Rocker Oilers

[dave moore]

I have original J3 workshop manuals. Somewhere down your way is Phil Robbins , an engineer with an interest in Kelvins. I’ll try and dig out more info for you. Dick Goble was the man but I think he’s more or less finished now.

[Floaty Me Boaty]

27 minutes ago, dave moore said:

I have original J3 workshop manuals. Somewhere down your way is Phil Robbins , an engineer with an interest in Kelvins. I’ll try and dig out more info for you. Dick Goble was the man but I think he’s more or less finished now.

Thanks  Dave. Very much appreciated.

28 minutes ago, BEngo said:

The workshop manual, such as it is, is called  The Running and Repair of the Kelvin Model J.  Book no 18 IIRC when it was available from the factory.  Original copies change hands for good money.

 

There are copies of the handbook and the spares list, which is essentially an exploded diagram of the Model K, on line.  Try Mike Skyners Kelvin web site.  skynet.org or similar.

 

The engine is really simple to understand.  After all it was designed to be maintained by fisherfolk.  So the best thing is to learn to DIY. Look after it and a 'J' will give years of service. 

Looking after it means oil it daily, keep a spanner on the assorted nuts  especially the engine feet, and an oily rag to hand, keep the oil level right and change the engine and gearbox oil every 200 hours or so. Change the water pump packing if/when it leaks too much and that is about it.

 

Talk to other Kelvin owners.  We are fill of hints, tips and hard-won experience 

 

N

 

 

 

 

 

I did download the info you mentioned and found it very informative. 

Was hoping there was a manual around to purchase.

Thanks anyway.

[BEngo]

Further to my last:  A chap called Kevin Whittle  aka The Oil Engine Company did write a 'how to' book describing the rebuilding  of a J ( it would work for a  K too ).  It was quite detailed and as near as I have seen to a conventional workshop manual.   I don't have a copy, and cannot remember its title but I dare say there are a few out there.  He also wrote an A to Z of marine engines.

 

N

 

ETA: the book title is " The Book of the Model J Kelvin."  by Kevin Whittle.

 

 

Edited March 21 by BEngo
Add a title

[koukouvagia]

The late Kevin Whittle also produced a regular magazine called the Kelvin Register, later renamed The Kelvin and Vintage Marine Engine.  He published around 150 editions and they are packed with advice and tips.  I bet someone has a set of these lurking in a shed that they might be willing to part with. 

I've just had a look online to see if the book mentioned by BEngo is available.  One recently for sale was asking silly money.  

 

[darren620]

i'm hoping people dont mind me sort of hijacking this thread. but its on the same(ish) subject. 

 

recently one of the rocker oilers didnt empty during the day. i took the wick out and fiddled and prodded. rebent it and pushed it into the holes. another day went and it didnt empty. so i took out the other one and carefuly copied the bend. putting them both back in carefully. 

 

now. i think its laughing at me. the original not emptying one emptied fine and the copied one now doesnt empty......... 

 

is there a "method" to these things? it looks like simple old pipe cleaners bent to form a shape and enable a slow wicking of oil. 

 

if someone could point me in a direction to get them both emptying again id be very grateful. 

 

thanks in advance. 

Edited August 22 by darren620
spelling

[BEngo]

 

The oil route from well to rocker is a bit convoluted and involves an oil passage in the gasket below the oil well.  See the picture in the parts list.   It gets blocked with dust easily.

 

Remove the rocker covers.

 

Get a can  of air duster  with the narrow extra spout. ( SCREWFIX).  Use it to blow out the two oil holes in each rocker cover, preferably from the inside.  Alternatively remove the  oil wells from the rocker covers ( two screws each)  and visually check the holes are all clear.  You will need new gaskets.to refit.  Also check the air holes somewhere on the corner of the brass oil well caps are clear.  They are easily bunged up with Brasso and then the air can't get in, so the syphon fails.  Poke them out with a bit of wire.

 

Then replace the pipe cleaners, either with new ones, ( half a pipe cleaner per hole, available on line or even from a local tabacconist) or by making a proper worsted trimming.  I use some knitting wool scrounged off 'er indoors and a strand of fine copper wire from some flexible cable  (not twin and earth) . It needs about 2 strands of something called 2-ply and it needs to be real wool not an artificial substitute.

 

Poke the pipe cleaners (or trimmings)  into the hole as far as they will go, bend over and coil the spare  round the inside of the oil well.  Trim to fit.

 

Test by filling the oil wells and standing the rocker covers on a newspaper.  After about an hour there should be an  oily patch below each of the delivery holes inhthe rocker cover.   Time it and see how long it takes to empty the oil.  About 8 hours is right. 

Too short? Twist the pipe cleaner or trimming tighter to slow the flow.

  Too long?  Add a strand to the trimmings, or twist the pipe cleaner looser.

 

When  oiling round before start up it pays to squirt a little oil over the wick where it disappears into the hole, or fill the well really brim full.  This helps  start the syphon.

 

 

Do not run without oil getting to  the rockers.  The bronze bushes in the rockers wear quickly and the oil wells provide the oil for the cam followers.... If necessary put once squirt of oil down each  oil hole every half hour or less.

 

N

[darren620]

many thanks for this most comprehensive helpline. 

 

i have new pipe cleaners acquired from the bosses crafts box. 

 

whilst we are out, i think i can force oil down the holes with the oil can.

 

when we get back i'll look to get new gaskets and take the lids off. also make some of these worsted trimmings. 

 

thankyou thankyou thankyou.

[MtB]

I followed BEngo's process for making new oilers last summer but not having an 'er indoors, I looked up and found a proper old wool shop in Oxford to get some genuine two-ply. The nice lady in there was 1) dead interested in why I wanted just a couple of metres of it and 2) reluctant to cut me a bit, instead flogging me a whole ball of the stuff in any colour I liked for 80p. So I picked white, to match the inside of the crank case casting.

 

Consequently I have a fair bit of wool left over and I can post some to anyone needing a bit for their own Kelvin.  

[darren620]

This mornings startup procedure included checking the caps for block/brasso/gunge.....

 

whaddya know.......... the one that didnt empty was blocked.........

 

will check she's dripping in an hour........ 

 

 

[darren620]

and the end of the day result. both oil wells equally drained and back to normal. the discussion ensues as to whos amount of brasso was the culprit. 

 

thnaks again. 

[Floaty Me Boaty]

Hi All,

Just completed a 132 Mile trip, from Wincham to North Kilworth, and the lady did not miss a beat.

Even on the Hot days, she never went above 148 Deg.

Nice steady 3 mph with that lovely sound made the 8 hours a day just fly by.

One war wound to the head, but that was my fault for not wearing my bump cap when prepping her for the daily workout.

Not sure if the batteries were charging correctly, as the indicator was bouncing some times. Never had an issue starting so must be OK.

After 10 Days cruising, time for a well earned rest.