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Red Port Navigation Lens.


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Accidentally broke glass Port Navigation Lens - clumsy.

 

Ordered what appeared to be replacement from Midland Chandler but unfortunately, instead of item similar to shown in advertisement, was sent a plastic replacement item.

 

Original:-

image.jpeg.64c3a89759fb0943a6b62e61ccce225c.jpeg

Replacement:-

image.jpeg.e69341ff42832755adc5768f145a59d3.jpeg

 

I would be grateful if some could either supply or provide contact detail from where I could obtain item similar to Original.

 

Regards and Thanks

Brian.

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23 minutes ago, Brian422 said:

I'd like to use original because, unless dropped, glass is more durable than plastic which tends to degrade.

One could say the new plastic one will last longer than the original glass one. How many hours a week do you have your navigation lights on for?

Edited by ditchcrawler
I did it again
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The plastic lens in my 'toy' nav lights have lasted 20 years without any obvious deterioration. Mind you that could be because they're never been used in anger. Their greatest enemy is the Harecastle tunnel. 💥

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How quaint - a navigation light and - presumably used...

(I jest)

 

I see the example came from Sheridan Marine - the home of older craft on the Thames and accordingly should be treasuered.

 

I wonder whether the OP might look for salty stuff 'proper' marine chandlers where glass lenses would be othe order of the day?

 

Arthur Beale stock the light from Timage - thus may be able to help with a lense??

Edited by OldGoat
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1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

Arthur Beale stock the light from Timage - thus may be able to help with a lens??

I used to walk past Arthur Beale on Shaftsbury Ave every day - I didn't realise they went online rather than "shut up shop" and, in a way, I'm glad.

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Not the answer that the OP wants - but from a matter of practicality, the plastic lenses transmit a lot more light than the glass ones - so are better at doing their intended job.

If you really must have a glass one, how about  -

painting the inside of a clear lense, red 

or

fitting a red sweet wrapper (or similar) inside a plain lens?

Neither are really satisfactory but may provide a temporary solution.

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22 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

Not the answer that the OP wants - but from a matter of practicality, the plastic lenses transmit a lot more light than the glass ones - so are better at doing their intended job.

If you really must have a glass one, how about  -

painting the inside of a clear lense, red 

or

fitting a red sweet wrapper (or similar) inside a plain lens?

Neither are really satisfactory but may provide a temporary solution.

Or a clear lens and a red bulb ----  easy now with really red LEDs

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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Or a clear lens and a red bulb ----  easy now with really red LEDs

 

If you are going to the trouble of fitting correct navigation lights it is important to get the right quality of light - the majority of LEDS fail to meet the specifications and only certain (expensive ones) pass, or light fittings designed specifically for LED bulbs.

 

There was a press release from the RYA about it - from memory is was something about the colour aberations at the extremities

 

 

I was close - here was the story in PBO :

 

 

 

Replacing filament bulbs with white LEDs in tricolour navigational lights could result in vessels not being insured, the Cruising Association (CA) has warned.

Coloured light fittings designed to use filament bulbs are not suitable for LEDs, claim the CA’s Regulation and Technical Services team (RATS), and therefore in the event of an incident could invalidate insurance.

White LEDs do not emit the wavelengths required to correctly illuminate the red and green sectors, and, as a result the colours observed are totally outside of the IMO specifications.

In addition, a tungsten filament bulb has a single vertical wire as the light source, whereas LEDs emit light path angles greater than the permitted 2 degree cut-off limit between tricolour sectors. A boat’s heading will therefore be unclear to another vessel over a significant arc, and, the merging beams will give strange colours as they overlap.

 

This issue does not affect navigation light fittings designed to take LED bulbs.

  • Greenie 1
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4 hours ago, 1st ade said:

I used to walk past Arthur Beale on Shaftsbury Ave every day - I didn't realise they went online rather than "shut up shop" and, in a way, I'm glad.

Is O M Watts still there? There was another chandler's near to Gt Ormands Street tube, can't remember the name.

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Ahh - happy days!

I spent my formative years and 'professional training'  in London (city) mixed in with various hobbies - thus it's interesting to recall addresses connected with boating and  not business. Miss it but not trhe travel!

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13 minutes ago, Ronaldo47 said:

Our Hillman Imp was some 35 years old when it was scrapped. The original red plastic  lenses of its Lucas rear lights  had shown no sign of deterioration. 

