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SLC

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At what point do you stop being new to boating? That is not my question, but I need advice about our wood burning stoves and directions as to whom I can contact to get ours "fixed". We are located at Dunchurch Pools near Rugby.

 

Our boat was built in 2016 and was self-fitted out. We bought it this year. It came with 2 wood burning stoves, a Morso Squirrel 1400 and a smaller Villager stove. One leaks around the door (the handle is busted which may not help!) and the other we are not sure about. The CO alarms works..... However, we feel we ought to have both stoves and pipework checked and serviced. For one thing, given what we have found elsewhere on the boat we are uncomfortable that they meet the latest safety standards and do not present a health risk. We have 2 CO alarms, smoke detector and fire extinguishers, what we need is someone to come around and examine the installation, service the stoves and if necessary, clean, repair or replace. (And of course, do so in accordance with appropriate standards)

Please, does anyone have any suggestions and contacts, preferably mobile?

Thanks in advance.

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I can't help with recommendations because I do my own service/repairs on the boat stove when we had it and our home stove, but you seem to think that there are regulations and I do not think that is true for a boat. There is a BS but it is only a recommendation. Otherwise it is what the BSS says which is that the stove must be fixed so it can't move and there must be no signs of heat damage to surrounding materials.

 

If your flues are single skinned (Like most boats) and you ask that they be made to meet the regulations you could be in for a large bill and probably less heat into the boat.

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

I can't help with recommendations because I do my own service/repairs on the boat stove when we had it and our home stove, but you seem to think that there are regulations and I do not think that is true for a boat. There is a BS but it is only a recommendation. Otherwise it is what the BSS says which is that the stove must be fixed so it can't move and there must be no signs of heat damage to surrounding materials.

 

If your flues are single skinned (Like most boats) and you ask that they be made to meet the regulations you could be in for a large bill and probably less heat into the boat.

 

I've said this before but when we had a stove installed at home (By a HETAS guy) he was amazed when I told him about our stove install on the boat, particularly around the proximity of nearby wooden surfaces like the cabin steps.

 

There are strict regs around this for a domestic install as you will know.

 

To the OP - I trust you are not using the stove with the broken door??

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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

If your flues are single skinned (Like most boats) and you ask that they be made to meet the regulations you could be in for a large bill and probably less heat into the boat.

Are you saying that the single skinned flues on the majority of boats don’t meet current BSS regulations then?

 You have got to be careful with what is a requirement and what is a recommendation.

 The link to the Soliftec stove install diagram.

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf

Edited by PD1964
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17 minutes ago, SLC said:

At what point do you stop being new to boating? That is not my question, but I need advice about our wood burning stoves and directions as to whom I can contact to get ours "fixed". We are located at Dunchurch Pools near Rugby.

 

Our boat was built in 2016 and was self-fitted out. We bought it this year. It came with 2 wood burning stoves, a Morso Squirrel 1400 and a smaller Villager stove. One leaks around the door (the handle is busted which may not help!) 

If the Morso is the one with the broken handle,  I may be able to help

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7 minutes ago, PD1964 said:

Are you saying that the single skinned flues on the majority of boats don’t meet current BSS regulations then?

 You have got to be careful with what is a requirement and what is a recommendation.

 The link to the Soliftec stove install diagram.

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf

 

That is not what I said. I said that the BSS only requires the stove be fixed and no heat damage in its vicinity. It is the BS/ISO that seems to require twin wall flues.

 

Your link is to the ADVISORY BS/ISO requirements.

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12 minutes ago, PD1964 said:

Are you saying that the single skinned flues on the majority of boats don’t meet current BSS regulations then?

 You have got to be careful with what is a requirement and what is a recommendation.

 The link to the Soliftec stove install diagram.

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf

 

The 'problem' may well be that if you end up with a 'domestic' stove fitter / engineer / repairer he may well want to do the work to the standards to which he is used to (same as some electricians, plumbers and gas fitters) not knowing that the marine requirements are either non existant, advisory or, very different to domestic regulations.

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We are not using the stoves and will not until checked out. IMHO the only issue would be the door seals and a failed handle.

