Help me fix this . . .

[MtB]

5 minutes ago, EnglishRose said:

Other half says if we are going to replace it properly may as well now. The wooden ball knobs would be far cheaper though!

 

 

I've been on the cusp of suggesting replacing the whole assembly too. You could actually spend a LOT more time f-ing about with the handle only to find something else more serious goes wrong with it and your get stranded, as it looks well past its sell-by. 

 

Fit a whole new one. You know it makes..... (I'll let Alan post his meme  ) 

 

 

 

[EnglishRose]

8 minutes ago, MtB said:

Fit a whole new one. You know it makes..... (I'll let Alan post his meme  ) 

 

 

Just need to know which one I need to get! Don't want to get the wrong one!

[MtB]

3 minutes ago, EnglishRose said:

 

Just need to know which one I need to get! Don't want to get the wrong one!

 

Errr, get a new one the same! 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

26 minutes ago, EnglishRose said:

That looks similar but is horizontal rather than vertical fitting (and I presume that makes a difference as the throttle would be in neutral pointing permanently to the right )!

 

The levers can normally be mounted in almost any position relative to the body.

 

Yours looks like a surface mount one and as the levels ca be fitted in any position the body can be mounted vertically, horizontally, or at any odd angle.

 

The cables are almost certainly standard 33C type.

 

This one should be a straight swap https://www.compass24.com/motor/piloting/switching-systems/189017/single-lever-remote-engine-control?sPartner=google_products_com&number=148171_8&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=freeshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInsrGo4P9_gIVqwcGAB3NTQIDEAQYECABEgL6UfD_BwE

 

 

[EnglishRose]

13 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Errr, get a new one the same! 

 

 

Well that's the issue, I can't seem to find one exactly the same when I Google lens or searh Whitlock!

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

 

The levers can normally be mounted in almost any position relative to the body.

 

Yours looks like a surface mount one and as the levels ca be fitted in any position the body can be mounted vertically, horizontally, or at any odd angle.

 

The cables are almost certainly standard 33C type.

 

This one should be a straight swap https://www.compass24.com/motor/piloting/switching-systems/189017/single-lever-remote-engine-control?sPartner=google_products_com&number=148171_8&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=freeshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInsrGo4P9_gIVqwcGAB3NTQIDEAQYECABEgL6UfD_BwE

 

 

You're a star @Tony Brooks thank you!

[Tony Brooks]

PS You may find that you can fit a new "flush mount" control into your outer case if it saves cash.

 

I think yours may well date from the 1960s/70s. Whitlock controls were considered to be a better product compared with some of the time.

[EnglishRose]

8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

PS You may find that you can fit a new "flush mount" control into your outer case if it saves cash.

 

I think yours may well date from the 1960s/70s. Whitlock controls were considered to be a better product compared with some of the time.

 

Not 60/70s. Ours is a 1999 Midway 265 (first Piper built Midway)

[ditchcrawler]

1 hour ago, MtB said:

  You could actually spend a LOT more time f-ing about with the handle only to find something else more serious goes wrong with it and your get stranded, as it looks well past its sell-by. 

 

 

 

 

Isn't that what boating is all about

[MtB]

7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Isn't that what boating is all about

 

Not according to a few recent threads on here. It's more about suing the boat builder because the alternator stopped charging the domestic bank rather than rolling your sleeves up and fixing it. And whining about craning charges off the lorry...

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

16 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Not according to a few recent threads on here. It's more about suing the boat builder because the alternator stopped charging the domestic bank rather than rolling your sleeves up and fixing it. And whining about craning charges off the lorry...

 

 

I missed them ones

[Tracy D'arth]

11 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I missed them ones

Lucky you, they bored the pant off most of us.

[EnglishRose]

On 17/05/2023 at 19:55, Tony Brooks said:

 

The levers can normally be mounted in almost any position relative to the body.

 

Yours looks like a surface mount one and as the levels ca be fitted in any position the body can be mounted vertically, horizontally, or at any odd angle.

 

The cables are almost certainly standard 33C type.

 

This one should be a straight swap https://www.compass24.com/motor/piloting/switching-systems/189017/single-lever-remote-engine-control?sPartner=google_products_com&number=148171_8&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=freeshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInsrGo4P9_gIVqwcGAB3NTQIDEAQYECABEgL6UfD_BwE

 

 

The company is based in Germany and it's about a month until we would receive it. @Tony Brooks do you have any alternative suggestions of similar? Ours is a surface mount one.

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, EnglishRose said:

The company is based in Germany and it's about a month until we would receive it. @Tony Brooks do you have any alternative suggestions of similar? Ours is a surface mount one.

 

@magnetman linked to the same item that I did, but well before I did. As we both found the same item and I could not find another, I suspect that will be it. unless you visit a number of chandlers.

 

That style of surface mount is/was often used for outboard engines, so an OB dealer may have access to such types.

 

It seems the Ultraflex B90 or B80 may be what you need, but looking at the cost, I would be trying to sort the existing handle. If the horizontal part has not been hardened, then drilling it out (as others have mentioned) so a long bolt can be put though it to secure some kind of knob made from whatever you find convenient. I would take the handle off so the part where the horizontal part is can be properly supported for drilling. If it is hard, then a cobalt drill may be needed.

