Jump to content

Barrus Shire ignition switch


Featured Posts

The ignition switch in the boat is playing up.

It all started by intermittent ‘will it work or won’t it’? A bit of wiggling about and it started the engine. That was over a period of a few months. 
 

Anyway, now it starts most times but the ‘battery ignition light’ flickers. Once again a bit of a fiddle and it goes out but the engine stop fails to operate. Fiddle again and the light flickers and the engine stop operates.

 

I think a new unit required. Then comes the next bit. Which one. Taking off the panel, the back of the switch is ‘very busy’. Four terminals in use and one not in use. Are these compatible units or Barrus only? 
 

Advice welcome please.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be able to replace it with a 'universal' key switch from a car spares shop or your usual online market place. Just make sure it is a 4 position switch - off/run/start/heat. Ignition switches intended for petrol engines may not have the extra 'heat' position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

AFAIK they are a standard diesel ignition switch.  You will find that 2 of the terminals go to the same contact.

If the key has 5 positions, (including off)  then its probably this one  https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-59-switches/c-171-ignition-switches/p-204-diesel-start-switch-5-position

 

If it has only 4 positions (including off)  then its probably this one  https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-59-switches/c-171-ignition-switches/p-205-diesel-start-switch-4-position

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the one you need

 

https://shireshop.co.uk/en-GB/catalog/all/part/3rAF-yy0D-5y0D/shire-shanks-catalogue-dash-panels-electrical-ignition-switch-rdg215a5

 

I know to my cost. Earlier in the year I stepped off the roof and caught the key, which snapped off in the barrel. I was unable to get the piece of the switch out, luckily I was near Stafford and RCR had one on the shelf, got me moving within an hour of calling them.

 

Just noticed, this is the switch for engines after 2016, before then you need part number RDG215A6

 

Kevin

Edited by Kendorr
Added pre 2016 info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have ordered and it’s been delivered to my sons address a replacement ignition switch.

 

Have another symptom now as well. The rev counter no long works. Even if I fiddle with the key.

 

Is this fault connected with defective ignition switch? As always comments always welcome.

 

As a footnote. All the replacement ignition switches I have seen seem to have ‘less’ quality keys than the oringinal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

Have ordered and it’s been delivered to my sons address a replacement ignition switch.

 

Have another symptom now as well. The rev counter no long works. Even if I fiddle with the key.

 

Is this fault connected with defective ignition switch? As always comments always welcome.

 

As a footnote. All the replacement ignition switches I have seen seem to have ‘less’ quality keys than the oringinal.

 

It might be if it has an intermittent bad contact, what do the rest of the gauges do. If they drop to zero then it is likely to be the switch or a bad connection between battery and switch. If the gauges still work then it is unlikely to be the switch so check the multi-plug on the main harness, check the SMALL connections on the alternator and if all are OK I fear it might be a blown diode in the alternator. If it is a diode the alternator will still appear to charge but at a reduced maximum output and a reduced voltage.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

It might be if it has an intermittent bad contact, what do the rest of the gauges do. If they drop to zero then it is likely to be the switch or a bad connection between battery and switch. If the gauges still work then it is unlikely to be the switch so check the multi-plug on the main harness, check the SMALL connections on the alternator and if all are OK I fear it might be a blown diode in the alternator. If it is a diode the alternator will still appear to charge but at a reduced maximum output and a reduced voltage.

Thanks once again Tony. I’m picking up the switch this weekend. Will do the suggested checks. Then replace the switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all. Success! Bought a replacement as suggested by Eeoyre. Returned that one as it was twice the size and to be honest, to me, it didn’t look right.

Anyway, called Rodley Boat Centre. Within 24 hours I collected a replacement from Barrus at a cost of £81 including postage! (shock horror). Moved the boat yesterday in the pouring rain, and just now fitted the new switch.

 

Rev counter and all else now works. Voltage up to where it should be.

 

Oh! Hang on a minute, my wife has just announced, battery light on. Rev counter hovering near zero but moving. Voltage back down to 12.3. ish on the gauge.

 

Thought I’d dun summat good!🙁

 

Im leaning towards duff alternator. Any ideas as to what I do now please. Why did it operate correctly at first, within five minutes it’s reverted to pre new bit?

We are not too far from Lower Park Marina at Barnoldswick. Some may remember they did a little welding job for me in June on our way to the ‘long stay’ at Skipton. So that may be our best bet as I’m a bit of a numpty in old(er) age.

Tony. Just read your suggestions. I will bury myself in the injun ‘ole and have a fiddle. Retrieve my multi meter and learn how to use it again. As always. How testing is this boating lark.

Edited by Nightwatch
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Nightwatch said:

Im leaning towards duff alternator. Any ideas as to what I do now please. Why did it operate correctly at first, within five minutes it’s reverted to pre new bit?

 

Make sure any blade terminals on the alternator are tight and that the multi-plug in the main harness pins and sockets are clean and tight. If all OK then I agree it points to alternator (or lose drive belt). Possibly a bad solder joint inside or, more likely if older worn brushes. Many modern alternators have the brushes mounted on the regulator that s held in place by two or three bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If you need an alternator or parts, Lancashire Rotating Electrics are not far away and give an excellent service.

