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Which windlass is best?


LadyG

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1 minute ago, Rob-M said:

I need to make a larger mat, as the windlass sometimes slips off the edge.

 

One about the same size as that rope if it were coiled up tight should do the trick.

 

I coil my stern line up tight and flat because it's less of a tripping/slipping hazard when I go via the roof. I kind of use it as a kneeling mat for my slightly knackered and aging knees.

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5 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:

Nice clear roof. Not tempted to put the centre lines through the fairleads? I guess you've nothing much to catch them on.

Force of habit from the shareboat as they were loose and not well attached due to historic abuse.

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Just now, Jon57 said:

He's in a narrow single lock. He doesn't need it? 

If someone steps onto the gunnel on that side and reaches to hold onto the handrail they could grab the loose object and end up swimming.  Never put things like this beside handrails. 

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Just now, Captain Pegg said:

 

One about the same size as that rope if it were coiled up tight should do the trick.

 

I coil my stern line up tight and flat because it's less of a tripping/slipping hazard when I go via the roof. I kind of use it as a kneeling mat for my slightly knackered and aging knees.

I've got 30m of white cotton line ready to make one but I've had it for about a year and not done it yet. 

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Just now, magnetman said:

If someone steps onto the gunnel on that side and reaches to hold onto the handrail they could grab the loose object and end up swimming.  Never put things like this beside handrails. 

No need for the handspike to be out. Unless the natives are unfriendly. 😁

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4 minutes ago, magnetman said:

If someone steps onto the gunnel on that side and reaches to hold onto the handrail they could grab the loose object and end up swimming.  Never put things like this beside handrails. 

Fair point on the handspike, can see the problem with grabbing the handrail.  Every days a school day.🙂  We are also guilty of chucking the fenders inside the handrail when cruising so may remove completely, usually have to retie the rope anyway to suit the new bank.  Always good to learn from others mistakes.😀

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Best way to learn. We have learnt many things by chatting to other boaters and passed on a few of our techniques. Again as hirers we are always on a new boat and try to go on a new bit of water at some point during each trip so hints from the locals are very useful. Keeps you sharp. 🙂

 

 

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13 hours ago, Rob-M said:

 

I need to make a larger mat, as the windlass sometimes slips off the edge.

For years I've always had a suitably sized piece of carpet tile on the rear hatch when cruising - takes multiple windlass's and the cruising guide / glasses etc won't slip off - then if it rains just turn it over. When not cruising it sits by the rear step as a doormat!

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22 hours ago, Ray T said:

Going to stick my head above the parapet here:

 

The rope loop where the power cable and mooring line are is where I stow the stern line when cruising.

Handy to get hold of when mooring.

Never had any issues in all the years I have owned the boat.

DSCF4239.JPG

 

I do something similar with the stern line and have not had it accidentally fall into the cut in nearly 50 years boating.

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One hopes the power cable is unplugged before leaving. 

 

Also that is an incredibly short and presumably decorative tiller bar. 

 

 

Is it a shell casing? Doesn't look quite right to be a real one. 

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1 hour ago, Ray T said:

The main aim was to make a decorative tiller with pin as a gift to Mike Humphris for an anniversary to remind him of his boating days and I had a length left over.

 

 

You are a very kind and thoughtful man, Ray.

 

 

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It is a bit bigger and heavier than a usual windlass but I find the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. There is another ratchet windlass on  the market which is huge and very heavy and you would almost need a  wheelbarrow to take it from lock to lock. That wasn't what you saw by any chance? 

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1 minute ago, haggis said:

It is a bit bigger and heavier than a usual windlass but I find the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. There is another ratchet windlass on  the market which is huge and very heavy and you would almost need a  wheelbarrow to take it from lock to lock. That wasn't what you saw by any chance? 


It could have been. I didn’t know there were two versions.

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To me they look like someone was given a comprehensive list of what a windlass needed to do.

The chunky one ticked everything on the list and was the working prototype, then the top one was the first revision after a focus group, testing and marketing :D 

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I've never used one but the GoWindlass does look like a decent bit of engineering design -- short throw for when you need it (clearance/easy paddle), longer throw for when you need that (longer throw/stiffer paddle), ratchet for when you need that (stiff paddle with short clearance). About 1kg is heavier than a standard steel windlass but not massively so. But as well as costing £70 they're out of stock... 😞

Edited by IanD
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I noted someone above said that the GoWindlass doesn’t fit the large square spindles on the hydraulic kit. That would also extend to the geared GU locks on the Birmingham line but that’s where I saw the Lockmaster in use.

 

But isn’t using a ratcheted windlass on any of these locks making it harder rather than easier?

 

The only really hard paddles are conventional top gate ground paddles.

Edited by Captain Pegg
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3 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:

I noted someone above said that the GoWindlass doesn’t fit the large square spindles on the hydraulic kit. That would also extend to the geared GU locks on the Birmingham line but that’s where I saw the Lockmaster in use.

 

But isn’t using a ratcheted windlass on any of these locks making it harder rather than easier?

 

The only really hard paddles are conventional top gate ground paddles.

 

They're often the worst, but I've come across some horribly stiff bottom paddles too, both gate and ground.

 

Of course the hydraulic paddle gear needs very little effort but a shedload of turns, a small conventional windlass will do just fine for this (but it means you need one).

Edited by IanD
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