Brass toe steps

[vanboosh]

I've got 4 x brass toe steps I've never used as I can jump onto the roof relatively easily, but the missus struggles a bit, so I think its time I fitted at least two of them. Anyone have any advice? I've never screwed anything into the outside of the boat... I assume drill/tap and maybe sikaflex? Stainless bolts? M5? 

[Tracy D'arth]

Brass set screws to match, as big as the holes in the steps, in tapped holes. Sealer behind is a good idea to stop water getting into the threads and starting rust.

[jonathanA]

 Drilled and tapped.I tend to use hex socket headed stainless M5 or M6. 

I just use copper grease or a good grease rather than silicon gunge on the threads.

[BEngo]

Ensure you seal the threads and where the steps sit on the side.  If not, the toe steps trap water between step and boat and rust sets in behind the step.  It can be hard to see the rust until there is a lot of it.

 

I find a non setting butyl sealant works a treat and you can get off easily if needed.

 

N

[OldGoat]

I think / recon / know that (drilling and) tapping into a steel is A BAD IDEA becuase once corroded you (almost certainly ) can't get them out.

It's better to drill a clearance hole and put a stainless steel screw and lock nut through the hull. If there's proper panelling on the inside, a little judicious effort in getting the length of screws right right makes the job done proper and the fixings internally unobtrusive.

Seemingly more effort - but it isn't really.....

[David Mack]

22 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

I think / recon / know that (drilling and) tapping into a steel is A BAD IDEA becuase once corroded you (almost certainly ) can't get them out.

The other day I tried to remove a mushroom vent which I had fitted with brass screws tapped into the steel roof about 3 years ago. Two of the screws came out fine, the other two wouldn't shift, and I may have to drill them out!

[David Mack]

25 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

It's better to drill a clearance hole and put a stainless steel screw and lock nut through the hull. If there's proper panelling on the inside, a little judicious effort in getting the length of screws right right makes the job done proper and the fixings internally unobtrusive.

Seemingly more effort - but it isn't really.....

But unless you are fixing where there is a stout batten under the lining, then you will not get a firm enough fixing for an external step. If you are going to use a through bolt and nut you will have to tighten it against the inside of the shell, and that means removing or drilling through the cabin lining and the insulation.

[Tracy D'arth]

42 minutes ago, David Mack said:

The other day I tried to remove a mushroom vent which I had fitted with brass screws tapped into the steel roof about 3 years ago. Two of the screws came out fine, the other two wouldn't shift, and I may have to drill them out!

I would rather take brass screws out of steel than steel screws.  Judicious use of a hammer or impact driver will shift them.

[jonathanA]

41 minutes ago, David Mack said:

The other day I tried to remove a mushroom vent which I had fitted with brass screws tapped into the steel roof about 3 years ago. Two of the screws came out fine, the other two wouldn't shift, and I may have to drill them out!

The problem with brass screws is the slots mash up or they snap. Still they are easy to drill out ! 

[blackrose]

8 hours ago, jonathanA said:

 I just use copper grease or a good grease rather than silicon gunge on the threads.

 

Grease is fine on the threads, but the fitting itself should be bedded in with a sealant (not silicone) to prevent water being trapped between the fitting and the hull. Grease may not take up any unevenness between the mating surfaces. I always use a good PU sealant.