Insulation on rear hatch

[Feeby100]

Hello what do you good people use to insulate the rear hatch 

I am thinking of glueing thing bubble wrap insulation on it as there not much room where it slide 

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

Is this a steel hatch? If so, what, if anything, is on the inside already? What is the problem you want to solve? Condensation, heat loss?

Edited November 20, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[Chewbacka]

My rear hatch and doors were too draughty to successfully insulate so I put a wood door between that and the boat interior, separating the engine space from the sleeping space.

[Feeby100]

25 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Is this a steel hatch? If so, what, if anything, is on the inside already? What is the problem you want to solve? Condensation, heat loss?

Both it just metal at min and get wet and I like to keep heat in a bit more 

Sorry steel hatch

[Tracy D'arth]

6 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

Both it just metal at min and get wet and I like to keep heat in a bit more 

Sorry steel hatch

I've never had a shock off the rear hatch.

 

An insulated purpose made bung that you can push in will be the best way. Take it out before opening.

[LadyG]

7 hours ago, Chewbacka said:

My rear hatch and doors were too draughty to successfully insulate so I put a wood door between that and the boat interior, separating the engine space from the sleeping space.

Big thick curtains work too.

[blackrose]

I had the same issue, a bare sliding steel hatch with about 5mm clearance on the underside so no space for any insulation. I ended up insulating it on the outside with 1" celotex board and covered that with aluminium sheet and angle, stuck together with Stixall. It's been painted now.

 

I still get a bit of condensation in winter on the inside but you could deal with that with a layer of the silver bubble wrap as you originally suggested.

 

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by blackrose

[Feeby100]

That look really good 👍 

[robtheplod]

Wickes do some good fibre board which works very well..... not sure if this helps you but heres mine and this is what i used:

 

ProWarm BACKER-PRO Tile Insulation Backer Board (Single) - 1200 x 600 x 6mm | Wickes.co.uk

 

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by robtheplod

[johnmck]

Our unlined steel rear hatch used to drip with condensation during the colder months. I got some self adhesive neoprene in sheet form and applied this. This allowed a clearance so as not to impede hatch operation, but a barrier to condensation. It has worked for us.

[PeterF]

I only had about 5mm space under my bare steel hatch so i glued some 3mm thick cork tile on with a no more nails type glue. You have to do it the hatch is dry and warmer and try to press something against the tiles to avoid an air pocket while it sets, something like an upside down broom wedged on the rear steps. Worked for me. Do not use the self adhesive tiles, the glue releases when the hatch gets very hot in the sun.

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, PeterF said:

You have to do it the hatch is dry and warmer and try to press something against the tiles to avoid an air pocket while it sets, something like an upside down broom wedged on the rear steps. 

 

Or if you're doing the job in summer just take the sliding hatch off and put some weights on the tiles?

 

I would avoid No more nails by the way. I'm sure it's worked fine for you Peter but it's too chalky & brittle for the thermal expansion and contraction typically encountered when bonding dissimilar materials on boats. You want a product that's flexible and there are much better products around these days. Try Stixall from Toolstation or Sticks like Sh*t from Screwfix. They go off like rubber and are extremely strong.

[PeterF]

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

 

Or if you're doing the job in summer just take the sliding hatch off and put some weights on the tiles?

 

I would avoid No more nails by the way. I'm sure it's worked fine for you Peter but it's too chalky & brittle for the thermal expansion and contraction typically encountered when bonding dissimilar materials on boats. You want a product that's flexible and there are much better products around these days. Try Stixall from Toolstation or Sticks like Sh*t from Screwfix. They go off like rubber and are extremely strong.

Blackrose,

That is good info for the future, guess I am lucky that when I did use it over a large surface the cork tiles were flexible enough.

[blackrose]

6 hours ago, PeterF said:

Blackrose,

That is good info for the future, guess I am lucky that when I did use it over a large surface the cork tiles were flexible enough.

 

Yes I've used No more nails before and it's done the job and hasn't failed. But when I've scraped the stuff off years later I realised it wasn't really the right stuff. CT1 from Toolstation is another product worth trying but it's a bit more expensive and probably over-specified for that sort of job.

 

I've used Stixall when I've wanted to mount a pump, header tank or just pipework onto a steel bulkhead but can't be bothered to drill and tap the steel. Just find a suitable piece of ply or wood, abrade both surfaces, wipe them over with a bit of white spirit, apply the Stixall to one surface and push them together. The next day you'd need a hammer and chisel to get them apart but the joint is flexible and can deal with expansion and contraction. Then you can just screw your fittings into the wood instead of the steel bulkhead.

[james13]

Hi

I used these stuck them on with some CT1 got them off Ebay 5 mm White Foam PVC Sheet A3 Foam PVC Sheet Board 10 sheets  Have cured the condensation £25 for 10 

[Feeby100]

On 21/11/2022 at 07:34, robtheplod said:

Wickes do some good fibre board which works very well..... not sure if this helps you but heres mine and this is what i used:

 

ProWarm BACKER-PRO Tile Insulation Backer Board (Single) - 1200 x 600 x 6mm | Wickes.co.uk

 

 

Look good mate 

[Drayke]

I used carpet tiles on my hatch, stuck them on with impact adhesive been on 12 years now no problems. 

[GUMPY]

10mm thick cork sheet on mine, it's certainly an improvement on painted steel.