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Can I ask for advice on what top coat paint people would recommend for a wet bathroom floor? Rust had come through the previous one, which I’ve sanded back and treated and now primed ready for painting. It doesn’t need to be particularly slip resistant though that would be beneficial.

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35 minutes ago, Jerty said:

Can I ask for advice on what top coat paint people would recommend for a wet bathroom floor? Rust had come through the previous one, which I’ve sanded back and treated and now primed ready for painting. It doesn’t need to be particularly slip resistant though that would be beneficial.

I would suggest epoxy onto bare prepared steel, grit blasted if possible.

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I’ve used POR15…the complete system from the cleaner via the rust converter & primer to the top coat with good results on my wet room steel. I prepped it really well tho removing as much rust as possible without grit blasting. It’s not a cheap option tho for the complete system 

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As you've already primed your choice is going to be limited by what will work with your primer.

It's no good using epoxy if you haven't used an appropriate primer. You either need to use the appropriate undercoat and topcoat for the primer you've already applied, or strip it back and start again.

Edited by Barneyp
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6 hours ago, Jerty said:

Can I ask for advice on what top coat paint people would recommend for a wet bathroom floor? Rust had come through the previous one, which I’ve sanded back and treated and now primed ready for painting. It doesn’t need to be particularly slip resistant though that would be beneficial.

 

I don't understand this at all. You're talking about a non-slip paint being beneficial. Are you standing directly on the baseplate in your bathroom? It must be bloody freezing in winter when you step out the shower!

 

As the previous poster has said, since you've already treated the rust and primed the surface you can't really use epoxy (well you could but there's not much point). 

 

When you say "wet bathroom floor" do you  mean it got wet previously due to a leak or do you mean that's the intended design of the drainage? If it's the latter how is the water contained and expelled? Does it drain through other parts of the bilges? 

 

If it's designed to be a wet bilge it sounds horrible and I'd suggest a different arrangement. Also any single pack paint system won't cope with being continually submerged for long and you'll be de-rusting and repainting it again soon. As others have said, only epoxy will work long term in that situation but epoxy should be applied to bare steel.

 

If I've misunderstood my apologies, but I think you'll need to give some more information to get some more definitive answers.

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks very much for your advice. It sounds like I need to strip back and start again with one of the systems that you recommend.

 

It’s a tiny bathroom, with a wet room floor (ie no shower tray) which drains to a sump that’s then pumped out once done, so not permanently wet.

 

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If it doesn't stay wet then I wouldn't strip it all back to steel. If you want a single part non slip top coat try International Interdeck but you'll need to key the primer you've used and paint a couple of coats of undercoat on first. Topcoats don't normally go straight on top of primer unless it's a primer/undercoat. The general rule with single part paints is that unless you get the next coat on within about 3 days you need to key the surface with medium/fine sandpaper or those green scouring pads (say 240 grit) to achieve good interlayer bonding. Wipe it clean after abrading with a little white spirit.

 

It might last a few years then next time strip it all back and epoxy it.

Edited by blackrose
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