Jump to content

Which windlass is best?


LadyG

Featured Posts

I use centre lines that are too short to reach the propellor on a 35’ boat.

 

That’s how they were configured when I bought the boat and I got used to them until one broke 4 or 5 years later.

 

I sourced a replacement from the collection of lines in the bow locker but the replacement was longer and did reach the prop. It took just days of boating for the inevitable to happen when the steerer tried to unnecessarily and badly throw the line to shore.

 

Now I’ve replaced both with new short lines and that’s how they’ll stay. I’ve single handed 1,000+ locks with them.

 

And stern line always coiled neatly on the slide - ready to deploy to either dolly as required. Windlass usually sits on top. That’s something I’ve learnt too.

 

I dislike finding a boat that has a stern line really tightly fixed to one dolly, particularly if the boat has a taff rail and worse a windshield (or whatever the proper name is for the bottom bit of a tonneau cover) around the stern.

Edited by Captain Pegg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like a nice long centre line so it can reach around a lock bollard and back to me at the stern of the boat or be long enough to keep hold of and walk across the bottom gates of a lock when I've pulled the boat out of a lock and closing the gates.  I don't want to be stretching with a short line whilst stepping across an open gate.

I have had occasion to tie my two centre lines together to double the length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tacet said:

And what is that we can see on the inside dolly?  Maybe it's a strap and not a line? 

If you study the photo closely the line goes from the dolly round the back of the chimney then coiled on the slide, like this.

Alf Lowe.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, MtB said:

Fascinating. In 45 years of boating I've never found a need to throw a centreline ashore with the boat in gear. 

 

 

In 45 years of boating I've never found a need to fall in the cut. Doesn't mean it never happens though... 😉

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Captain Pegg said:

use centre lines that are too short to reach the propellor on a 35’ boat.

 

That’s how they were configured when I bought the boat and I got used to them until one broke 4 or 5 years later.

 

I sourced a replacement from the collection of lines in the bow locker but the replacement was longer and did reach the prop. It took just days of boating for the inevitable to happen when the steerer tried to unnecessarily and badly throw the line to shore.

Same.

I keep them short after winding one around the prop.

42 minutes ago, Rob-M said:

I have had occasion to tie my two centre lines together to double the length.

I’ll do that on occasion or swop for longer from the locker.

 

 

17 minutes ago, MtB said:

Fascinating. In 45 years of boating I've never found a need to throw a centreline ashore with the boat in gear. 


Yes, if you steer the boat properly there’s rarely a need to throw a line to the bank,

simply step off with it,

Edited by Goliath
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem though is they slip down and wear the spindle. A longer windlsss won’t do that so readily and unlike the one pictured the wear is not focussed intensely on one area .


What I’d the origin of this sort of iron windlass?  My family always referred to them as “Leeds and Liverpool lock keys”.

They are brilliant for stubborn paddles we used to get there. only good for using with gloves though😂 
Very long though around 15 inches. 
 

 

F9BE0D3D-2EBC-4EE7-95AF-DB42312101DD.jpeg


 

941A7F62-DE87-4CE8-B5D1-CDEB7F6A5ACE.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Rob-M said:

I like a nice long centre line so it can reach around a lock bollard and back to me at the stern of the boat or be long enough to keep hold of and walk across the bottom gates of a lock when I've pulled the boat out of a lock and closing the gates.  I don't want to be stretching with a short line whilst stepping across an open gate.

I have had occasion to tie my two centre lines together to double the length.

 

By choice I will motor out of a lock and then find I can generally stop the boat below the lock and return to shut the gates. I don't like wielding a shaft to do that. If I feel the boat won't stay in position - I have heard stories of boats being carried away on by-washes in such instances - then I can stick the stern line on a dolly. That's something I often do on GU locks to use the strapping posts outside the lock.

 

The other week I descended the Cheshire locks on a boat that wasn't configured for re-boarding via the lock ladder so I hauled it out of every lock from the tail bridge. I found I had time to release the line once the centre of the boat reached the bridge and after the stern had passed the gates close them and then walk down the steps and re-board at the stern without the boat stopping.

 

1 hour ago, MtB said:

Fascinating. In 45 years of boating I've never found a need to throw a centreline ashore with the boat in gear. 