Thank you. I used to live in Leyland. Need to recover the car from Skipton and possible have a trip over there. 
So many options!

 

 

Edited by Nightwatch
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Make sure any blade terminals on the alternator are tight and that the multi-plug in the main harness pins and sockets are clean and tight. If all OK then I agree it points to alternator (or lose drive belt). Possibly a bad solder joint inside or, more likely if older worn brushes. Many modern alternators have the brushes mounted on the regulator that s held in place by two or three bolts.

Thanks again Tony. Bewilderment and confusion setting in. My cheapy multimeter is duff as well. Battery? I would have thought so. No instructions or very few. Can’t get the back off without damage. So given up on that bit.

I will as suggested loosen terminals, clean and retighten. If not, seek replacement unit or see if someone at Lower Park can scratch their head better than I can. Depending on which alternator it is, it is either eight or five years old.

 

Blooming gloom. Issue is we have limited time to get down the Wigan flight. Mind you, after the rain we traveled in yesterday, the time limit may be lifted. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New multimeter.

Two alternators. One large, one smaller.

 

Large one showing 14+ volts. Small one, with contortionist movements, showing, I think 12.4or there abouts. 

 

Does this indicate a defective alternator? On my Victron Battery monitor it is showing a voltage of (with engine running) 12.66 for the starter battery. This is lower than normal, should I ‘assume’ the starter alternator of on its way?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

New multimeter.

Two alternators. One large, one smaller.

 

Large one showing 14+ volts. Small one, with contortionist movements, showing, I think 12.4or there abouts. 

 

Does this indicate a defective alternator? On my Victron Battery monitor it is showing a voltage of (with engine running) 12.66 for the starter battery. This is lower than normal, should I ‘assume’ the starter alternator of on its way?

 

 

Check what voltage is on the Ign. terminal on the alternator with the key switched on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you what to get moving just pop a jump lead between both bank positives on after you start up and remove it when you stop. Both banks will then charge and once the engine bank has charged you won't notice much difference in domestic charging time. Don't allow the clips to short to metal of negative. You could if you wished go for months like that.

 

How many warning lamps do you have? If only one fault-finding from it could get confusing.

 

If you disconnect the warning lamp wire on the small alternator and check the voltage on it with the ignition on it should be battery voltage (12.4) and the warning lamp should be off (if two warning lamps). Then touch the terminal on the end of the that lead to clean metal. The warning lamp should illuminate at full brightness. If it does not, there is a problem with the warning lap circuit. If it does, and you got battery voltage at the disconnected terminal almost certainly it is a faulty alternator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have bitten the bullet and arranged to meet someone on Sunday who can refurb if needs be.

 

These electrickery issues really get to me. So, I have to say many thanks to all.

 

Will report back once we know how many piggy banks to raid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further to Tonys post, the small alternator is usually the type with a warning light terminal and an ignition switched positive terminal. These are connected to the wiring by either a "t" shaped plug with 2 wires or a flat sided oval plug with 3 wires. Just need to be careful when picking which wire to touch to the engine. Worst case, you'll blow the "control" fuse that feeds the panel.

There are adaptors available for fitting the 3 wire plug type alternator to the wiring from the earlier 2 wire type.

Sorry that I gave you duff info, I guess yours was the smaller diameter, but longer ignition switch with screw terminals?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Eeyore said:

Further to Tonys post, the small alternator is usually the type with a warning light terminal and an ignition switched positive terminal. These are connected to the wiring by either a "t" shaped plug with 2 wires or a flat sided oval plug with 3 wires. Just need to be careful when picking which wire to touch to the engine. Worst case, you'll blow the "control" fuse that feeds the panel.

There are adaptors available for fitting the 3 wire plug type alternator to the wiring from the earlier 2 wire type.

Sorry that I gave you duff info, I guess yours was the smaller diameter, but longer ignition switch with screw terminals?

No worries Mr Eeyore. Please don’t stop offering advice. Always valuable. The housing has spade connectors

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For Barrus 42 i posted alternatives for starter and ignition here, much cheaper and ignition switch is identical to the Barrus item.

 

 

For a Barrus shire 42 the following after market parts are
 


    STARTER MOTOR:
 


    S13-294 from www.startermotorandalternator.co.uk (also on ebay with same ref number) 
 


    IGNITION SWITCH:
 


    Durite ignition switch 4 position BG1-0-351-05
 


    Greensparkplug company
 


     
 


    If it is any use to you location wise the Greensparkplug company are based in middlewich
  https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/99596-dealer-for-barrus-shire-parts/&do=findComment&comment=2246551

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, reg said:

For Barrus 42 i posted alternatives for starter and ignition here, much cheaper and ignition switch is identical to the Barrus item.

 

 

For a Barrus shire 42 the following after market parts are
 


    STARTER MOTOR:
 


    S13-294 from www.startermotorandalternator.co.uk (also on ebay with same ref number) 
 


    IGNITION SWITCH:
 


    Durite ignition switch 4 position BG1-0-351-05
 


    Greensparkplug company
 


     
 


    If it is any use to you location wise the Greensparkplug company are based in middlewich
  https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/99596-dealer-for-barrus-shire-parts/&do=findComment&comment=2246551

Didn’t see your post on the thread. Wish I had.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.