Stourport Ring via Stourbridge

[BentiniThompsoni]

I had such great advice from these forums while planning this holiday that I thought I'd provide a report to help anyone else thinking of doing the same.

 

We hired 'Hanbury' from Anglo Welsh at Old Tardebigge Wharf for 7 nights from 2nd to 9th May 2023. At 68ft she was quite a bit longer than narrowboats I've driven before, but she handled well and the extra space inside was great.

 

Day 1 - Tardebigge to Stoke Prior
After a smooth handover we set off south along the Birmingham and Worcester, departing around 15:15 we arrived at our mooring for the night beside the Queen's Head at 19:20. The Tardebigge Flight took us 3 hours from lock 57 with a crew of 4; 1 steering, 2 on the bank and 1 on the tea and cake (very important task). They were all set against us and we didn't meet anyone coming the other way; a theme for most of the week. 10 locks per hour isn't bad going, right?

 

Day 2 - Stoke Prior to Worcester
Set off at 9am and reached the Fir Tree at 13:00, but didn't stop to eat there, instead pushed on for half an hour and ate on board below the church at Oddingley, which was interesting to visit. We were off again at 14:45 and reached Worcester at 19:00, mooring below the Sidbury lock before the Mill Street bridge (no.2). Moorings are 2hr max beyond the bridge. Hearty meal in the Kings Head and an ill-advised trip through the empty streets in search of dessert (avoid the Little Dessert Shop at the end of the High Street).

 

Day 3 - Worcester to Stourport
Thanks to information on here I'd been made aware of the opening times of the Bevere and Holt locks on the Severn and so it made sense to set off after lunch. We had a walk around Worcester in the morning, after checking out the two wide locks we'd be using to get down onto the river. I underestimated how long it would take to fill the water tank so we got under way a little later than planned, so we were on the river by 13:30. I opted to turn around downstream in the lock approach by the entrance to the old oil basin rather than turn upstream immediately after exiting the lock and risk drifting towards the weir. As it was the current wasn't that fast so could've probably made it ok, but I did have crew to pick up from the pontoon. Our delayed departure meant we made it to Bevere with just 5 minutes to spare! The same lock keeper was at Holt (hence the closing times for both) when we arrived at 16:00 and then we met his wife operating the Lincomb lock at 17:30 (keeping it in the family), the approach is so overgrown and foreboding that I worried we'd taken a wrong turn. Info on Severn Lock openings can be found here - https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/notices/24375-gloucester-and-sharpness-canal-and-river-severn-navigation-customer-consultation

 

Turning off the wide serene Severn into the narrow lock at Stourport was a challenge. I had to make a second attempt as the current took me downstream just as I was on the approach. Once we'd realised that the lower part of the staircase needed to overflow over the gates to level it with the upper part we were up and into the first basin. The sharp right hand turn in the second basin was not fun. The clocktower struck 7 as the rain started and the wind proceeded to push us into the portside moored boats and the annoyingly unfendered ends of the pontoons. We made the turn only by means of a crew member stood on the corner pontoon with the bow rope, acting as pivot as we slowly made our way round. Matters were not helped by numerous resident boaters calling out contradictory advice. I know it must be frustrating to see hire boaters cocking things up, but when the wind is foiling your plans it's not great for one's stress levels! For future reference, come out of the lock and hug the starboard side boats straight away, and get someone on the pontoon sharpish if you've a long boat.

 

Frustratingly the gate up from the landing place for the York Street lock was chained shut, so one of our crew had to clamber over the wall to get to the gates. Navigating a 68ft boat along the winding course of the Staff. and Worcs. after the relative straightness of the B&W and the wide open Severn was quite the shock. We pushed on out of Stourport and moored around 20:00 on the stretch before Bullocks Lane Bridge for a much needed meal aboard.

