fix the negative to weld that on, and why was it not good enough for the rest of the welding?

I missed him doing that and I wondered just the same, I think his normal spring clamp may keep jumping off, so he made a good fix.

14 hours ago, nealeST said:

will you be having it all sand blasted after? There is no other way of getting rid of that rust.

I'm waiting to hear from the blaster, he is only 2 miles away near Brinklow.

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Interesting the way the boat has been chocked, with those big corrugated sheets underneath two of them. 

 

I imagine they tend to flatten a bit as the boat is lowered onto them, thus sharing the weight more evenly onto each chock. 

 

 

Or maybe they are just piling sheets which will be too thick to bend, and are just making up the right height!

 

 

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10 hours ago, Manxcat54 said:

I'm waiting to hear from the blaster

It will clean up like no ones business! But make it our business and share a photo. I did a stripped Triumph Tr3 on a homemade rotisserie and its chassis . Hellish job but amazing result.

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On 01/07/2024 at 18:23, jacko264 said:

I am or was a welder know retired .The welder would have clipped the earth clamp to the stud and held the stud on the hull . Then welded the stud to it  .

when all the welding is finished he will grind the stud off the hull

i hope that explains your question 

Graham


So obvious now you explain it! Clearly I am even less of a practical person than I thought I was!!

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23 hours ago, MtB said:

Interesting the way the boat has been chocked, with those big corrugated sheets underneath two of them. 

 

I imagine they tend to flatten a bit as the boat is lowered onto them, thus sharing the weight more evenly onto each chock. 

 

 

Or maybe they are just piling sheets which will be too thick to bend, and are just making up the right height!

 

 

I guess they're acing like big snowshoes to enlarge the footprint and help mitigate any softness of ground/sinking of chocks.

It's a new one on me though. Never seen it done in our yard or previous marinas.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Progress feels slow, however I have stripped out under the Bow and varnished the original wooden base, for a new plastic water tank, all the hull now has one coat of blacking, I am playing around making a floor above the engine, with 2 steps, and even though my joinery skills are zero, I am managing to make a shower wall, I did put some primer on the stern and rubbed it down a little to see what it looked like, I think a lot more sanding to do yet, but slowly slowly. PS: I still cannot spin these photo's sorry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well done, interesting topic.

 

One thing for you to consider. The corrugated trunking that you are running the cables in. We had a short circuit in a length of plastic tube being used in the same way, and it was pig to gain access to the damaged length of wiring. As you are supporting it in P clips, my choice would be similar stuff but split along its length and installed with the split along the top.

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i don't want to seem overly critical, but i notice a lot of the wiring is the same colour 'Red' so you may want to invest in some cable marker numbers to identify diffferent circuits.  Or it might be worth looking for some different colours (search for 'tri-rated' wire) sometimes you can pick up part coils or new old stock quite reasonably.  if possible avoid using Red for the neg/return - just had to sort some wiring out for someone where everything was 'red' and it was a nightmare. Except for the battery/alternator cables where it was all black, with a bit of red insulating tape on the end for the battery/alternator positives... 😒

 

Sorry when i look at your pic again i can see you have quite a lot of black too ! I'll leave the comment in for the benefit of others.  

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26 minutes ago, hider said:

Being pedantic, for ultra low voltage, eg.12v the positive should be yellow and the negative brown but then that gets confusing too!

 

You do often give useful advice, but sometimes you also give incorrect advice.

 

Actually being accurate (rather than predantic) if the boat contains both AC & DC (which the vast majority do) the use of certain colours in the Low Voltage DC system is not allowed (Brown being one of them)

 

18.6 Means of identification other than insulation colour for DC negative conductors if the craft is fitted with multiple independent DC systems is permitted if properly identified on the conductor and craft wiring diagrams of the electrical system(s).


NOTE 1

A colour stripe can be added to conductor insulation for identification in the system.
Craft with AC and DC systems shall avoid the use of brown, white or light blue insulation colour in the DC system.

 

 

 

 

The only time those colours can be used is if there is a distance of 100mm between the AC and DC wiring, AND the DC wires are clearly marked as DC wiring.

 

 

 

19.4 Active (phase) and neutral conductors of the AC system shall be identified.

Identification can be made by insulation colour as defined below, by numbering or by other means on the wiring diagram for the system supplied with the craft. For single-phase systems:
— active (phase) conductors shall be black or brown;
— neutral conductors shall be white or light blue;

 

Source :

 

 

 

 

 

ISO 13297 AC-DC Wiring SPEC COVER PAGE ONLY.png

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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