Vactan - has it worked?!

[YSA]

Hi all!

 

I'm in the process of getting my stern gland bilge in good shape and after getting rid of loose rust and degreasing, I applied a coat of vactan. 

Picture of what the result is attached.

 

I can't tell whether it's still rusty or if I'm good to go ahead with a top coat! 

[Tracy D'arth]

I can see some rust flaking areas there. What happens if you bang it with a hammer on the flaky bits?

There is no point in top coating flakes and there should be a zinc rich primer first anyway.

[YSA]

There's no flaking - I've gone over with a scraper and hit with a hammer and nothings coming off. There are still some rust spots though, now that I've looked at it again, so will go over those bits one more time. 

 

And will make sure to use a primer, thank you! 

[dmr]

duuno? is there much to be gained from a zinc primer when Vactan has dried to produce a barrier over the steel???

Give it a couple of coats of Danboline, but note that rust converters are only a third best solution so don't expect it to last for too long.

[Bod]

Work another coat of Vactan into the bottom of every pit and weld crease.

Just doing the flat bits is a waste of time, the rust lurks in the pits.

 

Bod.

[agg221]

7 hours ago, dmr said:

duuno? is there much to be gained from a zinc primer when Vactan has dried to produce a barrier over the steel???

Give it a couple of coats of Danboline, but note that rust converters are only a third best solution so don't expect it to last for too long.

 

'Zinc rich' has two meanings. One is high loadings of zinc metal powder, in a paint such as Galvafroid or Zinga which provide galvanic protection. For this to work you need direct contact between the steel and the paint, so it won't work over rust or a layer of Vactan. The other meaning is high loadings of zinc phosphate pigment which is a very good barrier against oxygen and moisture. This is the type you would want to apply over Vactan.

 

Alec

[dmr]

13 minutes ago, agg221 said:

 

'Zinc rich' has two meanings. One is high loadings of zinc metal powder, in a paint such as Galvafroid or Zinga which provide galvanic protection. For this to work you need direct contact between the steel and the paint, so it won't work over rust or a layer of Vactan. The other meaning is high loadings of zinc phosphate pigment which is a very good barrier against oxygen and moisture. This is the type you would want to apply over Vactan.

 

Alec

 

This does not really add up. Almost all metal primers are rich in Zinc Phosphate and we are constantly told here that these are not moisture resistant and must be over-coated asap (except BondaPrimer). Sounds like you might know about this so please explain?

[blackrose]

8 hours ago, dmr said:

 but note that rust converters are only a third best solution so don't expect it to last for too long.

 

∆∆∆

The only reason so many people use Vactan is because they don't know how to prep the steel properly. Getting rid of all the rust mechanically including the rust in the bottom of pits and then priming or epoxying it is the proper way to do it and much better than converting the rust under a layer of water soluble latex.

[Old Son]

I've used Vactan on the welds to my roof handrail  Didn't overcoat for two years and it didn't rust anymore. I also coated the galvanised chains holding the button and rear fender. These had started to go rusty. Again, no further rust.

 

Funny how some of these materials work for some and not others!

[Bobbybass]

After applying Vactan you need to wire brush slightly.

 

Vactan converts the rust and gives a coating for your top coat. It doesn't stick to paint and will flake off.