A few ideas id like to run by you all

[Boatbricky]

Hi I have a few idea id like to run by you all.

 

I have bought a 30ft cruiser stern narrowboat.

 

Internal dimensions are roughly 18ft x 6ft.

 

It is a empty shell, no floor walls ceiling doors or windows.

 

I bought it to live in while I'm working away not full time.

 

I'm in construction so have a good idea of how things work and how things go together.

 

I've had a few ideas id effectively like a yay a nay or a dont be a idiot on as you all on here have a far more experienced outlook on  all things narrowboat.

 

I'm planning that from the stern will be entry via the door to the right (not central) 

Toilet room to the left

Kitchen to the left past that

Then sitting room/bath ( you'll understand when you read on)

With the bed at the front

 

 

1. Windows.

From a logical point of veiw....... not a traditional one haha ........ upvc windows attacked with a router to give a 15mm outside lip externally glued on the outside and fixed into the battening inside

 

2. Window water defences 

Welded over and to the sides of the window, 30mm x 4mm flat steel bar welded at 90 degrees to stop/slow water ingress from water from the roof coming in the top of the window and cross wind driving it in the sides.

 

3. Condensation defence

I was thinking air blowers and extractors into the bilges and around the water tank, effectively one blowing outside air in and another sacking it out and out the boat via a vent.

 

4. Bath

Planning on almost completely open plan with the 4ft bath opposite the log burner.

The bath also having a fold up fold down top, one side being a table top the other being waterproof.

Water storage wont be a issue (with me calcs) worked out that within the bow and half the under bed area at the front of the bed

 

5. Skylights

Planning on a few skylights (triple glazed) on welded frames.

One over the bed

One over the bath shower, mainly to gain height.

 

6. Blacking 

Bitumen I gather is the option predominantly used.

In my time roofing we used to use a product called cromapol acrypol that is the dogs nuts and keeping water out and taking a beating from life and sticks like s##t it a mattress to everything g and anything. 

It does come in black as well as grey.

Has anyone heard of it, used it or have any thoughts on it.

 

7. Outside taps

Thought outside hot and cold taps at the bow would be a good idea?? 

I get filthy at work and usualy pre wash befor I come inside anyway and thought it might be a good idea to have both hot and cold available outside.

 

9. Log burner

Obviously want a burner.

What sort of Kw size am I going to need??

 

10. Under floor storage

Want to have a almost full length under floor storage area to check the bilge and also for storage, good idea/bad idea?

 

I'm sure there are more things but I cant think of them now, let me know your thoughts, dont be shy to say "your a moron, dont be thick" hahaha

[David Mack]

Clean, derust and paint the inside steelwork. Fit battens to carry the hull side and cabin linings. Then get the boat sprayfoamed from floor level up - hull sides, under gunwales, cabin sides, roof, front and back bulkheads, with no gaps.  That way you will have a space you can heat economically, and no shell condensation.

[MtB]

My advice is sell this empty shell to a dreamer and buy yourself a second hand finished narrowboat in full useable condition. 

 

It will turn out WAY cheaper.

 

Seriously. 

 

[LadyG]

8 hours ago, MtB said:

My advice is sell this empty shell to a dreamer and buy yourself a second hand finished narrowboat in full useable condition. 

 

It will turn out WAY cheaper.

 

Seriously. 

 

I fear MtB is correct, most things take twice as long and cost three times estimates. There are good reasons why most steel narrowboats are constructed the way they are, you are going to end up with a cold damp hovel which is unsaleable.

[harrybsmith]

Sounds like a good project, a few things-

 

UPVC windows on boats can develop condensation between the panes/delaminate due to vibration (from the engine). They also look toss, but that's my opinion... Eyebrows over them is a good plan.

 

3-5kw should be good on the stove, I have a (5kw) boatman stove on my 32ft current boat, it's rarely used above its minimum setting.

 

Outside taps are a great idea

 

I've seen folk use all sorts of things as blacking, personally I'd want something that was rated for constant immersion but some paint is usually better than none

 

Bilges on boats will get cold and damp. Bad place to store your Tuxedo, OK for bottled goods! 

 

Good luck with the project, I loved doing the boat I currently live on so much I'm doing another at the moment. Probably would be cheaper to buy something already done, until you end up re-doing bits in a couple of years because it's all old and cream crackered 

[LadyG]

11 minutes ago, harrybsmith said:

Sounds like a good project, a few things-

 

UPVC windows on boats can develop condensation between the panes/delaminate due to vibration (from the engine). They also look toss, but that's my opinion... Eyebrows over them is a good plan.

