Jump to content

Disabling back boiler on diesel stove


Featured Posts

I have a Lockgate Hestia diesel stove with back boiler serving radiators and  would like to just run the stove on its own. I’m aware of the dangers of running one ‘dry’  (explosion!). Any suggestions how to do this permanently and safely? Removing stove and installing a multi fuel stove is not an option!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will only explode if there is water in the coil/boiler so drain down the system, cap off the feed to the rads but leave the boiler/coil connections open and drain as much as possible. Then a low fire until all the liquid in the boiler/coil has evaporated. Note that some actual back boilers are glass coated on the inside, and they may be damaged by being heated dry. It is also often recommended that back boilers are filled with dry sand. Always leave the coil/boiler inlet and outlet port open.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

It is also often recommended that back boilers are filled with dry sand.

 

Yes I've seen this too although I've never quite understood why. I've also seen it recommended to drill a hole through the HE to permanently disable it as it is considered once a HE has been run empty on a regular basis as it may crack and no longer be safe to use. The hole prevents someone later trying to re-fill it with water and use it again. I'm not convinced personally either the sand or the hole is necessary.

 

Or maybe the sand is to mainly prevent re-commissioning too.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Me neither, if it is dry and can breathe as any air it contains expands and contracts. Hence my words "often recommended".

 

 

Yeah, I think the people giving that recommendation consider it a one-way street. Once a H.E. has been run empty it should never be filled with water again and used. I don't see why not, personally, so my view is such advice can be ignored.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Why do you want to do that? 

There are only 3 rads on the circuit - kitchen, bedroom and engine room (back cabin has multi fuel stove). Engine room is not required, we prefer the bedroom cold(ish) and the kitchen, apart from residual heat from cooking, is only 6 feet from the diesel stove. I know the rads can be turned off, but the main reason is so I do not have to have the c/h pump running the whole time the stove is lit. Haven't been through a winter on this boat yet, but previous experience with diesel stove is that leaving it running 24/7 on the lowest setting during really cold weather keeps the boat at a really comfortable level and I don't want the pump on all the time.. More expensive than solid fuel, but my asthma prefers it!

eta - thanks for the suggestions

early Sunday morning brain fart - for 'kitchen' read 'bathroom' (which is also fairly close to the stove)

Edited by Mike Tee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

. I'm not convinced personally either the sand or the hole is necessary.

 

Or maybe the sand is to mainly prevent re-commissioning too.

 

 

The sand 'converts' the boiler into a firebrick, so the heat is retained where it is most effective. Often done with vapourising cookers where replacing a boiler is not an economic option, but the heat is retained for the oven.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

The sand 'converts' the boiler into a firebrick, so the heat is retained where it is most effective. Often done with vapourising cookers where replacing a boiler is not an economic option, but the heat is retained for the oven.

 

But the heat is wanted outside the stove in the boat, not trapped inside the stove. I don't think the above holds good for a diesel stove but might on a solid fuel one where internla heat MIGHT be more important for combustion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sand, not a good insulator, will  help conduct heat across the boiler space where the water was ( helping get the heat from burner to room) and should  reduce the possibility of localised hot spots on the boiler.  These are likely to fail sooner.

 

Whether or not a localised burn out would be a problem depends on the design of the stove and boiler.  My guess is that most stoves would not have a problem.

 

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I go the 'sand' route, apart from the expected mess in trying to get it in, obviously leave the bottom pipe connection covered (to keep the sand in), but should the top pipe hole be sealed or left to breath? Or just leave it empty with both holes open, as suggested, and stop bothering?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.