Oil level within sump

[Tony Brooks]

56 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

 

The engine in Helvetia had a pressed steel sump with a drain plug socket, from which the manual oil drainage pump collected the oil. The sump is shallow for about a third of it's length, which your posts would suggest was originally an automotive engne. However, I have documentary evidence that when fitted, it was a brand new engine, fully Marinised by High Power Marine. Over the years I have seen quite a few of these engines in bits in the UCC Braunston workshop, and they all had pressed steel sumps, although some were deeper than others. I have never seen one with a cast sump. It may well have been the authorised Newage component, but I doubt that many marinisers of canal boat engines would have seen any additioal value in fitting a sump which was presumably a lot more expensive than the original equipment one.

 

 

 

The reason I keep on about those cast sumps is because no one knows exactly what sump has been fitted to a particular engine. What is correct for one may not be correct for another. I suspect an EA van sump would fit a 1.5D and they had an inclined engine. I think the 152 or J4s had and even more strange sump with a comparative small area of extra deep sump and a larger area of shallow sump. The bottom line is that nowadays no one can be sure.

 

I think Jen's suggestion is best if the OP is that concerned.

[David Schweizer]

25 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

The reason I keep on about those cast sumps is because no one knows exactly what sump has been fitted to a particular engine. What is correct for one may not be correct for another. I suspect an EA van sump would fit a 1.5D and they had an inclined engine. I think the 152 or J4s had and even more strange sump with a comparative small area of extra deep sump and a larger area of shallow sump. The bottom line is that nowadays no one can be sure.

 

I think Jen's suggestion is best if the OP is that concerned.

 

Very true, When Jonathan Hewitt re-built my engine, he offeered to fit a good condition sump to replace the rather battered one on my engine. The size and shape was fine, but the bolt holes did not line up, so I ended up with a nicely painted but dented sump!!

 

 

Edited August 14, 2022 by David Schweizer

[Mikexx]

4 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

 

 

I'm not sure if that is to scale. If I put the image into MS Paint, and after some measuring in pixels, at BDC I put the lower bolt on the crank to be on the sump bottom.

 

BICBW

[Jen-in-Wellies]

1 hour ago, Mikexx said:

 

I'm not sure if that is to scale. If I put the image into MS Paint, and after some measuring in pixels, at BDC I put the lower bolt on the crank to be on the sump bottom.

 

BICBW

That's what I thought when I first looked at it. What you are seeing though is one of a pair of pistons, either 1 & 4, or 2 & 3, at top dead centre and the corresponding big end at the top of its rotation. The other circle is one of the big ends belonging to one of the other pair of pistons, they are 180 degrees apart, each firing every other revolution. The drawing doesn't show the centre line of the crankshaft and main bearings at all, as far as I can see. The difference between the centre of big end at the top of its stroke and the centre of the big end at the bottom of its stroke is 89mm.

Like this:

Edited August 14, 2022 by Jen-in-Wellies

[Mikexx]

17 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

That's what I thought when I first looked at it. What you are seeing though is one of a pair of pistons, either 1 & 4, or 2 & 3, at top dead centre and the corresponding big end at the top of its rotation. The other circle is one of the big ends belonging to one of the other pair of pistons, they are 180 degrees apart, each firing every other revolution. The drawing doesn't show the centre line of the crankshaft and main bearings at all, as far as I can see. The difference between the centre of big end at the top of its stroke and the centre of the big end at the bottom of its stroke is 89mm.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. I now feel a fool, especially as the bearing at the low end of it's rotation shows con-rod bolts!

 

At least my question, and your answer, will save anyone else's blushes!

[Mikexx]

In the end I used 4 cable ties to bring the dipstick max line line up with the oil level.

 

After various stories here I am just as worried with the oil level going up as well as going down!

[Daltonn]

Checking your boat’s engine oil should be done 3 or 4 times every year. This frequency is enough to ensure that the engine can perform efficiently and your boat runs smoothly. Ensure that the lug nuts are tightened and the spare tire for the trailer is inflated, the trailer should be assembled properly. It’s advisable to use stainless snap shackles rather than ratchet straps. Don’t forget to check the coupler as well. It should be locked down to the hitch ball. Make sure that there’s no spill on the master cylinder cap seal and brake fluid.

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, Daltonn said:

Checking your boat’s engine oil should be done 3 or 4 times every year. This frequency is enough to ensure that the engine can perform efficiently and your boat runs smoothly. Ensure that the lug nuts are tightened and the spare tire for the trailer is inflated, the trailer should be assembled properly. It’s advisable to use stainless snap shackles rather than ratchet straps. Don’t forget to check the coupler as well. It should be locked down to the hitch ball. Make sure that there’s no spill on the master cylinder cap seal and brake fluid.

 

Reported as likely chopped ham & pork.

Edited September 28, 2022 by Tony Brooks

[Athy]

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Reported as likely chopped ham & pork.

It appears to be advice form caravanners, with the word "caravan" replaced by "boat". Our boat doesn't have a trailer or a hitch ball. Daltonn, are you sure you've come to the right forum?

[David Mack]

5 minutes ago, Athy said:

It appears to be advice form caravanners, with the word "caravan" replaced by "boat". Our boat doesn't have a trailer or a hitch ball. Daltonn, are you sure you've come to the right forum?

A properly inflated spare tire could be useful for the Shroppie shelf.

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, Athy said:

It appears to be advice form caravanners, with the word "caravan" replaced by "boat". Our boat doesn't have a trailer or a hitch ball. Daltonn, are you sure you've come to the right forum?

 

It looks like another bot to me. Such advice that is there for caravanners is not very good, just an amalgam of what looks like copied phrases.

[Athy]

11 minutes ago, David Mack said:

A properly inflated spare tire could be useful for the Shroppie shelf.

When I was writing my post, I just KNEW that someone would mention that! Yes, we do carry one, a go-kart sized one.

[Mikexx]

2 hours ago, Daltonn said:

Checking your boat’s engine oil should be done 3 or 4 times every year. This frequency is enough to ensure that the engine can perform efficiently and your boat runs smoothly.

 

A seized engine from loss of oil after a couple of months will not run smoothly.

 

2 hours ago, Daltonn said:

Ensure that the lug nuts are tightened and the spare tire for the trailer is inflated, the trailer should be assembled properly.

 

The marina's responsibility when they haul the boat out

 

2 hours ago, Daltonn said:

It’s advisable to use stainless snap shackles rather than ratchet straps.

 

Advisable for bondage.

 

2 hours ago, Daltonn said:

Don’t forget to check the coupler as well.

 

Difficult to use these shackles all by yourself, some form of mutual co-operation might be required.

 

2 hours ago, Daltonn said:

Make sure that there’s no spill on the master cylinder cap seal and brake fluid.

 

Nothing some tissues won't resolve.