 

The problem is that the boat design makes it difficult to fit an alternative "flush mount" type without welding to attach a strong box to the existing plate the control is fixed to. That is likely to cost more than the new control.

 

On all single lever controls, it is vital that you gain access to the back of the control every couple of years or so. This is so you can inspect the trunnions that attach the cables to the levers. This is so you can change them if worn and lubricate them. Ignoring this will eventually lead to a loss of control when a trunnion wears through. If you take the control off, so you can inspect the trunnions and lubricate and change as required, then as long as the operation is smooth with minimal slack I am sure it will last for many more years. In that case, making and fitting an alternative "top" would be worth it.

[EnglishRose]

5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

It seems the Ultraflex B90 or B80 may be what you need, but looking at the cost, I would be trying to sort the existing handle. If the horizontal part has not been hardened, then drilling it out (as others have mentioned) so a long bolt can be put though it to secure some kind of knob made from whatever you find convenient. I would take the handle off so the part where the horizontal part is can be properly supported for drilling. If it is hard, then a cobalt drill may be needed.

Thanks, I'll think we will look at a temporary fix for now but order the Compass 24 replacement as I think as others have mentioned it doesn't look in great condition and eventually is inevitable it will need sorting out.

[Tony Brooks]

6 minutes ago, EnglishRose said:

Thanks, I'll think we will look at a temporary fix for now but order the Compass 24 replacement as I think as others have mentioned it doesn't look in great condition and eventually is inevitable it will need sorting out.

 

Do not think that the cosmetic appearance of the coating is any indication of the state of the working parts. I am sure the case and lever are light alloy and that does seem to cause the coating to flake etc. over time. This is why I suggested that you take the whole thing off, so you can look at the back. If anything is likely to fail, it will be a trunnion that only costs a few pounds.

[magnetman]

I think the lever part will be aluminium and easy to drill.

 

Are the threaded inserts in fact wooden?

 

I'd not be replacing the whole thing. It seems to me that it is probably a high quality item and if it works then don't mess with it. Just get a T bar or something on it to make it more comfortable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

A UK supplier for a new control

 

https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/ultraflex-b90-engine-gear-change-control-side-mount-single-lever-4-b90#

 

 

1 minute ago, magnetman said:

I think the lever part will be aluminium and easy to drill.

 

Are the threaded inserts in fact wooden?

 

I'd not be replacing the whole thing. It seems to me that it is probably a high quality item and if it works then don't mess with it. Just get a T bar or something on it to make it more comfortable.

 

I very much doubt the "threaded" cross piece will be alloy, I am sure it is steel from the look of it. That is what has to be drilled out before drilling the alloy lever, but I don't see drilling the actual lever is required. It is just the small horizontal piece that needs to go.

[magnetman]

 

The  best option seems to be drill from above with an 8.5mm drill then use a 10mm tap to make up a M10 thread. Put a short stud in it and get a plastic ball with an M10 threaded insert and screw it down onto it.

 

2 inch diameter aluminium ball with M10 thread

 

https://www.vital-parts.co.uk/aluminium-ball-knobs---hk017-7673-p.asp

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

I very much doubt the "threaded" cross piece will be alloy, I am sure it is steel from the look of it.

 

I think that is wood. It is an odd thread for it to be steel but I've seen those threads on wooden items.

 

Easy to establish this, of course !!

One of these I reckon

 

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, magnetman said:

think that is wood. It is an odd thread for it to be steel but I've seen those threads on wooden items.

 

Easy to establish this, of course !!

 

If it's wood, then the OP will have no problem. Hopefully they will feed back, so we can know for sure.

 

I am sure there are wood fibres in the thread, but there are areas that look suspiciously like rust to me, and wood or alloy do not rust. The end also looks more like metal machining to me.

Edited May 19, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[EnglishRose]

I'm just out but I'll investigate and report back shortly.

[magnetman]

These look nice. 316 stainless hollow balls with threaded insert.

 

80mm would be a good handful. 6.8mm drill then an M8 thread vertically then put a stud in and screw the ball down onto it with some loctite threadlocker.

 

https://www.easyfixbalustrades.com/product/hollow-ball-80mm-threaded-316/

 

 

 

A big stainless steel ball on there would be really nice.

 

 

 

[GUMPY]

Looks to me like there is a nursert in the vertical handle in which case the two mounts will just unscrew.

[rusty69]

2 minutes ago, Loddon said:

Looks to me like there is a nursert in the vertical handle in which case the two mounts will just unscrew.

Nutsert?

[GUMPY]

11 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Nutsert?

A threaded insert of some type often a

coarse thread on outside and fine thread on the inside. Could also be a helicoil 

[rusty69]

Just now, Loddon said:

A threaded insert of some type often a

coarse thread on outside and fine thread on the inside. Could also be a helicoil 

Yeah, I know what it is. I was questioning the spelling incase anyone else didn't know what you were referring to.