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How to age a windlass


Annie cariad

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As has been said, pictures are needed. The whole windlass thing has been on my mind for some time, there seems to be a dearth of anything decent available these days. Admittedly, I’m a dyed in the wool traditionalist with a few proper taper headed ones, mostly acquired years ago, a couple of historics more years than I care to remember. 
 
A while back, a Facebook post and photo showed wear to the corners of a paddle spindle, the poster laying the blame on the modern parallel plate things with laser cut holes. These only give minimal contact with the spindle and I think would easily slip. Curious, I looked online and found only those and some aluminium headed ones available from chandleries. The aluminium headed one seemed to have a couple of holes without a taper, again making for a poor fit. Both types seem to be in common use by boaters and volunteers alike. The exception if you can source one are the Dunton windlass, a very different kettle of fish.

 

I find it disheartening in this day and age that this situation persists, an idea shared by my fellow old timers. I suspect that the cost of a decent forged or cast windlass with a proper tapered shank and handle set at less than 90 degrees would put many boaters off buying one. 
A shame. What think you?

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7 minutes ago, dave moore said:

As has been said, pictures are needed. The whole windlass thing has been on my mind for some time, there seems to be a dearth of anything decent available these days. Admittedly, I’m a dyed in the wool traditionalist with a few proper taper headed ones, mostly acquired years ago, a couple of historics more years than I care to remember. 
 
A while back, a Facebook post and photo showed wear to the corners of a paddle spindle, the poster laying the blame on the modern parallel plate things with laser cut holes. These only give minimal contact with the spindle and I think would easily slip. Curious, I looked online and found only those and some aluminium headed ones available from chandleries. The aluminium headed one seemed to have a couple of holes without a taper, again making for a poor fit. Both types seem to be in common use by boaters and volunteers alike. The exception if you can source one are the Dunton windlass, a very different kettle of fish.

 

I find it disheartening in this day and age that this situation persists, an idea shared by my fellow old timers. I suspect that the cost of a decent forged or cast windlass with a proper tapered shank and handle set at less than 90 degrees would put many boaters off buying one. 
A shame. What think you?

I got my Dunton from eBay, it is rather light, but certainly a good fit on spindles.

 

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17 minutes ago, dave moore said:

As has been said, pictures are needed. The whole windlass thing has been on my mind for some time, there seems to be a dearth of anything decent available these days. Admittedly, I’m a dyed in the wool traditionalist with a few proper taper headed ones, mostly acquired years ago, a couple of historics more years than I care to remember. 
 
A while back, a Facebook post and photo showed wear to the corners of a paddle spindle, the poster laying the blame on the modern parallel plate things with laser cut holes. These only give minimal contact with the spindle and I think would easily slip. Curious, I looked online and found only those and some aluminium headed ones available from chandleries. The aluminium headed one seemed to have a couple of holes without a taper, again making for a poor fit. Both types seem to be in common use by boaters and volunteers alike. The exception if you can source one are the Dunton windlass, a very different kettle of fish.

 

I find it disheartening in this day and age that this situation persists, an idea shared by my fellow old timers. I suspect that the cost of a decent forged or cast windlass with a proper tapered shank and handle set at less than 90 degrees would put many boaters off buying one. 
A shame. What think you?

Totally agree Dave, trying to find a nicely weighted, tapered single headed windlass today is difficult.  I can't stand modern double headed windlasses with square holes.

 

I have a couple of nice windlasses that I have acquired and a recently purchased Dunton which is ok.

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Googling images there seems not to be a picture of what I thought were a common windless like what I use.

It’s a double headed one, with what I’m sure are tapered holes.

With a sleeve over handle.

Suits me sir.

 

 

 

(please don’t miss off the ‘c’ on canal when googling for canal windless, comes up with some very different ideas)
 

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32 minutes ago, Goliath said:

Googling images there seems not to be a picture of what I thought were a common windless like what I use.

It’s a double headed one, with what I’m sure are tapered holes.

With a sleeve over handle.

Suits me sir.

 

(please don’t miss off the ‘c’ on canal when googling for canal windless, comes up with some very different ideas)
 

 

https://eveningharold.com/local-news/local/vandals-target-village-anal-museum-sign/

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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

I thought the heads on them were tapered,

The heads on ours are definitely tapered. I know because I've measured them. I have seen countless people using the large holes of a normal windlass

 

9E6A8310-E8E8-4315-B70C-43927BBAE802.jpeg

 

on a small spindle. I feel this causes more damage to the spindle than using the small holes on one of these.

 

s-l500.jpg

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2 hours ago, Alway Swilby said:

The heads on ours are definitely tapered. I know because I've measured them. I have seen countless people using the large holes of a normal windlass

 

9E6A8310-E8E8-4315-B70C-43927BBAE802.jpeg

 

on a small spindle. I feel this causes more damage to the spindle than using the small holes on one of these.

 

s-l500.jpg

I know the heads on the double above are tapered

are you saying the holes on the odd looking thing below are tapered too?

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37 minutes ago, Goliath said:

I know the heads on the double above are tapered

are you saying the holes on the odd looking thing below are tapered too?

Yes, on the smaller holes for the small spindles.

The larger holes aren't tapered but neither are the large spindles they fit on.

 

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