 

3-5kw should be good on the stove, I have a (5kw) boatman stove on my 32ft current boat, it's rarely used above its minimum setting.

 

Outside taps are a great idea

 

I've seen folk use all sorts of things as blacking, personally I'd want something that was rated for constant immersion but some paint is usually better than none

 

Bilges on boats will get cold and damp. Bad place to store your Tuxedo, OK for bottled goods! 

 

Good luck with the project, I loved doing the boat I currently live on so much I'm doing another at the moment. Probably would be cheaper to buy something already done, until you end up re-doing bits in a couple of years because it's all old and cream crackered 

But if each and every job is done meticulously using the most suitable materials, then only minor upgrades are required. OP has little idea of what is required and unless he gets the bodywork prepped as previously described he will indeed have to strip it all out and start again. By the time most DIY ers have done one project they have had enough.

You may have the time and the shore side facilities to work on a boat, but I suspect OP will find most of his technical knowledge is not appropriate to boating. I cite coatings, water storage, hot water provision, basic electrics, electicity.

Edited November 12, 2022 by LadyG

[harrybsmith]

3 minutes ago, LadyG said:

But if each and every job is done meticulously using the most suitable materials, then only minor upgrades are required. OP has little idea of what is required and unless he gets the bodywork prepped as previously described he will indeed have to strip it all out and start again. By the time most DIY ers have done one project they have had enough.

 

I'm in agreement with that too, i'd possibly even say if OP's in the building trade they could compromise and use celotex etc, although sprayfoam would work too. 

 

To me planning windows and steelwork makes most sense to do first though, before you fill it full of some sort of insulation 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

8 hours ago, MtB said:

My advice is sell this empty shell to a dreamer and buy yourself a second hand finished narrowboat in full useable condition. 

 

It will turn out WAY cheaper.

 

Seriously. 

 

This is very good advice.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

1. Windows.

From a logical point of veiw....... not a traditional one haha ........ upvc windows attacked with a router to give a 15mm outside lip externally glued on the outside and fixed into the battening inside

 

2. Window water defences 

Welded over and to the sides of the window, 30mm x 4mm flat steel bar welded at 90 degrees to stop/slow water ingress from water from the roof coming in the top of the window and cross wind driving it in the sides.

uPVC windows are seen on some boats, but not many. Biggest problem is that typically the windows open outwards. Most narrowboat sides slope and the sorts of windows more usually used open inwards, with water deflection features that mean they can be left open in the rain. This won't work for outward opening uPVC. Also outward opening windows make walking down the gunwhale hazardous. The same goes for welded 30mm x 4mm bar. Rain deflection is better done at roof level, along the length of the roof to the lowest point, usually ahead of the stern end of the cabin, but sometimes at the stern end when the boat is ballasted bow up. These can also act as hand rails. Your shell may already have these. I've not seen uPVC windowed boats with deflectors as you describe, which suggests they can be fitted leak free without them. The only opening on my boat with steel rain deflectors is over the top of a side hatch and these are shaped so they don't catch on clothing as you walk the gunwhale and pitch you in to the drink.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

 

3. Condensation defence

I was thinking air blowers and extractors into the bilges and around the water tank, effectively one blowing outside air in and another sacking it out and out the boat via a vent

How are the blowers ad extractors to be powered? These will need electrical supply 24/7, which is only practical if the boat is hooked up to a shore line 24/7. Electrical usage and replacement is the biggest difficulty on a boat, when it is off grid. Passive ventilation is fine. Read the boat safety scheme recommendations on high and low level ventilation. When unoccupied, then some electrical heating, or a dehumidifier can be used to prevent condensation in cold weather, if on shore power. If unpowered, then preventing condensation traps under mattresses and in wardrobes when away and the boat left unheated is needed. Do a search on this.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

4. Bath

Planning on almost completely open plan with the 4ft bath opposite the log burner.

The bath also having a fold up fold down top, one side being a table top the other being waterproof.

Water storage wont be a issue (with me calcs) worked out that within the bow and half the under bed area at the front of the bed

Intriguing. Could work well and a good use of the space a 4' bath takes up. I have one of these bath tubs and the water usage is manageable for one person. How do you plan to heat the water? Unless you like cold baths!

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

5. Skylights

Planning on a few skylights (triple glazed) on welded frames.

