Flue set up… help!

[Adam1991]

Hi all, we will soon be fitting our stove. We’re clueless when it comes to fitting the flue and the kits seem really expensive. It’s a Morsø 1412. Can anyone recommend a flue and fittings for this? Is there any regulation around using single wall set up? Is it necessary now to have double wall?

Thanks, 
Adam

[mrsmelly]

Put a single skin cheapo flue from such as any of the online chandlers. Double skin is uneccessary and unwarranted THERE IS NO LEGISLATION TO STOP YOU.  Forget any stuff related to houses regarding fitting. Ensure you use decent fireproof materials and get some assistance from the many people who have fitted them, its a doddle to do. Plenty of threads on here re how/safety etc etc.

[Tony Brooks]

5 minutes ago, Adam Mc Gowan said:

Hi all, we will soon be fitting our stove. We’re clueless when it comes to fitting the flue and the kits seem really expensive. It’s a Morsø 1412. Can anyone recommend a flue and fittings for this? Is there any regulation around using single wall set up? Is it necessary now to have double wall?

Thanks, 
Adam

 

No, the BS installation instructions are only best practice. If using a single wall flue in a position where people may fall against it or touch it accidentally would fit a punched metal shield.

[bizzard]

5 minutes ago, Adam Mc Gowan said:

Hi all, we will soon be fitting our stove. We’re clueless when it comes to fitting the flue and the kits seem really expensive. It’s a Morsø 1412. Can anyone recommend a flue and fittings for this? Is there any regulation around using single wall set up? Is it necessary now to have double wall?

Thanks, 
Adam

First of all you need to determine where the stove is to be sited, and it's not always where you wanted it put. The flue needs to avoid roof beams, any wiring or other pipes. Early on a dewy morning the outline of roof beams can often be seen on the roof top., or by screw heads securing the ceiling panelling screwed into them. Ideally you need a straight flue pipe with no cranks in it,  gentle curves are ok but that would mean a specialized machine shop job pipe bender.      That's the start of the job.

[Adam1991]

Thanks everyone for your advice. 
 

Adam 

[Puffling]

Test the angle for your roof collar with your stove in its chosen position before cutting or drilling anything. You need the flue to exit the top of the stove as vertically as possible. This depends quite a lot on the curve of your roof. A slight tilt outward of the flue may be unavoidable.

 

Cut the hole in your roof with a jigsaw, going very steadily and with gentle pressure only. Lubricate the blade with cutting oil if you can. It will take a long time to complete the circle.

 

Fire rope and Plumber Flue silicone at the top and bottom seals - vitreous cement will crumble over time with the continued expansion and contraction of the flue.

[LadyG]

The angle of my stove flue is in line with the cabin, that is to say it is parallel to the cabin from the stove top to the collar. It looks much better than many I have seen.

Do not use fireclay to seal against the deck head (ceiling), I had to chisel away some fireclay which was heating the wood to the point of near combustion at 2.00 am when I first used the fire overnight. Having created an air gap, I then put some fibreglass rope round the join, and I also bound the metal ring with exhaust tape. 

I also had a kerb of angle iron (2"), on top of the hearth as embers would otherwise fall out on to the floor.

Best if the stove pretty much nearer the centre than at the door, unless it is a pretty short boat. 

I have a smoke alarm and a CO alarm near my stove, also one near cooker and one near bed head.

If I feel drowsy of a night I open the windows for a few minutes to get a full change of air. I'm not paranoid, just carefull.

Edited January 10, 2023 by LadyG

[Tony Brooks]

Any combustible materials should be kept well clear of the flue so there would ideally be a 2" gap between the flue and deck head. Any combustible insulation in the roof should be removed  for a greater area and be replaced by Rockwool/glass fiber insulation. I think that you can get a circular brass  trim piece to cover the gap, but I used a square off-cut of the insulation board I stuck the tiles to and painted it black.

[LadyG]

I had a look at the Hetas recommendation for domestic stove insulation for clues, and had I been starting from scratch with the boat, I would have had an air gap between boat and stove, then  a silicate board, to be tiled, plus another air gap to the stove. As it is, the stove is a bit of an afterthought. 

Edited January 10, 2023 by LadyG

[Tracy D'arth]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Any combustible materials should be kept well clear of the flue so there would ideally be a 2" gap between the flue and deck head. Any combustible insulation in the roof should be removed  for a greater area and be replaced by Rockwool/glass fiber insulation. I think that you can get a circular brass  trim piece to cover the gap, but I used a square off-cut of the insulation board I stuck the tiles to and painted it black.

I find such a large gap unnecessary, 1" seems to be sufficient in my experience and is easier to cover.