Lister Petter warning light problem

[pt2583]

6 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

I dont have the deluxe panel, but the wiring loom supports it.  there are two sets of connectors one pair for the temp warning light and the other for the temp gauge sender.  Obviously both designed to be insulted return.  so nothing to stop you using a combined switch/gauge sender if you can find one. 

 

you can see the two sets of connectors in my Pic, but i'm only using one of the gauge wires as my aftermarket sender is a single terminal (earth to engine) version with the  yellow wire, and the spare 'negative' unused in my case is hanging loose behind the switch wires.   This meant I could use the gauge wire already in the loom and connect a gauge to the other end saving me running a new wire. 

 

I'm pretty sure there is another 1/8 tap in the thermostat housing, where the warning light switch was originally fitted, but it was easy to knock that when clambering around the engine or working on the alternator drive belt so I moved it out of the way. 

 

 

thanks for coming back, I was pretty sure that i was right about the 1/8 NPT vs BSP thing as I spent ages with all sorts of adapters when I first fitted my temp gauge and I know the senders are nearly always 1/8 NPT (M10 is also quite common). Might be worth looking for that other hole on thermostat housing to save moving the pipe. 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes definitely will do, don't really want to have to buy another set of tools just to make new fuel pipe, if I can help it.

[pt2583]

New panel has arrived so will be cracking on with the testing and fitting - hopefully finished by Monday

[Peugeot 106]

 

Looks good! I’ve got my temp switch ready to fit next time i’m On the boat. I will get rid of the glow plug controller on the bell housing and move the split charge relay to the wall so nothing to knock ot vibrate off. I did have an old knackered panel I was going to send to you for spares but it must be the only part i’ve ever thrown out. Typical

Best of luck from me!

[Rincewind]

By the looks of things, from what I can see, it would seem like they have supplied you with a different (decent) ignition switch so you will most likely not need that diode on this set up. 

 

Not that it matters now, but just out of curiosity I would be interested to see the internal workings of that IR/ETR device and of the VDO alarm device and see if it matches my thoughts on how they are configured! (Don't worry about it, its just how my mind works, I am naturally curios about these things!) So don't chuck em in the bin if you decide to ditch them, let me know, as the schematic / connection diagrams you provided raises several questions.

 

Did they supply you with a schematic / connection diagram?

 

Good luck with your installation.

[pt2583]

No diagram, however I sent them my original diagram and redesigned diagram and as you would expect for the price it all matches up, even the colours of the wires. Also the connector (11 way) is the same as the one on the boat, so it's just plug and play. I don't have the IR/ETR as it had already been replaced but happy to send you the VDO panel if you want it. I obviously won't need it when I build my own spare from the original panel.

[pt2583]

Now installed the new panel and finished testing. Had originally decided to remove the existing sensor, test it then replace it and attach a gauge. As the gauge I bought came with a sensor I decided to use that. Before going to boat tested it at home with cold and 80 degree water. Resistance readings at these temperatures were 5k and 300 ohms. Also found the gauge to be pretty accurate, so not bad for £6 off ebay.
Installed the panel, new gauge and sensor and started the engine. All works pretty well, nice to have the oil light go out instantly and the warning buzzers too. The original issue of having to rev engine to get charge light remains, however as I now have a working oil warning light, not so much of an issue any more. Probably look into changing alternator as and when. I also sorted the wiring loom and made a bracket for the relay so it sits the right way up.
When I tested the old sensor I got resistance readings of 5k cold water and about 400 ohms at 80 degrees. Thanks again for everyone's help.

[Tracy D'arth]

5 minutes ago, pt2583 said:

Now installed the new panel and finished testing. Had originally decided to remove the existing sensor, test it then replace it and attach a gauge. As the gauge I bought came with a sensor I decided to use that. Before going to boat tested it at home with cold and 80 degree water. Resistance readings at these temperatures were 5k and 300 ohms. Also found the gauge to be pretty accurate, so not bad for £6 off ebay.
Installed the panel, new gauge and sensor and started the engine. All works pretty well, nice to have the oil light go out instantly and the warning buzzers too. The original issue of having to rev engine to get charge light remains, however as I now have a working oil warning light, not so much of an issue any more. Probably look into changing alternator as and when. I also sorted the wiring loom and made a bracket for the relay so it sits the right way up.
When I tested the old sensor I got resistance readings of 5k cold water and about 400 ohms at 80 degrees. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Great, glad it all got sorted out. That other temperature sender is worth keeping, it matches your new gauge, there are two different types and the sensors are not interchangeable.

 

You could try new brushes or a new regulator complete in that alternator, its the old Lucas type A127, common as chips, every auto spark in the world can overhaul it for very little,  If you decide on a new one or need spares try Lancashire Rotating Electrics first, good firm, good prices 01772 623600.

Edited February 26, 2023 by Tracy D'arth

[Peugeot 106]

Sounds good. Glad its all OK.

[pt2583]

On 25/02/2023 at 02:28, Rincewind said:

By the looks of things, from what I can see, it would seem like they have supplied you with a different (decent) ignition switch so you will most likely not need that diode on this set up. 

 

Not that it matters now, but just out of curiosity I would be interested to see the internal workings of that IR/ETR device and of the VDO alarm device and see if it matches my thoughts on how they are configured! (Don't worry about it, its just how my mind works, I am naturally curios about these things!) So don't chuck em in the bin if you decide to ditch them, let me know, as the schematic / connection diagrams you provided raises several questions.

 

Did they supply you with a schematic / connection diagram?

 

Good luck with your installation.

This is internal of the alarm unit. All sealed with epoxy resin. Doubt you could get it apart without destroying it

6 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Great, glad it all got sorted out. That other temperature sender is worth keeping, it matches your new gauge, there are two different types and the sensors are not interchangeable.

 

You could try new brushes or a new regulator complete in that alternator, its the old Lucas type A127, common as chips, every auto spark in the world can overhaul it for very little,  If you decide on a new one or need spares try Lancashire Rotating Electrics first, good firm, good prices 01772 623600.

That's very handy to know, been trying to figure out which one it was. They seem to be pretty cheap

[Rincewind]

5 hours ago, pt2583 said:

This is internal of the alarm unit. All sealed with epoxy resin. Doubt you could get it apart without destroying it

Yes, you are most likely correct, the components they used would probably be unidentifiable after removing the resin. 

On my own boat I have a microprocessor that monitors the engine functions so I was just curious to see if their ideas (VDO, The Manufacturers of the unit, - a Canadian company I believe) were similar to mine!

I have checked their website but can find no reference to your unit - most likely now, an obsolete product.

 

Thanks for the photos and feedback though, much appreciated!

 

Nice to know you are "up and running" again.  

[pt2583]

Final update. I found that upgrading the bulb in the charge/battery cct from a 2w to 3w made a significant change to the alternator excite behaviour. It now only needs a little blip of the throttle and the light goes out. So problem finally solved. I have now also finished the changes to the original instrument panel. Instead of a buzzer on the glow plug heat cct, I added an orange led light. So now have a spare instrument panel

[Peugeot 106]

“Compression ratio of LPW is 16:1 LPWS

22:1 hence more blowby until engine cylinder warms up and rings settle in and dirtier oil”’ I’m not risking It!