One over the bed

One over the bath shower, mainly to gain height.

A lot of people have problems with leaks and condensation from skylights. Triple glazing and welded frame mounting should help with this. Over the bed can be a privacy issue. Boat roofs are low down compared with tow path level, before you get in to bridges etc.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

6. Blacking 

Bitumen I gather is the option predominantly used.

In my time roofing we used to use a product called cromapol acrypol that is the dogs nuts and keeping water out and taking a beating from life and sticks like s##t it a mattress to everything g and anything. 

It does come in black as well as grey.

Has anyone heard of it, used it or have any thoughts on it.

It's called bitumen, but that has been banned for a while now. Never heard of the product you name, but boats usually use various proprietory blacking compounds, that just look like bitumen. Is the one you are thinking of recommened for continuous immersion and in the splash zone? Might work, might not, no idea.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

7. Outside taps

Thought outside hot and cold taps at the bow would be a good idea?? 

I get filthy at work and usualy pre wash befor I come inside anyway and thought it might be a good idea to have both hot and cold available outside

Some people with dogs have taps outside the cabin like this, so a good idea for a prewash. Again, how do you plan to get hot water?

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

9. Log burner

Obviously want a burner.

What sort of Kw size am I going to need??

Go for a multi-fuel stove, not a log burner. They are different, but many people call a multi-fuel stove a log burner, because they can burn logs, but a log burner is not a multi fuel stove. Gives you more options. Smokeless fuel is more energy dense than wood, so less storage space required.

Hard to find good quality stoves less than 4kW these days. 4kW is more than adequate for a boat the size you say. Don't go more than 5kW. Stoves coke up with ash if not run hard every once in a while.

 

9 hours ago, Boatbricky said:

10. Under floor storage

Want to have a almost full length under floor storage area to check the bilge and also for storage, good idea/bad idea?

The bilge can be wet from condensation and from any leaks. OK as a wine/beer storage area, or for anything moisture proof. It is also needed for ballast to keep the boat stable in roll and to be steerable in any sort of wind. Ballast is more important than storage. Steel ballast is denser than concrete, or brick. Lots of advice from a search on ballast and around keeping it off the base plate to prevent moisture being trapped underneath. Ballast weight and distribution needs to be calculated to get the boat at the correct displacement and trim, with the weight of stuff, fit out and people. 

 

Jen

 

 

[Bod]

@Boatbricky

Before you start to even buy let alone fit anything, read up and understand the Boat Safety Scheme.

This is a set of standards that the boat must meet, in order to be insured and licenced.

Failure to meet this standard, will create an unsaleable/unusable boat, worth nothing.

Dependant on the age of the hull, you may be required to meet the RCR standards, which are much stricter.

 

Bod

 

[Ken X]

Another caution I'm afraid against outward opening windows. Locks will eventually bite you. You may be an unwilling participant in the experiment as to whether you can hang the whole boat on open windows whilst locking down.  It won't end well.😕

Good luck with whatever you go for.

[LadyG]

There are a few good youtube builds, try Colin Jacques .

He had skills and a workshop, but I think he outsourced the electrics 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

15 minutes ago, Ken X said:

Another caution I'm afraid against outward opening windows. Locks will eventually bite you. You may be an unwilling participant in the experiment as to whether you can hang the whole boat on open windows whilst locking down.  It won't end well.😕

Good luck with whatever you go for.

Even if you don't hang up and potentially sink the boat, many lock walls leak badly. Having a jet of manky canal water going in through an open window would be no fun.

 

53 minutes ago, harrybsmith said:

They also look toss, but that's my opinion...

My opinion too.

Edited November 12, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[Boatbricky]

10 hours ago, David Mack said:

Clean, derust and paint the inside steelwork. Fit battens to carry the hull side and cabin linings. Then get the boat sprayfoamed from floor level up - hull sides, under gunwales, cabin sides, roof, front and back bulkheads, with no gaps.  That way you will have a space you can heat economically, and no shell condensation.

 

Way ahead of you 

 

Vactan done followed by I bitumen primer and 2 blackjack 

 

😃😃

 

 

9 hours ago, MtB said:

My advice is sell this empty shell to a dreamer and buy yourself a second hand finished narrowboat in full useable condition. 

 

It will turn out WAY cheaper.

 

Seriously. 

 

But thats not nearly as much fun

[Boatbricky]

1 hour ago, harrybsmith said:

Sounds like a good project, a few things-

 

UPVC windows on boats can develop condensation between the panes/delaminate due to vibration (from the engine). They also look toss, but that's my opinion... Eyebrows over them is a good plan.