 

 

 

Which is fine if you always boat on your own like some sort of Billy No-mates. Not everyone else realises that. Throwing a centre line is fairly likely to fail anyway. I upset a bankside expert a couple of weeks back by refusing to throw the centre line to him as he instructed.

Edited by Captain Pegg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, MtB said:

 

The same applies to centre lines. People are always saying centre lines should be short enough not to reach the propeller. This is stoopid as they are then too short to be of much use.  Better, have them a useful length and don't drop them in the water.

 

Oddly, no-one ever seem to propose the 'short enough not to reach the prop' argument to stern lines...

 

Perhaps on the basis that centre lines are permanently attached (and easily knock overboard) whilst stern ones should be removed unless actually alongside.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mike Todd said:

Perhaps on the basis that centre lines are permanently attached (and easily knock overboard) whilst stern ones should be removed unless actually alongside.

My centre lines, which are long enough to reach the prop as I've a short boat, just lie along the cabin top and curl up on the cruiser deck so they can't get knocked into the wet. The stern line lies curled up beside them. Possibly the advantage of a cruiser deck rather than trad.

I've only got one round the prop once, while I did keep them on the roof many years ago, and it was, if course, midwinter, ice on the canal and I could only saw at the damn thing for about ten seconds before my hand went numb. You only do these things once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

My centre lines, which are long enough to reach the prop as I've a short boat, just lie along the cabin top and curl up on the cruiser deck so they can't get knocked into the wet. The stern line lies curled up beside them. Possibly the advantage of a cruiser deck rather than trad.

I've only got one round the prop once, while I did keep them on the roof many years ago, and it was, if course, midwinter, ice on the canal and I could only saw at the damn thing for about ten seconds before my hand went numb. You only do these things once.

 

There are precisely zero advantages of a cruiser stern (or a semi-trad) over a trad when considering it purely from the point of view of skippering the boat.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite an unusual windlass as well. 

 

I'm afraid I was guilty of throwing one of those in the cut as found it too heavy ! Assuming it is the bronze version not the alloy one. 

 

Probably should have kept it really as they are rare beasts. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Ken X said:

As hirers we tend to end up with semi-trad sterns so arrange our rope like this, Two centre lines at sides and stern line in the centre.  Works for us but always ready to learn.

 

CanalworldRopeStowage.thumb.jpg.a60a4e0c6190ce18e6b8f2b231fae501.jpg

 

Nothing wrong with that but on a semi-trad it's all a few feet away from you. Hence you have to reach for the centre line and the mug of tea. When I skipper a semi-trad I'll run the centre line(s) down to onto the seats but that may not be OK if you aren't on your own. In which case you may have to avoid wrapping your centre line around someone's neck.

 

You do at least look less a lemon stood on a semi-trad. But you're still cold.

 

12 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

Can just about see our centre lines coiled either side of hatch, stern line is coiled in a basket in the engine room and brought out when mooring.

 

I do like @Rob-M’s mat though :) 

 

 

81340DC9-121E-4890-9904-103E8AED3D82.jpeg

 

Nice clear roof. Not tempted to put the centre lines through the fairleads? I guess you've nothing much to catch them on.

Edited by Captain Pegg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going to stick my head above the parapet here:

 

The rope loop where the power cable and mooring line are is where I stow the stern line when cruising.

Handy to get hold of when mooring.

Never had any issues in all the years I have owned the boat.

DSCF4239.JPG

Edited by Ray T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, magnetman said:

Quite an unusual windlass as well. 

 

I'm afraid I was guilty of throwing one of those in the cut as found it too heavy ! Assuming it is the bronze version not the alloy one. 

 

Probably should have kept it really as they are rare beasts. 

Yes it is heavy bronze,  I have a light weight Dunton as well plus a few others but the bronze one is my favourite.

 

11 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

Can just about see our centre lines coiled either side of hatch, stern line is coiled in a basket in the engine room and brought out when mooring.

 

I do like @Rob-M’s mat though :) 

 

 

81340DC9-121E-4890-9904-103E8AED3D82.jpeg

I need to make a larger mat, as the windlass sometimes slips off the edge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.