Jump to content

what wood would to use in a bilge area.


Featured Posts

what type of wood to use in the bilge area?

 

fuel pipes are currently secured to a bit of ply which is delaminating and rotting..

 

its a semi trad stern without a a pram hood, so does get a little damp in the heavy rain

 

id like to replace it all.

 

cheers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Buffalo board?

i deal with buffalo board quite regularly, and have several off cuts. wouldn't expect it to last more than a few years though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You want something ideally that a proper timber yard may keep- Iroko or my second choice would be Sapele. Not stupidly expensive, attainable and will last.

Assuming this is more battens than decking..

Edited by PaulJ
  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, PaulJ said:

You want something ideally that a proper timber yard may keep- Iroko or my second choice would be Sapele. Not stupidly expensive, attainable and will last.

Assuming this is more battens than decking..

indeed, 

 

itll just be stuck to the swim area and have fuel pipe clipped to the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A better solution would be to get some steel angle about 25 mm x 25mm stitch   welded  onto the swim and drill and tap that for the pipe clips.  Paint it and forget it. 

 

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

How about a bit of recycled plastic gravel board. won't rot and should accept screws well enough.

Now that's not a bad idea. 

 

 

2 minutes ago, BEngo said:

A better solution would be to get some steel angle about 25 mm x 25mm stitch   welded  onto the swim and drill and tap that for the pipe clips.  Paint it and forget it. 

 

N

I only have a very large mig welder, much to big to drag to the towpath. And as truck mechanic I refuse to pay anyone to do work, that's I can do myself. haha

But it's not a bad idea. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A length of square plastic drain pipe stuck down with polyurethane sealant might work. Easy to drill for clips. 

 

Cheap at Wickes. 

You could always cut it lengthways and just make it into a channel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

A bit of second-hand teak if you can find it and afford it. Otherwise, mahogany. I would say oak but have a feeling it rots badly in fresh water, I will let the carpenters confirm or deny that.

 

Oak should be fine. Alder is an interesting one, it lasts forever if its wet, but not if it dries out, so might be good if your bilge is always full of water 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you use Marine ply?  I used marine ply for the back board when I put up a basketball net in our back garden for our children. Some 30 years later it is still intact with no sign of delamination  despite being in an exposed location on top of a pole and never having had any maintenance other than its initial coat of paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, dmr said:

 

Oak should be fine. Alder is an interesting one, it lasts forever if its wet, but not if it dries out, so might be good if your bilge is always full of water 😀

well, the plan is to keep it dry. i dont like a dirty bilge,

1 minute ago, Ronaldo47 said:

Did you use Marine ply?  I used marine ply for the back board when I put up a basketball net in our back garden for our children. Some 30 years later it is still intact with no sign of delamination  despite being in an exposed location on top of a pole and never having had any maintenance other than its initial coat of paint.

ive had the boat, just under a year and decided the bilge need a clean and coat of paint, may aswell replace the delaminating boards 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ronaldo47 said:

Did you use Marine ply?  I used marine ply for the back board when I put up a basketball net in our back garden for our children. Some 30 years later it is still intact with no sign of delamination  despite being in an exposed location on top of a pole and never having had any maintenance other than its initial coat of paint.

Thirty years ago marine ply was water resistant, nowadays a lot of this is fudged marine p!y. So you need to source from a good source.

I would not use oak as it stains and there are other woods. It is not used in boatbuilding it's not flexible of course.

Any end grain should be sealed with clear epoxy, its better than yacht varnish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Thirty years ago marine ply was water resistant, nowadays a lot of this is fudged marine p!y. So you need to source from a good source.

I would not use oak as it stains and there are other woods. It is not used in boatbuilding it's not flexible of course.

Any end grain should be sealed with clear epoxy, its better than yacht varnish.

 

Oak is often used as the bearers for rigidly mounted/vintage engines 😀.   but otherwise you are correct, oak does not get on well with steel due to its acid content, the oak stains black and the steel corrodes surprisingly quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oak certainly is used in boatbuilding !

 

Oak trees are forced to grow in a bent shape to produce grown oak frames.

 

These people use them 

 

https://westcountrycutters.co.uk/construction/

 

 

I think the stern section on wooden narrow boats might be oak as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, magnetman said:

Oak certainly is used in boatbuilding !

 

Oak trees are forced to grow in a bent shape to produce grown oak frames.

 

These people use them 

 

https://westcountrycutters.co.uk/construction/

 

 

I think the stern section on wooden narrow boats might be oak as well. 

 

"mahogany on oak" was quite a common construction, including sailing boats 😀.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My late brother-in-law's Old Gaffer that he had imported into France from the USA, was constructed from oak.  In view of its age, before he had it shipped over, on his surveyor's advice, he had  Brooklyn Dockyard, that was dealing with its sale and shipping,  replace all the gunmetal woodscrews that held it together,  by slightly larger ones.  Apparently this is good practice  for this sort of construction, given the reactive nature of oak, even when gunmetal fixings are used.

Edited by Ronaldo47
typos
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wooden craft quite often need refastening.  The 45ft MFV I was responsible for on the early 90's was refastened  in Chichester basin because the screws wre getting quite dezincified.  They also renewed the injector pipes on the the twin Foden FD6's which drove it.  Pity they did not check the new pipes were not chafing. Bigger pity I didn't look more closely at the new pipes. All the way from The Needles to Plymouth in half a gale,  on one donk.

 

N

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.