 

 

If it was like many that I knew, it was likely because it rarely made it out of the garage.

 

Joking, I liked the fire pump engined buzz box.  Had a few over the years.  Californian?

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13 minutes ago, Ronaldo47 said:

No, just the "Super". This was it with my nephew standing next to it in 1970, shortly after I had bought it. 

197008_31c.jpg

Smart. This was before you put 2 bags of sand in the front then?

 

Never understood the "radiator grill" on the front.

 

Why do electric cars have radiator grills?

Edited by Tracy D'arth
+
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No sand, but following advice from motor-savvy friends,  I had loaded the boot with a number of heavy engineering tools such as  large spanners and stillson wrenches inherited from my late father! It certainly held the road well, despite only ever having been fitted with crossply tyres. 

 

 

Edited by Ronaldo47
typos
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We had a "Limp", my mother learnt to drive in it and many, many years later when she changed it for a newer car it was given to us for my wife to learn to drive in.

It did a huge number of miles over its life, but when we had it I could not stop it losing water - I replaced the radiator, the hoses, tried egg whites and radweld, nothing would stop the loss of water (no it wasn't getting into the oil).

 

It became my every Saturday morning job to take the engine out and try something new. The engine had to come out to get to the radiator and most other parts.

It got to be that it literally took 10 minutes.

 

Trolley jack under the engine.

Remove 4 bolts holding engine to rear cross member

Remove bumper

Remove 8 (?) bolts around the bell housing

Disconnect hoses

 

Pull trolley out and the engine came with it.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

We had a "Limp", my mother learnt to drive in it and many, many years later when she changed it for a newer car it was given to us for my wife to learn to drive in.

It did a huge number of miles over its life, but when we had it I could not stop it losing water - I replaced the radiator, the hoses, tried egg whites and radweld, nothing would stop the loss of water (no it wasn't getting into the oil).

 

It became my every Saturday morning job to take the engine out and try something new. The engine had to come out to get to the radiator and most other parts.

It got to be that it literally took 10 minutes.

 

Trolley jack under the engine.

Remove 4 bolts holding engine to rear cross member

Remove bumper

Remove 8 (?) bolts around the bell housing

Disconnect hoses

 

Pull trolley out and the engine came with it.

Did you never find the leaking heater hose or the control valve up under the front footwell?  They used to leak for fun when they got old and cracked.

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Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

Did you never find the leaking heater hose or the control valve up under the front footwell?  They used to leak for fun when they got old and cracked.

 

No, never found it.

After a couple of years did a part-x for a MG Metro Turbo

 

I had a company car so she always wanted something a 'bit different'.

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28 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Smart. This was before you put 2 bags of sand in the front then?

 

Never understood the "radiator grill" on the front.

 

Why do electric cars have radiator grills?

My sister had an Imp, never tried sand in the boot. Before she bought the Imp she had a Fiat 600. Not the 600D. It had a 633cc engine and suicide doors. That one drove far more positively with a 5 gallon container of water in the boot

  • Haha 1
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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

If you are going to the trouble of fitting correct navigation lights it is important to get the right quality of light - the majority of LEDS fail to meet the specifications and only certain (expensive ones) pass, or light fittings designed specifically for LED bulbs.

 

There was a press release from the RYA about it - from memory is was something about the colour aberations at the extremities

 

 

I was close - here was the story in PBO :

 

 

 

Replacing filament bulbs with white LEDs in tricolour navigational lights could result in vessels not being insured, the Cruising Association (CA) has warned.

Coloured light fittings designed to use filament bulbs are not suitable for LEDs, claim the CA’s Regulation and Technical Services team (RATS), and therefore in the event of an incident could invalidate insurance.

White LEDs do not emit the wavelengths required to correctly illuminate the red and green sectors, and, as a result the colours observed are totally outside of the IMO specifications.

In addition, a tungsten filament bulb has a single vertical wire as the light source, whereas LEDs emit light path angles greater than the permitted 2 degree cut-off limit between tricolour sectors. A boat’s heading will therefore be unclear to another vessel over a significant arc, and, the merging beams will give strange colours as they overlap.

 

This issue does not affect navigation light fittings designed to take LED bulbs.

I thought it was a red one not a tricolour one 

image.png.9e765e919cf206733065abb08ba0c87a.png

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