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Installing a WiFi router but I don't want it to run off an inverter, any ideas?


JohnJohnJohn

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Evening,

 

Sorry if this has already been covered but I haven't been able to find it! I've been struggling with internet, trying to stream NetFlic, or do video calls and I've decided to upgrade to a 5G wifi router. (Whole separate learning curve there!).

 

However, my real problem is that I'm currently running a low-usage 12v boat (one 'car socket' with a USB conversion, & a couple of plugs running from an inverter (+pumps etc.)). The router's come with a standard AC to 12v DC converter, so atm my 'quick fix' is to leave the inverter on and plug it in.

 

However, I was hoping someone may have had a similar dilemma, is there a way I can run it off a USB socket? Or will I have to bite the bullet and install a new 12v cigarette lighter? Should I be scared of running the inverter?

 

(Juice comes from 2 bog-standard 6v Trojans in series)

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12 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

You'll be able to find a suitable power supply on ebay with same specs as your main power supply, only its powered from 12v.... 

 

If the router needs 12V, it might be as simple as making up a lead with a cigar style plug on one end, and the appropriate plug for the router on the other. No conversion to 230V AC (and back) needed then.

 

In theory you could buy a 12V or USB powered 5G wifi router but they are expensive and it looks like you already have one anyway.

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I use one if these 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385220795026?

To power 12v stuff feeding through this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192509772119?

 

It means that the supply can be anywhere between 5v and 32v  and you still get 12v to the router.

 

I also have a USB to 12v adapter like this but it does need a 2.5amp usb socket and is only just up to the job

 https://amzn.eu/d/ihljb0j

 

 

Edited by Loddon
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8 minutes ago, Paul C said:

 

If the router needs 12V, it might be as simple as making up a lead with a cigar style plug on one end, and the appropriate plug for the router on the other. No conversion to 230V AC (and back) needed then.

 

In theory you could buy a 12V or USB powered 5G wifi router but they are expensive and it looks like you already have one anyway.

 

Whilst in theory a boat is 12v, when the alternator / solar is working the voltage can be 15v which many electronics do not like, and, will let out the magic smoke. You should use a 12v to 'stabilised 12v' supply. It plugs into a cigarette socket the same but makes sure that high voltages do not get thru.

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30 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Whilst in theory a boat is 12v, when the alternator / solar is working the voltage can be 15v which many electronics do not like, and, will let out the magic smoke. You should use a 12v to 'stabilised 12v' supply. It plugs into a cigarette socket the same but makes sure that high voltages do not get thru.

Throw in an equalisation charge, especially on trojan and rolls batteries, that value could easily exceed 15V,if one doesn't take precautions to protect loads. 

 

Buck converter works for me. 

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3 hours ago, Puffling said:

We need a The Three Johns revival!

Last time they came together was just before the wedding of Charles and Di. What better way to get the kids on the street and dancing to "Funk The Coronation" 😡?

I thought the were Volockies on the BCN

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9 hours ago, Puffling said:

We need a The Three Johns revival!

Last time they came together was just before the wedding of Charles and Di. What better way to get the kids on the street and dancing to "Funk The Coronation" 😡?

And I thought the three Johns were pump out,  cassette and composting

  • Haha 3
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11 hours ago, JohnJohnJohn said:

Thank you guys, I'd forgotten about stabilising it. I'll try installing a new line in that case! Thank you for the links for cables.

I use a USB to 12v cable to run my router. A Huawei. i previously connected it directly to the 12v supplyfor a year or so, without any of the problems suggest by Alan.

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On 28/04/2023 at 19:00, Paul C said:

 

If the router needs 12V, it might be as simple as making up a lead with a cigar style plug on one end, and the appropriate plug for the router on the other. No conversion to 230V AC (and back) needed then.

 

In theory you could buy a 12V or USB powered 5G wifi router but they are expensive and it looks like you already have one anyway.

 

5 hours ago, Richard10002 said:

I use a USB to 12v cable to run my router. A Huawei. i previously connected it directly to the 12v supplyfor a year or so, without any of the problems suggest by Alan.

 

That's my point, it may be okay with nothing more than the conversion lead. Hence the deliberate, previous, use of the word "might". I would be interested in any anecdotal stories of routers catching fire or going up in smoke, fed a 14.4V supply etc, as Alan suggests. I dare say they have their own voltage regulator on board.

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2 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

When an engineer designs a gadget that is to go in a vehicle, or boat to work off its nominal 12V supply, they will should make sure it can cope with the fluctuations, noise and voltage spikes that are known to exist in vehicle and boat 12V systems without being damaged. This is going to involve extra, or different components that cost more. When they design something like a router that works from a mains to 12V power brick, they will assume that the 12V from a modern power brick is pretty clean and steady with no major fluctuations, noise, or voltage spikes, so won't include any protective circuitry in the router. No need and excess cost in what is a cost sensitive gadget that is going to be made in the hundreds of thousands, or millions. There will likely be regulators to take the 12V down to lower voltages, like 5, or 3.3V, for some internal circuitry, which will give some protection for them.

As @Paul C say, you may get away with running such a router for a long time connected directly to boat nominal 12V, or you may not. If you are lucky, it will work fine till it is time to upgrade years later. Some people are lucky and will tell you that connecting direct is fine. They are going on their own direct experience, but a sample size of one, with a different boat and a different router. Even if it is the same router model, natural variations in components can make one more sensitive to power supply than another. If you are unlucky, all the magic smoke may escape from the router in only a few days, or weeks. It is all down to the internal circuitry of the router and the oddities of your boat, none of which you have any control over, or insight in to. A 12V to 12V smooth converter removes that gamble for not a lot of money. Why take it?

Jen

As always, a very complete assessment of the situation from @Jen-in-Wellies

 

Since more than a few of my boat items (modem, monitor, various legacy computer portable hard drives)  run from "power brick replacement" 12v, I made a second circuit with a larger regulator (I went with 10A) feeding UK 5A sockets installed in strategic places. My unregulated 12V supply from the domestic batteries comes out to decent waterproof connectors, not ghastly cigar lighter sockets.

 

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Completely agree, the risk of burning it out just isn't worth it. It does say that input can range from 9v to 30v but since it also came with a 12v plug, it probably prefers that.

 

I like the idea of a bank of 12v plugs! I may give that a shot actually. I know I should but I just don't trust using the inverter. I had a bad experience with a dodgy one a while back and it just completely burnt out my batteries.

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