Alternator mounts

[Hartlebury lad]

Hi all, 

I have had lots of issues recently with my alternator working loose due to vibration. Sorted out the vibration thing, but I am not convinced my alternator is bolted on correctly. (Not my handiwork)  The purple circled area houses a bolt going directly into what seems to be a rubber bush. It works loose. There is no bolt at all in the yellow area. First impressions apart from a disaster in the making! 

Edited February 18, 2023 by Hartlebury lad

[Hartlebury lad]

Trying to sort the photo, bear with me 😁

Edited February 18, 2023 by Hartlebury lad

[Hartlebury lad]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jgQoGowFeubyoi8D6

The link is the best I can do!

Edited February 18, 2023 by Hartlebury lad

[Tony Brooks]

The hole in the bracket within the yellow circle seems to be slotted, so it will slide onto a bolt/set screw. I don't recall seeing that before. Anyway, it should have a bolt through it.

 

Typically, I would expect the purple end to have a sliding metal bush in the alternator bracket, I have seen alternators with rubber anti-vibration bushes, but I would expect a nut and bolt to go right through the bush. I note what looks like a flattened spring washer under that bolt head.

 

Once you get it fitted with suitable bolts, check the pulleys are in line. The bolts may be missing/loose because they do not line up. You may have to pack the alternator in/out with washers.

[dmr]

You are correct, that installation is rubbish.

Ideally there should be a single long bolt going through the holes and the slotted foot.

Its probably an ISKRA alternator (or whatever this weeks name is) and I think they don't have the sleeve/bush that Tony mentions.

The slot makes fitting easier but I don't like it.

If you can't get a suitable bolt then a length of suitable studding (allthread) is a good second best.

Use several spacing washers as required to get the alternator in the correct fore-aft position and prevent stress on the alternator feet.

As Tony says, this might be a bodge due to misaligned holes, but is probsbly just because a long bolt/studding was not to hand.

 

Mine is just like this and has ran 1000's of hours on a length of studding (fingers crossed/touching wood)  I also have intermediate nuts on the central bit of the studding so maybe studding is even better than a long bolt..

[Hartlebury lad]

Thanks chaps. 

I noticed slots on the lower fitting, but no threaded offering. Alignment does worry me- I can see with my own eyesight it's not perfect. Should these fittings gkvern the entire set up, then finally do the sliding adjustable bolt last (not in pic) It's a Beta 38

[dmr]

The fore-aft alignment is relatively easy if a little tedious, you could maybe do this by eye but a straight edge is better. Use packing washers in those gaps to get the belt running true in the pulleys.  If the axis of the alternator is not parallel to that of the engine then its more difficult, but if its original then Beta will have got this right.

[ditchcrawler]

1 hour ago, Hartlebury lad said:

Hi all, 

I have had lots of issues recently with my alternator working loose due to vibration. Sorted out the vibration thing, but I am not convinced my alternator is bolted on correctly. (Not my handiwork)  The purple circled area houses a bolt going directly into what seems to be a rubber bush. It works loose. There is no bolt at all in the yellow area. First impressions apart from a disaster in the making! 

[Hartlebury lad]

Great help on here. Thanks also Ditchcrawler ......

[Hartlebury lad]

Well! 

It gets worse.

 

I started to take off the alternator to have a closer inspection of the mounts. The mounting hole is clearly is elongated, and the threads on part of the bolt were non existent. To make matters worse, like an idiot, i forgot to isolate/switch off the leisure supply, short circuit,  crackle, bang, and no leisure supply.

 

1. Is it worth persevering with an alternator ( at least13 years old, last 2 owners) with an elongated mount (it is an ISKRA as suspected) - none identical online, and 

 

2. Have i blown the main fuse pictured? I cant find another one related to the leisure switch.

 

only myself to blame on the second one. Uninjured!

 

Pics now as i am back home on the desktop!

Edited February 19, 2023 by Hartlebury lad

[ditchcrawler]

On lots of boats the cable from the alternator doesn't go through the isolator switch so that may or may not isolate it

8 minutes ago, Hartlebury lad said:

Well! 

It gets worse.

 

I started to take off the alternator to have a closer inspection of the mounts. The mounting hole is clearly is elongated, and the threads on part of the bolt were non existent. To make matters worse, like an idiot, i forgot to isolate/switch off the leisure supply, short circuit,  crackle, bang, and no leisure supply.

