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Brasso


Morris

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After polishing your bright bits do you have to be careful with the resulting brasso soaked cloth as with some woodworking oils? 

I know brasso rags are good for starting fires in the stove but I don't fancy a spontaneous one! 

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I had 12 years in the army during the days when there was no such thing as staybright plastic. Loads and loads of brass to keep shiny every day or a day peeling spuds was the order. I never knew a brasso soaked rag, and we had lots of them, catch fire or damage anything but they did stink a bit. As said put it in a zippy bag if your concerned.

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That's good to know thanks. I used to have linseed oil soaked rags at work. I didn't know about the possibility of spontaneous combustion and never had a problem, so I guess the chances are pretty remote even with the oils known to cause it. 

I like the zip lock suggestion as they don't half pen and ink!

 

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Modern Brasso is nothing like good as it was.  Try Peek.  It is much better at heavy tarnish, it don't  stink and it is a paste, so no spills when you knock it over.  

 

N

 

 

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1 hour ago, MtB said:

 

You should never use Brasso on an ex-working boat. 

 

It polishes off all the history.

 

I dont have an ex working boat and this boat will be full of history 

Edited by ditchcrawler
I like adding bits
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2 hours ago, BEngo said:

Modern Brasso is nothing like good as it was.  Try Peek.  It is much better at heavy tarnish, it don't  stink and it is a paste, so no spills when you knock it over.  

Thanks for the tip. I haven't knocked a full bottle of brasso over yet but have been feeling that it's only a matter of time. Paste sounds much more convenient. 

 

2 hours ago, MtB said:

 

You should never use Brasso on an ex-working boat. 

 

It polishes off all the history.

 

 

I see that point of view, but isn't it nice to have some that are kept in the sort of condition they would have been in during their working days? Isn't part of preserving history keeping it alive and in the present and not just a collection of mothballed artefacts? Not that it matters to me mind, with my brass tat from car boot sales in my noddy boat...

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Until I found Solvol Autosol (paste) I used to use Duraglit to polish alloy on the bikes (going back a bit). Peek is good.

Brasso is messy, and will 'settle' needing a few nuts in the tin and a lot of shaking. Don't use too big a nuts though, as the tin is thin and may puncture if shaken vigorously. There are liquids available, Shiny Sinks is one and Bar Keeps Friend, the latter also comes in powder form. Both can be used on wet brass, needs rinsing off. (Washes off hands easy too). Both contain oxalic acid which eats away the crud without eating your hands. And both will wash out of rags easily. Even so, I have always found Brasso and Duraglit to give the best finish. Bar Keeps Friend in powder form doesn't leave such a shine, but good for getting the worst of tarnish off.

 

ETA: 'Tug' Wilson down at Cassio used to swear by brick dust and lemon juice. A bit coarse is that.

Edited by Derek R.
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If you can find it, Amway Metal Cleaner is excellent stuff for taking off really heavy tarnish.  Water based paste, apply it, wait, wash off.  Rub  if you are in a hurry.  I think the active ingredient is oxalic acid.  It gets brass clean, not shiny.  You need to follow it with a polish, and the most important factor- Elbow Grease.

N

 

 

 

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spontex stainless steel kitchen scourers are good. Test on a non important part first. They do scratch a bit but nothing like the wire wool things. Good for getting proper tarnish off. Just use water and wood ash as a lubricant. 

 

Might not be suitable for people wanting a high polish. 

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I got as far as purchasing some 0000 wire wool to have a go at my mushrooms but it has sat in the cupboard for about 2 years now and the mushrooms are still heavily tarnished.

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7 hours ago, BEngo said:

If you can find it, Amway Metal Cleaner is excellent stuff for taking off really heavy tarnish.  Water based paste, apply it, wait, wash off.  Rub  if you are in a hurry.  I think the active ingredient is oxalic acid.  It gets brass clean, not shiny.  You need to follow it with a polish, and the most important factor- Elbow Grease.

N

 

 

 

That is also good stuff, much like Shiny Sinks. I did the Amway thing decades ago.

6 hours ago, Mike Tee said:

whatever product is your choice, use it with '0000' wire wool, fetches the tarnish off and doesn't scratch - great for cleaning the fire glass too.

I use stainless pot scrubbers on our fire glass dry. Works well. When cold, a little white vinegar helps break the carbon down. Not to be used when hot!

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7 hours ago, magnetman said:

spontex stainless steel kitchen scourers are good. Test on a non important part first. They do scratch a bit but nothing like the wire wool things. Good for getting proper tarnish off. Just use water and wood ash as a lubricant. 

 

Might not be suitable for people wanting a high polish. 

They are effective on the inside of stove glass doors too.

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I find those green pan scrubbers combined with brasso or t cut work quite well for getting bad tarnish off but the do leave a haze of fine scratches. A bit of hard work with brasso on a rag does polish them out though. 

 

Anyone got any tips for getting varnish off brass (my pet peeve). I've been meaning to try paint stripper but don't know what effect it would have on the brass. 

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45 minutes ago, Morris said:

Anyone got any tips for getting varnish off brass (my pet peeve). I've been meaning to try paint stripper but don't know what effect it would have on the brass. 

 

Acetone or cellulose thinners is what you need.

 

The 'varnish' on most brass is actually lacquer and dissolves orf easily with the right solvent. 

 

 

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11 hours ago, MtB said:

 

Acetone or cellulose thinners is what you need.

 

Acetone is commonly available as nail varnish remover, but the real stuff is better.

 

Cellulose thinners is cheapest as "gunwash". From your local vehicle refinish supplier.

 

Neither is a friendly substance, so do not use indoors (unless you have a fume cupboard)  and wear PPE including a mask suitable for organic vapour outside.

 

  Clear powder coating is better than INCRALAC lacquer, but you will have to take your shiny bits to the powder coater.

 

N

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