Delta 30 output shaft oil seal replacement

[David Mutch]

Hi all. I have a leak from round the output shaft on my Delta 30 gearbox. The manual seems to suggest that to replace the oil seal, the box needs to come out and be pretty much fully dismantled. Is this really necessary just to change the oil seal, and if so, can anyone provide a bit more detail than the manual does on how to do the job? Thanks 🙂

[Tracy D'arth]

24 minutes ago, David Mutch said:

Hi all. I have a leak from round the output shaft on my Delta 30 gearbox. The manual seems to suggest that to replace the oil seal, the box needs to come out and be pretty much fully dismantled. Is this really necessary just to change the oil seal, and if so, can anyone provide a bit more detail than the manual does on how to do the job? Thanks 🙂

You have to take the output shaft out to change the seal or bearing so, yes the box has to come apart.

The workshop manual is here  https://www.prm-newage.com/media/File/delta man.pdf.

[David Mutch]

On 16/04/2023 at 16:17, Tracy D'arth said:

You have to take the output shaft out to change the seal or bearing so, yes the box has to come apart.

The workshop manual is here  https://www.prm-newage.com/media/File/delta man.pdf

 

Ah well. Guess I'll have to do that then. Thanks 

[Steve56]

It is possible to change the seal without stripping the box. But you will have to remove the box from the engine. Once the box is removed remove the 4 bolts on the oil seal carrier. Then remove the special nut from the opposite end of the output shaft. You can now support the gearbox on blocks with the output flange lower most. Using a brass drift you can now knock the shaft out. This allows the seal to be changed. Once done reassemble in reverse order.

[David Mutch]

16 hours ago, Steve56 said:

It is possible to change the seal without stripping the box. But you will have to remove the box from the engine. Once the box is removed remove the 4 bolts on the oil seal carrier. Then remove the special nut from the opposite end of the output shaft. You can now support the gearbox on blocks with the output flange lower most. Using a brass drift you can now knock the shaft out. This allows the seal to be changed. Once done reassemble in reverse order.

Thanks! I was hoping that might be possible. I'll certainly have a look at doing that. Sounds closer to my skill level! 

[David Mutch]

17 hours ago, Steve56 said:

It is possible to change the seal without stripping the box. But you will have to remove the box from the engine. Once the box is removed remove the 4 bolts on the oil seal carrier. Then remove the special nut from the opposite end of the output shaft. You can now support the gearbox on blocks with the output flange lower most. Using a brass drift you can now knock the shaft out. This allows the seal to be changed. Once done reassemble in reverse order.

Just looking at the manual, it looks like there's a circlip that goes round the output shaft. Would that not prevent you from driving the shaft out, or am I misunderstanding its purpose?

4 minutes ago, David Mutch said:

Just looking at the manual, it looks like there's a circlip that goes round the output shaft. Would that not prevent you from driving the shaft out, or am I misunderstanding its purpose?

It pays to read the manual sometimes! I assumed the box needed dismantling because in the section called 'Servicing the output shaft assembly ', it says you have to remove the input and layshaft assemblies as per section 9.4. What I didn't spot is that the first instruction there is to remove the output shaft exactly as @Steve56 describes! D'Oh! Thanks Steve!

[Tony Brooks]

FWIW that rather poor illustration looks like an internal circlip that is stopping the bearing from moving back out of the housing. The quality of the drawing makes it easy to confuse it with an external circlip on the shaft if you are not familiar with the guts of the box.

[David Mutch]

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

FWIW that rather poor illustration looks like an internal circlip that is stopping the bearing from moving back out of the housing. The quality of the drawing makes it easy to confuse it with an external circlip on the shaft if you are not familiar with the guts of the box.

Thanks. That makes sense 🙂

Can anyone help identify the correct oil seal? Google doesn't immediately come up with a definitive answer.

[Tony Brooks]

if I did not want to get it from PRM I would take the OD, ID (shaft OD) and thickness to a local bearing or engineering suppliers. They should match it up. E.g. Bearings Plus at Trowbridge

[David Mutch]

On 21/04/2023 at 08:18, Tony Brooks said:

if I did not want to get it from PRM I would take the OD, ID (shaft OD) and thickness to a local bearing or engineering suppliers. They should match it up. E.g. Bearings Plus at Trowbridge

Thanks. I've emailed PRM, but will do that if I get no joy from them. Am I to take it from your recommendation that you're somewhere nearby, or did you just see where I was on my profile?