 

3-5kw should be good on the stove, I have a (5kw) boatman stove on my 32ft current boat, it's rarely used above its minimum setting.

 

Outside taps are a great idea

 

I've seen folk use all sorts of things as blacking, personally I'd want something that was rated for constant immersion but some paint is usually better than none

 

Bilges on boats will get cold and damp. Bad place to store your Tuxedo, OK for bottled goods! 

 

Good luck with the project, I loved doing the boat I currently live on so much I'm doing another at the moment. Probably would be cheaper to buy something already done, until you end up re-doing bits in a couple of years because it's all old and cream crackered 

Ahh balls so upvs windows are out 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

 

Does anyone have any ideas on good windows that tend to decrease condensation or is condensation just a ongoing battle ill have to get used to??

[Boatbricky]

56 minutes ago, LadyG said:

But if each and every job is done meticulously using the most suitable materials, then only minor upgrades are required. OP has little idea of what is required and unless he gets the bodywork prepped as previously described he will indeed have to strip it all out and start again. By the time most DIY ers have done one project they have had enough.

You may have the time and the shore side facilities to work on a boat, but I suspect OP will find most of his technical knowledge is not appropriate to boating. I cite coatings, water storage, hot water provision, basic electrics, electicity.

 

I'm prety good with most stuff and if I dont know how to do something I know somone who does.

And I should have .entio ed that the boats in a boat yard atm with people there that can help if/when I end up , up s##t creek without a paddle haha

53 minutes ago, harrybsmith said:

 

I'm in agreement with that too, i'd possibly even say if OP's in the building trade they could compromise and use celotex etc, although sprayfoam would work too. 

 

To me planning windows and steelwork makes most sense to do first though, before you fill it full of some sort of insulation 

 

I'm planning to weld the current windows up so I can place them as and where I want them opposed to where they will fit 👌👌

 

Should have mentioned ed that too...... sorry

[Mike Hurley]

Someone must make windows that open inwards, both my apartments have them, talk to some UPVC companies.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

14 minutes ago, Boatbricky said:

Does anyone have any ideas on good windows that tend to decrease condensation or is condensation just a ongoing battle ill have to get used to??

Some boats have condensation problems, most do not. Properly designed boat windows, even single glazed, which most are, will have channels and drain holes to send any condensate overboard.  They deal with the condensation problem, rather than try and prevent it. Look at the web sites for channelglaze and other boat window makers. Get a quote. Sit down before reading it! You are fitting out the boat, so proper design and construction can prevent condensation problems. It isn't the issue you think it is.

 

Things to keep condensation down.

• Keep the cabin bilge dry. Modern boats will have the cabin bilge seperate from the engine bilge. After the 1970's roughly. Fix any leaks that allow water to collect in the cabin bilge.
• If the boat is occupied, then ventilation, to change over the air and stop humidity rising from the presence of peope and heating. Heat increases the capacity of the air to hold water and warm surfaces won't condense it out.
• Insulation. Again, increases the inside temperature of surfaces that can condense moisture. Also keeps more heat in.
• Doors open, or good ventilation, or even extraction over cooking appliances in use, especially gas, where water is given off from burning the gas, as well as vapour from pans, kettles etc.
• When the boat is unoccupied, then two approaches. 1. Leave all ventilation open to ensure that air is exchanged. Upend mattrasses and remove soft furninshings and clothees from the boat. Or 2. Close down ventilation and use a dehumidifier, which will need a shore line grid electricity connection.

6 minutes ago, Mike Hurley said:

Someone must make windows that open inwards, both my apartments have them, talk to some UPVC companies.

This still doesn't entirely get over the sloping side problem. They'll have to be kept closed in the rain and in locks, unlike hopper opening windows, which will deflect water outwards.

Edited November 12, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[Sea Dog]

19 minutes ago, Boatbricky said:

Ahh balls so upvs windows are out 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

 

Does anyone have any ideas on good windows that tend to decrease condensation or is condensation just a ongoing battle ill have to get used to??

The condensation on the window panes is not the key issue it might appear since most narrowboat windows drain this to the outside. The bigger issue is condensation on the frames which has nowhere to go but into the fabric of your boat with attending mould, mildew and rotting issues. Some manufacturers are doing frames with a thermal break, but they don't come cheap.

