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Spare outboard - too many choices


Jerry Rhum

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19 minutes ago, Jerry Rhum said:

I'm afraid nothing moves (despite liberal applications of WD40)

 

WD40 is not an oil, let alone a penetrating oil, and will do nothing.

 

The Name 'WD 40' comes from the fact it is a 'water dispersant' and is the 40th blend they came up with. It is designed to be sprayed into (say) electrical junction boxes that have had water ingress and effectively 'dries out' the box.

 

Buy a can of proper penetrating oil and see if that works.

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1 hour ago, Jerry Rhum said:

I'm afraid nothing moves (despite liberal applications of WD40)

 

I have got a hand crank handle, but even standing on it does nothing.

 

The decompression lever (or any of the levers) won't budge.

 

I'll give it all another spray and a try, but the reason I got the boat so cheap was because the engine was considered useless.

 

 

In that case I think that I agree with you, it is knackered. That does not mean that an owner with the knowledge and time could not get it going again, but it sounds as if the decompressors that are not physically connected to anything are seized up, and it might also suggest that the valve it pushes on is also seized. I suspect the bores are also rusted up.  Just to top it off it uses a dynostart (combined dynamo & starter motor so a somewhat limited charge, but many times the charge a small outboard is likely to supply, if at all.

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Volvo MD1 weight is 130kg including gearbox apparently.

 

Get it out and put it on eBay. 

 

 

 

Honda 5 by the way and if you are looking at more modern outboards then Honda 4, 5 or 6 same basic unit different arrangements. 

 I would go for the 4 myself. 

 

 

Being a bit old fashioned I would look for one of the older Honda 5 outboards but check it over and be careful in hot weather. 

 

 

Or be a rebel and get a Yamaha Malta. Best small outboard ever made. I know this. The stickers fade but the greatness remains. 

Edited by magnetman
Edit to remove racist sex references
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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

WD40 is not an oil, let alone a penetrating oil, and will do nothing.

 

The Name 'WD 40' comes from the fact it is a 'water dispersant' and is the 40th blend they came up with. It is designed to be sprayed into (say) electrical junction boxes that have had water ingress and effectively 'dries out' the box.

 

Buy a can of proper penetrating oil and see if that works.

 

I didn't know that.

 

and with that level of technical knowledge you can see why renovating an entire engine might be a bit beyond me!

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I'm intrigued that this item says Seagull on it. 

 

bracket.jpg

 

Looks like you need to have a Honda 5 on there. 

 

 

You will need to check distance to water and look up shaft lengths as it might might want to be a long shaft. 

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It's not so much of having enough power to go, you also need enough power to stop, Those aircooled ebay specials are v noisy, old seagulls are quite polluting but you can get biodegradable two stroke oil, I suspect that a lot of the suggestions on here are maybe more than the OP was hoping to pay

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13 minutes ago, Jerry Rhum said:

Long shaft electric

 

vs

 

Short shaft petrol (temporary).

 

If I could just make the water a bit higher.......

Puffin4.jpg

update1.jpg

You know that you can get spring loaded/folding brackets that allow the motor to be moved up and down.

 

Failing that, it's a longshaft outboard.

Edited by rusty69
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29 minutes ago, Jerry Rhum said:

 

Puffin4.jpg

 

You might want to re-tie that mooring line - if anyone goes past 'at speed' you could end up with your rear rails being pulled out of line, or even removed completely.

 

Feed the mooring line from the cleat, under the rail, or even better - use the cleat on the 'nearside' so the line is not going to foul your rudder.

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2 minutes ago, Barneyp said:

If you've already got a short shift outboard, a new bracket (or possibly moving the old one,) will be cheaper than a new outboard.

If that is the OP's outboard, and not borrowed, a moveable bracket would allow use of both outboards (not a the same time) on the same bracket.

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The electric outboard could be mounted onto the rudder. 

 

It would take some tinkering but Stauff clamps are good for this. For Minn Kota it is 28mm size but that motor may have a different shaft diameter. 

 

I like these clamps :

Clamp-Assembly-SP-5XX-PP-DP-AS-M-W3.jpg.c15b7a288b3af2483a95fb6e7aac9135.jpg

 

Brilliant kit for playing with electric outboards. 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, magnetman said:

The electric outboard could be mounted onto the rudder. 

 

It would take some tinkering but Stauff clamps are good for this. For Minn Kota it is 28mm size but that motor may have a different shaft diameter. 

 

I like these clamps :

Clamp-Assembly-SP-5XX-PP-DP-AS-M-W3.jpg.c15b7a288b3af2483a95fb6e7aac9135.jpg

 

Brilliant kit for playing with electric outboards. 

 

 

Good idea. Or just bolt it to the ladder.

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I think you could probably just clamp it onto the stainless bit at the top of the rudder. It would sit on one side of the rudder and it looks like the prop would be just behind the edge of the rudder blade. That would free up the outboard bracket for the petrol outboard. Boat would steer better with motor on rudder. 

 

Always be careful having trolling motor and petrol outboard near each other. Can of petrol and batteries not a very good combination. 

Edited by magnetman
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If the OP doesn't already have a petrol outboard then (depending on the charging arrangements) I think the best move would be to remove the engine and replace it with a battery bank, this would at least partly solve the ballast issue and give a much greater range - thus removing the need for a back up petrol outboard. This all assumes the batteries can be charged on board when the boat is not in use. 

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This would be ideal. About 130kg apparently. 

 

Elevated large solar panel as a shade for the helm. Could be a really nice setup. Basic lead acid say 25kg per 100ah so you could put in 500ah the motor probably uses about 50 amps flat out so 10 hours of range. Nice ! charged up when not in use by the 365w solar panel. 

 

Not much good in winter but would probably stay well charged in summer if not used intensively every day. 

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Once again, thanks everybody.

 

I love all these suggestions. 

 

I started this thread with 'too many options' and now I have even more, but that will help me make the right decisions.

 

I would never have considered things movable brackets or clamping to the rudder.

 

Keep the ideas coming!

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The Volvo engine in your boat was a good unit in its day(50 years ago+). It looks like your engine has been under water and got water in the cylinder. These engines were direct cooled(so do not have a heat exchanger in a Mirror Ofshore) I have lited one with dificulty,but the engine space is very tight.I think from memory,the last of these boats came with an outboard from the factory. Nothing wrong with a Seagull as a back up. Cheap as chips and most parts available. Cant remember the mix. 8 or 10 to 1? Tends to clog its cooling duct if used in salt water and not flushed with fresh water.

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