I am aware of the "possible" conflict between marine and "domestic" standards, but I do wonder what our insurers would say if our boat went up in smoke and we claimed we met (non-existent) "marine" standards! BSS really ought to address these issues but if they did half (?) the boats would fail.... Also, I read on Narrowboat World that new wood burning stoves have to meet new standards introduced this year. Eco Design meeting clearSkies level 5 is recommended. Of course, we all have to meet environmental standards as well as domestic and marine. But I digress.

I want a safe boat. And to fix existing stoves.

Edited by SLC
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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That is not what I said. I said that the BSS only requires the stove be fixed and no heat damage in its vicinity. It is the BS/ISO that seems to require twin wall flues.

 

Your link is to the ADVISORY BS/ISO requirements.

 The debatable thing is and often very confusing thing, is as Alan says, if you get a domestic stove fitter to check it out he will go by his regulations BS/ISO requirements, if you get a Boat fitter he will go on BSS requirements. Even on that link I put on it says the BS regulations aren’t compulsory. Which can be confusing to Newbies.

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18 minutes ago, SLC said:

We are not using the stoves and will not until checked out. IMHO the only issue would be the door seals and a failed handle.

I am aware of the "possible" conflict between marine and "domestic" standards, but I do wonder what our insurers would say if our boat went up in smoke and we claimed we met (non-existent) "marine" standards! BSS really ought to address these issues but if they did half (?) the boats would fail.... Also, I read on Narrowboat World that new wood burning stoves have to meet new standards introduced this year. Eco Design meeting clearSkies level 5 is recommended. But I digress.

I want a safe boat.

As I said stoves and there fitment are always a hot subject, if it meets BSS standards and you haven’t messed with it, moved it, or fitted it after the start date of your current BSS you should be fine. We all know the BSS isn’t perfect. I change my door rope and glass seal every year, as well as fresh cement around the joints where needed.

Edited by PD1964
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16 minutes ago, SLC said:

We are not using the stoves and will not until checked out. IMHO the only issue would be the door seals and a failed handle.

I am aware of the "possible" conflict between marine and "domestic" standards, but I do wonder what our insurers would say if our boat went up in smoke and we claimed we met (non-existent) "marine" standards! BSS really ought to address these issues but if they did half (?) the boats would fail.... Also, I read on Narrowboat World that new wood burning stoves have to meet new standards introduced this year. Eco Design meeting clearSkies level 5 is recommended. Of course, we all have to meet environmental standards as well as domestic and marine. But I digress.

I want a safe boat. And to fix existing stoves.

 

 

Many boats failed the Boat safety examination when it first came in, including ours. After various amendments and jumping through many unnecessary hoops some things became advisories. It wasn't until recently that the scheme mandated one of the most important devices on a boat be introduced, a CO alarm. Funny that innit.

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58 minutes ago, SLC said:

At what point do you stop being new to boating? That is not my question, but I need advice about our wood burning stoves and directions as to whom I can contact to get ours "fixed". We are located at Dunchurch Pools near Rugby.

 

Our boat was built in 2016 and was self-fitted out. We bought it this year. It came with 2 wood burning stoves, a Morso Squirrel 1400 and a smaller Villager stove. One leaks around the door (the handle is busted which may not help!) and the other we are not sure about. The CO alarms works..... However, we feel we ought to have both stoves and pipework checked and serviced. For one thing, given what we have found elsewhere on the boat we are uncomfortable that they meet the latest safety standards and do not present a health risk. We have 2 CO alarms, smoke detector and fire extinguishers, what we need is someone to come around and examine the installation, service the stoves and if necessary, clean, repair or replace. (And of course, do so in accordance with appropriate standards)

Please, does anyone have any suggestions and contacts, preferably mobile?

Thanks in advance.

 

I've had similar work done well by Colin Rowe of C B Boats 07801 081395 who is based not far from you.in Coventry.

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1 hour ago, SLC said:

However, we feel we ought to have both stoves and pipework checked and serviced.

Most people service stoves themselves.

Thoroughly clean the flues. These can clinker up with hard deposits that will gradually restrict gas flow till the stove can no longer work. Happens gradually. Inspect glass for cracks. Inspect glass seals and door seals. Use a smoke pellet to see if there are any leaks. Fix. Door and glass seals are an easy DIY job. Needs doing every one, or two winters. Once you've done it once, you'll know how. 