 

Condensation management is an issue generally - if you have moist air it's gonna find somewhere to condense however much you spend on windows! Plenty on here to read up about that (see the search function), but the stove, good insulation and adequate ventilation is a good starting point.

 

ETA: See also Jen above wot got wrote whilst I was one thunm typing! 

Edited November 12, 2022 by Sea Dog
Added ETA bit

[Boatbricky]

1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

This is very good advice.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

uPVC windows are seen on some boats, but not many. Biggest problem is that typically the windows open outwards. Most narrowboat sides slope and the sorts of windows more usually used open inwards, with water deflection features that mean they can be left open in the rain. This won't work for outward opening uPVC. Also outward opening windows make walking down the gunwhale hazardous. The same goes for welded 30mm x 4mm bar. Rain deflection is better done at roof level, along the length of the roof to the lowest point, usually ahead of the stern end of the cabin, but sometimes at the stern end when the boat is ballasted bow up. These can also act as hand rails. Your shell may already have these. I've not seen uPVC windowed boats with deflectors as you describe, which suggests they can be fitted leak free without them. The only opening on my boat with steel rain deflectors is over the top of a side hatch and these are shaped so they don't catch on clothing as you walk the gunwhale and pitch you in to the drink.

 

How are the blowers ad extractors to be powered? These will need electrical supply 24/7, which is only practical if the boat is hooked up to a shore line 24/7. Electrical usage and replacement is the biggest difficulty on a boat, when it is off grid. Passive ventilation is fine. Read the boat safety scheme recommendations on high and low level ventilation. When unoccupied, then some electrical heating, or a dehumidifier can be used to prevent condensation in cold weather, if on shore power. If unpowered, then preventing condensation traps under mattresses and in wardrobes when away and the boat left unheated is needed. Do a search on this.

 

Intriguing. Could work well and a good use of the space a 4' bath takes up. I have one of these bath tubs and the water usage is manageable for one person. How do you plan to heat the water? Unless you like cold baths!

 

A lot of people have problems with leaks and condensation from skylights. Triple glazing and welded frame mounting should help with this. Over the bed can be a privacy issue. Boat roofs are low down compared with tow path level, before you get in to bridges etc.

 

It's called bitumen, but that has been banned for a while now. Never heard of the product you name, but boats usually use various proprietory blacking compounds, that just look like bitumen. Is the one you are thinking of recommened for continuous immersion and in the splash zone? Might work, might not, no idea.

 

Some people with dogs have taps outside the cabin like this, so a good idea for a prewash. Again, how do you plan to get hot water?

 

Go for a multi-fuel stove, not a log burner. They are different, but many people call a multi-fuel stove a log burner, because they can burn logs, but a log burner is not a multi fuel stove. Gives you more options. Smokeless fuel is more energy dense than wood, so less storage space required.

Hard to find good quality stoves less than 4kW these days. 4kW is more than adequate for a boat the size you say. Don't go more than 5kW. Stoves coke up with ash if not run hard every once in a while.

 

The bilge can be wet from condensation and from any leaks. OK as a wine/beer storage area, or for anything moisture proof. It is also needed for ballast to keep the boat stable in roll and to be steerable in any sort of wind. Ballast is more important than storage. Steel ballast is denser than concrete, or brick. Lots of advice from a search on ballast and around keeping it off the base plate to prevent moisture being trapped underneath. Ballast weight and distribution needs to be calculated to get the boat at the correct displacement and trim, with the weight of stuff, fit out and people. 

 

Jen

 

 

I've found so.e mari e 12v blowers and extractors and was planning to have them on a timer to go on and off...... predominantly when I'm out

 

As to hot water I was planning on lpg seems alot easier than the big tank thing

[Jen-in-Wellies]

Also worth looking at portholes. Less glass area that water than condense on to. Better privacy, especially in the bath! Better security. Easier to keep the boat warm in winter. Look more "boaty". Can be darker inside, but just cut an extra one, or two. Two styles, either traditional brass frames, which can't be opened, or the modern take in aluminium framing, some of which can be opened.

5 minutes ago, Boatbricky said:

I've found so.e mari e 12v blowers and extractors and was planning to have them on a timer to go on and off...... predominantly when I'm out

Are you planning to be on a mooring with a shore grid connection? Otherwise, how do you plan to replace the power these use? Hardly any boats have them. Ask yourself if there is a reason for this?