 

Day 4 - Stourport to Stourbridge

We departed just after 9am and stopped for a food shop at the Tesco in Kidderminster and an hour's lunch on board halfway between Cookley and Kinver when the heavens opened. Beautiful scenery slipping by and a fascinating cut through the red rock. We made our way down the Stourbridge arm and turned in the marina. The winding hole is barely more than a notch in the wall and there was another boat moored partly across one side which didn't help, but we made it round and back out to moor just beyond the water point at 20:00. We'd hoped for a meal at the Old Wharf Inn, but it was a busy Friday and there were no tables to be had. We plumped for a  takeaway from the Chinese next door instead.

 

Day 5 - Stourbridge to Netherton Hill

Pretty miserable day weather wise, with the drizzle accompanying us most of the way. We left at 11 and reached the top of the Stourbridge 16 by 14:00. After a stop for lunch, again onboard as we were doing our damndest to avoid all things Coronation in the pubs en route, we did the Delph flight in an hour and by 18:30 were moored up below Netherton Hill just beyond Cattle Bridge. Went for a stroll along the defunct stretch that leads around the reservoir and then up to the church on top of the hill for a fine view of the Clent Hills and beyond, back the way we'd come.

 

Day 6 - Netherton Hill to Birmingham Centre

The sun was back with us thankfully, perfect weather for going underground. We departed at 11 and reached Tipton station (to collect another crewmate) by 13:30. Netherton Tunnel took us 50mins and was quite the disorientating experience to begin with, the monotony of it and the tricks of the light. The ventilation shafts were cascading with yesterday's rain. We stopped for lunch just after the Factory Junction and pushed on along the Old Line into Birmingham. We decided to forego the Black Country Living Museum, vowing to visit it another time when we could give it the attention it deserves. We moored up opposite the NIA (Utilita I should say) at 19:00 having been greeted by a welcoming party of teenagers on Sheepcote Street Bridge who threw sticks at the boat (mostly missed) and poured pineapple juice on us (mostly dodged) which wasn't quite the arrival we'd hoped for. Had a drink outside the Tap and Spile and then a huge meal at Piccolino's on Oozell's Square.

 

Day 7 - Birmingham to Alvechurch

Very quiet night considering our central location. Spent the morning mooching around the city in the drizzle. I can recommend the view from the rooftop terraces of the library on Centenary Square; even with the lowering clouds it was stunning. We set off at 13:00 and pootled down the B&W towards the Wast Hill Tunnel. It was rather daunting entering as the far portal was not to be seen so it felt like we were heading into the unknown. A grey patch gradually appeared, but was replaced by the bright light of an oncoming boat which we inched past about half an hour after first spotting it. It took us 50mins to get through and then on the other side the rain really came down. We moored up just before the bridge next to Alvechurch station at 18:00 and walked into the village for a lovely final meal at the Red Lion.

 

Day 8 - Alvechurch to Tardebigge

Up early to pack and set off at 8am to return the boat by 9. The final stretch was very beautiful in the morning light and I was rather sad to be finishing so soon. Mooring up under the watchful eye of the Anglo Welsh engineer was a little anxiety inducing, but we did it perfectly (their words). We gathered our things, got a refund of about £30 on unused fuel and then were in the car once more and travelling at a terrifying 30 miles an hour through the lanes homeward bound.

 

As has been mentioned in many places the Stourport Ring is well worth it, with a huge variety of things to see along the route and everything a canal can offer thrown in. Our mooring spots each night were rather beholden to the logistics of picking up/dropping off a changing roster of crew, and so some days were longer than others in terms of cruising times, but I never felt overstretched or pushed for time (apart from making that first lock on the Severn!). I am of course thinking about where to go next, got my eye on the Kennet and Avon; want to see how the Caen Hill flight compares to Tardebigge.

 

If you're thinking of doing this circuit and have any questions please do ask.

[Rob-M]

Stourport basin can have some terrible cross winds.  Sometimes you have to just be confident, power on and trust you will make it but when the wind is blowing you sideways in the opposite direction towards some horrendously expensive fibreglass boat it can be quite concerning.