[Tony Brooks]

45 minutes ago, David Mutch said:

Thanks. I've emailed PRM, but will do that if I get no joy from them. Am I to take it from your recommendation that you're somewhere nearby, or did you just see where I was on my profile?

 

I took it from your profile and googled Bearing and Engineers supplies near Wiltshire. I am in Reading and would use Brammer

Warning, that bearing is unlikely to be an ordinary ball bearing because it has to transfer prop thrust in both directions from the shaft to the case and thus the engine mounts and to the hull.

 

If you are going to source it from a local supplier, you had best take the old bearing along as a pattern.

Edited April 22, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[Tracy D'arth]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I took it from your profile and googled Bearing and Engineers supplies near Wiltshire. I am in Reading and would use Brammer

Warning, that bearing is unlikely to be an ordinary ball bearing because it has to transfer prop thrust in both directions from the shaft to the case and thus the engine mounts and to the hull.

 

If you are going to source it from a local supplier, you had best take the old bearing along as a pattern.

I thought he only wanted a lip seal?  Oil seal usually have the size embossed on them, 3 numbers, Outside Dimension ,Inside Dimension, and Thickness.

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

I thought he only wanted a lip seal?  Oil seal usually have the size embossed on them, 3 numbers, Outside Dimension ,Inside Dimension, and Thickness.

 

Ah, yes. I forgot. So no needs to take the old one

[David Mutch]

I believe the 150D is the successor to the Delta 30. It looks identical. Does anyone happen to know if the oil seal for the 150D will work with the Delta 30?

[David Mutch]

In case anyone else has this problem, thought I'd report that I tried the usual suspects: ASAP, Midland, etc., but they could only provide a full seal kit for between £30 and £50. So, I contacted PRM (had to call in the end as they didn't answer emails), who put me on to a company called Lancing Marine. They were able to supply a seal on its own, for the princely sum of £7+p&p. Going to try fitting it next week, so look out for a post on how to sleeve an output shaft 😜

[Tracy D'arth]

13 hours ago, David Mutch said:

In case anyone else has this problem, thought I'd report that I tried the usual suspects: ASAP, Midland, etc., but they could only provide a full seal kit for between £30 and £50. So, I contacted PRM (had to call in the end as they didn't answer emails), who put me on to a company called Lancing Marine. They were able to supply a seal on its own, for the princely sum of £7+p&p. Going to try fitting it next week, so look out for a post on how to sleeve an output shaft 😜

If you had gone to a bearing supplier it may have been about 70p.

[David Mutch]

8 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If you had gone to a bearing supplier it may have been about 70p.

But would they have known what I needed?

[Tracy D'arth]

5 minutes ago, David Mutch said:

But would they have known what I needed?

If you took the old seal or the numbers, yes.

[Tony Brooks]

36 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If you took the old seal or the numbers, yes.

or the dimensions I listed at the beginning.

[David Mutch]

Both would have required removing the box before getting the part. Not really an option for a continuous cruiser, so I'm satisfied that I'm getting good value, all told 🙂

[David Mutch]

Any reason the engine can't be run with the gearbox off? (Just in case I can't get it all back together in a day and need to charge the batteries)

[Tony Brooks]

As long as the rear feet are still attached to the beds none at all, just keep everything clear of the open face of the drive plate.

 

Edited to add: you will need to make sure gearbox oil cooler water connections are still attached, or the hoses joined, otherwise the engine would boil (assuming dry exhaust, tank/keel cooled).

Edited May 8, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[David Mutch]

19 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

As long as the rear feet are still attached to the beds none at all, just keep everything clear of the open face of the drive plate.

Thanks Tony!

[Tony Brooks]

6 minutes ago, David Mutch said:

Thanks Tony!

see my edit above please

[David Mutch]

5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

see my edit above please

Doesn't look like it's necessary to disconnect the water side of the oil cooler in my case, so hopefully won't be a problem, but thanks for the heads up 🙂