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25mm2 cable

blackrose

By blackrose
in Boat Building & Maintenance

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blackrose Veteran II

blackrose

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1 hour ago, jonathanA said:

Unless you intend to mount that isolator on the roof then you don't need waterproof glands. If it's just going to be inside the boat nr the controller I would just push the wires through the hole. Ideally you would fit a 20mm rubber grommet to protect the cables from chafing but not really a problem with a plastic box and tough solar cable. 

 

Ok thanks.

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

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4 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Thanks it's just that the glands take up extra space in the area where the switch was going, but I'll figure it out.

 

I'm no electrical expert but your method doesn't sound very sympathetic to the equipment. My panels will be connected in series and if I did that in full sunshine could it possibly induce a voltage spike and wreck the controller?

 

There aer no 'rules' that must be followed and there are several ways to skin the cat.

My panels are 120v DC each and I have had no problems with either connecting or disconnecting the wire at the MPPT.

 

Its not as if you are doing it every day - it is only maybe 2 or 3 times per annum.

 

I think the highest voltage I have had showing on the MT50 is around 110v.

 

Picture showing panel to MPPT voltage at 103v

 

 

 

 

 

 

05-06-16.jpg

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blackrose Veteran II

blackrose

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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

There aer no 'rules' that must be followed and there are several ways to skin the cat.

My panels are 120v DC each and I have had no problems with either connecting or disconnecting the wire at the MPPT.

 

Its not as if you are doing it every day - it is only maybe 2 or 3 times per annum.

 

I think the highest voltage I have had showing on the MT50 is around 110v.

 

Picture showing panel to MPPT voltage at 103v

 

 

 

 

 

 

05-06-16.jpg

 

Indeed. I personally wouldn't switch off my equipment by disconnecting cables because we have devices called switches, but as you say are many ways to achieve the same outcome so I have no problem with you doing whatever you want with your equipment on your boat.

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Jen-in-Wellies Veteran II

Jen-in-WelliesDonate to Canal World

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28 minutes ago, blackrose said:

Thanks it's just that the glands take up extra space in the area where the switch was going, but I'll figure it out.

As space is an issue, 20mm grommets could be used instead. Available from a lot of places. Will prevent chafing of the wire and look neat, but won't be waterproof, or secure the cable.

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Richard10002 Veteran II

Richard10002

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32 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Its not as if you are doing it every day - it is only maybe 2 or 3 times per annum.

 

When you say "you", who on earth are you talking about?

 

I agree that it is unlikely to be an every day occurrence. I probably disconnect mine between 2 and 4 times a month, although I haven't kept an actual record.

 

There will be some who never disconnect, some who do it as little as you, and some who do it more than me.

 

We are talking about a piddling little switch.... the world is full of them and, mostly, they make life easier, rather than more complicated.

 

Like you say.... there are no rules..... although you seem to want to encourage people to do as you do :) 

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LadyG Veteran II

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On 23/09/2022 at 10:00, David Mack said:

But are they? None of the stuff I read when I fitted my panels suggested I should fit one, and the Bimble kits didn't include one.

I think my Bimble kit did have a breaker, of course I'm not sure what that is exactly, not being very astute, but there is one thing which looks like a sort of switch and it came with a rail to mount it.

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David Mack Veteran II

David MackDonate to Canal World

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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I think my Bimble kit did have a breaker, of course I'm not sure what that is exactly, not being very astute, but there is one thing which looks like a sort of switch and it came with a rail to mount it.

That's the breaker to go between the solar controller and the batteries. This is the typical installation diagram from Bimble.

MPPT-setup-design.png

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LadyG Veteran II

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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

Is it in an enclosure?

Not sure .

I have never heard of an enclosure, you mean a housing?

I think it passed the BSC, anyway looks perfectly safe where it is, I can see it, and it works.

All my switches could be damaged if hit with a big hammer, including this one.

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

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23 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Not sure .

I have never heard of an enclosure, you mean a housing?

I think it passed the BSC, anyway looks perfectly safe where it is, I can see it, and it works.

All my switches could be damaged if hit with a big hammer, including this one.

image.png.64bb0b5591847cdd2f6222e90e7040fe.png

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LadyG Veteran II

LadyGDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

image.png.64bb0b5591847cdd2f6222e90e7040fe.png

That's ok, it's not designed to go in a fuse panel and the terminals are not exposed.

Just now, LadyG said:

That's ok, it's not designed to go in a fuse panel and the terminals are not exposed. Plus it's  in good condition.

 

Edited by LadyG
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George and Dragon Rising Star

George and Dragon

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11 hours ago, LadyG said:

That's ok, it's not designed to go in a fuse panel and the terminals are not exposed.

 

I think you'll find it is. Either way I would want additional protection against unintended operation which an enclosure would provide. 

On my boat the 12V switches/overloads are very easy to brush against while entering or exiting the cabin from the stern deck. Discovering the lights are not working in the front cabin can be an annoyance. One day I will laser cut an acrylic cover to reduce the likelihood of this. 

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LadyG Veteran II

LadyGDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, George and Dragon said:

I think you'll find it is. Either way I would want additional protection against unintended operation which an enclosure would provide. 

On my boat the 12V switches/overloads are very easy to brush against while entering or exiting the cabin from the stern deck. Discovering the lights are not working in the front cabin can be an annoyance. One day I will laser cut an acrylic cover to reduce the likelihood of this. 

I would notice if the batteries were not getting charged, the lights would go out, after about five days!

It is in a corner, it cant be switched on or off inadvertantly. I could add a plastic cover from a Morrisons cream cake, that will enclose it.

Edited by LadyG
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