 

5 minutes ago, Boatbricky said:

As to hot water I was planning on lpg seems alot easier than the big tank thing

Very very expensive to run. A back boiler from the stove is the cheapest method in winter. Diesel heating is cheaper than gas all year round. I have solar thermal hot water in summer, but that is rare. Don't discount having a calorifier. With your lack of space, an instant gas water heater is probably the best bet. Look at the Boat safety scheme rules over these. Only some models will pass.

Edited November 12, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[BEngo]

Beware of moving window openings.  Unless you are, or have a really, really good welder, with stacks of experience in doing it, welding a piece in to close up a window hole just introduces massive distortion  to the surrounding steelwork. This looks pants and is trouble ahead.  Even with an expert you can either tell a window was there once, or a lot of body filler is waiting to fall off when you bounce off a bridge or lock entry.

 

 

Martin Kedian does, or did offer a bolt-in  solution, which, to some, can  look better and does not distort things.

 

Air blowers are good at ventilation, but increase the number of air changes per hour and need a lot of electric.  Heating air is expensive too.  That said, with a 4-5 KW stove in a 30 ft boat you will probably be more interested in dumping heat any way you can.

 

If you arrange the ventilation properly you will only need to blow air either in or out, not both.  Generally, IN is best.  Rather than a bilge blower, have a look at computer fans. They will provide a continuous, gentle airflow, don't  cost too much power and are quiet enough to leave on.  If you can make the electric.

 

Before doing much more I would suggest you do a power audit.   Then work out how many batteries you are going to need to support that, and then how you are going to put that  power back: every day, or your batteries will be expensive ballast.  Solar is good, but you only have a small roof so perhaps cannot get as much as you want from there.  Solar is also not much use October to April.

Running the engine is common, but not good for engines, really, and the cost is huge, if you look at it properly. 

 

Do not be seduced by the claims for Lithium batteries.  They are great, but they are not as simple as the blurb would have you believe. For example,  charging them as they should be for long life from an engine alternator requires a very careful approach. There are other things to be wary of too.  You need a real expert, or a great deal of time, research and money, to do a successful install.  

N

[LadyG]

I've only had one steel boat, it has both windows and portholes 

This boat is dry as a bone, which is a major major factor for health 

I have foam insulation from new, using board insulation board would be cheaper and preferred by many DIY, no argument there.

Windows : they must be fitted to a rust free opening, I have Caldwell single glazed, easy to clean. I use foam door draught strips to stop condensation along bottom rail, most water runs to external.

Portholes are not easy, there is a bit of condensation.

My stove is no brand, needs fuelled every five hours. 

I would recommend a back boiler and run big fat pipes throughout the boat, this keeps boat dry.

For hot water I have the Webasto, it's diesel, used in summer, and back up in winter. 

In a small boat, it's probably better to have a gas water heater. Not cheap to run.

If you are going to change windows and have welding skills, I would be looking at an industrial look, plates riveted on, then portholes cut in to the rectangular plates. It's a professional job.

Its fine to think of innovative ideas, but in the end it's a boat, not a house.

PS forget the bath, go to local swimming pool or carry buckets of warm water to a kiddies paddling pool on the cruiser stern. You need to change your mindset from living in a house with everything on tap, literally, but if you live in a marina you will be fine.

 

Edited November 12, 2022 by LadyG

[MtB]

1 hour ago, Boatbricky said:

But thats not nearly as much fun

 

True, provided you have your goal clear in your mind. If you want a boat to go boating with, buy a complete boat as a project costs three times your highest estimate and takes three times longer than your longest estimate. 

 

If you want the fun of the re-build and have no particular deadlines to get afloat for (e.g. coz u are selling the house) then a project is great. 

 

Don't expect to save money on it though. plenty of project boats for sale where the DIYer has run out of money! 

 

 

[LadyG]

9 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

 

Don't expect to save money on it though. plenty of project boats for sale where the DIYer has run out of money! 

 

 

And run out of enthusiasm.

OP has bought his project at the worse time of the year, it's going to be cold, wet, and dark, probably muddy outside. But I expect he knew that,

PS I hope he posts with more questions before he spends any more money, just touching base it's a good plan.

Edited November 12, 2022 by LadyG

[dmr]

12 hours ago, MtB said:

My advice is sell this empty shell to a dreamer and buy yourself a second hand finished narrowboat in full useable condition. 

 

It will turn out WAY cheaper.

 

Seriously. 

 

Maybe derust and sprayfoam then move it to London (if its not already there) and sell the shell at a handsome profit to finance a better ready to go boat?