 

1. Is it worth persevering with an alternator ( at least13 years old, last 2 owners) with an elongated mount (it is an ISKRA as suspected) - none identical online, and 

 

2. Have i blown the main fuse pictured? I cant find another one related to the leisure switch.

 

only myself to blame on the second one. Uninjured!

 

Pics now as i am back home on the desktop!

 

Surly that is only the bush that is worn from what I am looking at.

[Hartlebury lad]

I may be wrong, but it seems to run to the isolator/main switch on the panel?

 

5 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

On lots of boats the cable from the alternator doesn't go through the isolator switch so that may or may not isolate it

Surly that is only the bush that is worn from what I am looking at.

Does that make any difference? i thought it would still compromise the quality of the mount?

Edited February 19, 2023 by Hartlebury lad

[Tony Brooks]

7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

On lots of boats the cable from the alternator doesn't go through the isolator switch so that may or may not isolate it

Surly that is only the bush that is worn from what I am looking at.

 

Yes, and it looks like the standard steel sliding bush, not rubber as the OP originally seemed to suggest.

 

They are a sliding fit and I would expect one taken from a scrap alternator to fit.

[Hartlebury lad]

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

 

Yes, and it looks like the standard steel sliding bush, not rubber as the OP originally seemed to suggest.

 

They are a sliding fit and I would expect one taken from a scrap alternator to fit.

So, i expect the existing bush/elongation is not fit for purpose? New alternator given its age, or try to source a replacement bush?

[ditchcrawler]

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Yes, and it looks like the standard steel sliding bush, not rubber as the OP originally seemed to suggest.

 

They are a sliding fit and I would expect one taken from a scrap alternator to fit.

Or failing that just turned up out of mild steel. They may even be a stock item at autoelectric places.

[Tony Brooks]

You can test the fuse with a multimeter set to ohms (except very close to zero ohms, if the meter shows a I on the left of the screen or O/L then the fuse is blown. I would take it out of its holder first.

[ditchcrawler]

8 minutes ago, Hartlebury lad said:

I may be wrong, but it seems to run to the isolator/main switch on the panel?

 

Mine also runs via the isolator but you will find some on here and other forums who advocate that is wrong because if you turn the isolator off with the engine running you risk damaging the alternator. For me I would rather have all the cables dead.

[Hartlebury lad]

Just now, ditchcrawler said:

Mine also runs via the isolator but you will find some on here and other forums who advocate that is wrong because if you turn the isolator off with the engine running you risk damaging the alternator. For me I would rather have all the cables dead.

I have had what i have been given! As you will guess, i am no electrical expert! I may take off the alternator completely, and get a garage to fit a new bush before trying to continue with the repair. Do you think it is the main fuse in the picture blown - there is no visible indication.

 

Sorry Tony, i missed your last post , cheers.

[ditchcrawler]

here are the bushes they only slide in I just did a search for Alternator Mount bushing and loads came up

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

18 minutes ago, Hartlebury lad said:

I have had what i have been given! As you will guess, i am no electrical expert! I may take off the alternator completely, and get a garage to fit a new bush before trying to continue with the repair. Do you think it is the main fuse in the picture blown - there is no visible indication.

 

You need a meter of even a test lamp to check it

[Hartlebury lad]

Cheers, you have been very helpful. I will get onto it this week.👍

[ditchcrawler]

8 minutes ago, Hartlebury lad said:

Cheers, you have been very helpful. I will get onto it this week.👍

Make sure its the right size before you buy it. looking at alternator spares it looks as if the end plates come with them already fitted

[Hartlebury lad]

Cheers, biggest dilemma is given the age of the thing and the faff factor, do i just replace it anyway. The previous owner had it on the boat in 2010. Unlikely to be original though on a 96 boat!

 

 

[Eeyore]

Looks a bit like a Beta Marine high level mount? They certainly used an alternator with that slot on some engines

[Hartlebury lad]

2 minutes ago, Eeyore said:

Looks a bit like a Beta Marine high level mount? They certainly used an alternator with that slot on some engines

It certainly is high level. I may email them tomorrow.

 

Going back to the fuse, they are not expensive to replace. would be handy to have a spare too. If i replace it, what is the safe way - battery supply is on the right in the picture, power out on the left?

Edited February 19, 2023 by Hartlebury lad