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A lot of folks do ther own boat stove maintenance. Personally I would not let any hetas or gas safe so called competent person within a mile of my boat or home based on my bad experiences. However I'm reasonably 'handy' and know my limitations.  

Even fairly major surgery on the morso squirrel is pretty simple. Plenty of you tube videos on changing seals and repairs. parts are readily available. (Shop around for best prices).

 

However if your not sure and the results,  if you get it wrong, are half a day out with the undertaker so caution is understandable and looks like you have taken all the right precautions with smoke and CO alarms. 

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6 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

A lot of folks do ther own boat stove maintenance. Personally I would not let any hetas or gas safe so called competent person within a mile of my boat or home based on my bad experiences. However I'm reasonably 'handy' and know my limitations.  

Even fairly major surgery on the morso squirrel is pretty simple. Plenty of you tube videos on changing seals and repairs. parts are readily available. (Shop around for best prices).

 

However if your not sure and the results,  if you get it wrong, are half a day out with the undertaker so caution is understandable and looks like you have taken all the right precautions with smoke and CO alarms. 

 

Did a HETAS engineer fit your stove at home?

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My experience with rebuilding and burning my own stoves is that door seals make no practice difference, there is no point when the fire needs no air so the air coming through the doors can just be subtracted from the air controls. When burning stoves run at negative pressire so suck air in through any gap, they dont emit smoke .

 

If you want to seal the doors against smoke blowing back down the flue due to the don't then you can't since you already have big holes in the stove for your air controls. 

 

My Morso Squirrel I built from scratch was perfectly sealed on every joint, now the door seals are expired and gone and it makes no practical difference. I have a CO monitor next to it that has never detected anything.

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On 01/12/2022 at 13:10, Tony Brooks said:

I can't help with recommendations because I do my own service/repairs on the boat stove...

 

To answer the OP's first question that's the point at which one stops being new to boating. Unless you've got money to burn employing the services of various boaty tradesmen of course.

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23 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

To answer the OP's first question that's the point at which one stops being new to boating. Unless you've got money to burn employing the services of various boaty tradesmen of course.

 

Depends on the skills and tools required for the task surely. For example welding a replacement double cranked flue for a stove to replace a split one is probably not something a lot of people not new to boating would take on for themselves. 

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1 hour ago, alias said:

 

Depends on the skills and tools required for the task surely. For example welding a replacement double cranked flue for a stove to replace a split one is probably not something a lot of people not new to boating would take on for themselves. 

 

True but replacing door glass, door seals, fire bricks, grate parts and such like is not that difficult unless screws are seized and even then it is not too difficult to solve, even if you have to drill right through the door for the glass clip retaining screws.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

True but replacing door glass, door seals, fire bricks, grate parts and such like is not that difficult unless screws are seized and even then it is not too difficult to solve, even if you have to drill right through the door for the glass clip retaining screws.

 

I agree, I've done all of those but the last one so far.

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On 05/12/2022 at 00:09, waterworks said:

My experience with rebuilding and burning my own stoves is that door seals make no practice difference, there is no point when the fire needs no air so the air coming through the doors can just be subtracted from the air controls. When burning stoves run at negative pressire so suck air in through any gap, they dont emit smoke .

 

If you want to seal the doors against smoke blowing back down the flue due to the don't then you can't since you already have big holes in the stove for your air controls. 

 

My Morso Squirrel I built from scratch was perfectly sealed on every joint, now the door seals are expired and gone and it makes no practical difference. I have a CO monitor next to it that has never detected anything.

Ive been on boats since 1979 with solidfuel stoves and in spite of 2 co alarms and smoke detectors got caught out last year.

Replaced the stove seal and doubled the insulation behind it as part of changing its orientation.

Cleaned chimney. Smoke pellet allgood.

 

Few nights later in strong wind stove ran away. Boiling kettle  whistle alerted me.

As i looked to the stove i could see reflection of flames-on the new silicate boards.

No smoke alarm no co alarm.

The string seal had unglued under the catch allowing an inch or so to fold into the fire rather than sit in the grove.

Stove was pretty hot even though bottom damper was 98% closed.

 

i always leave a full kettle on the fire. 
 

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