Solid fuel stove handle

[LadyG]

Where would I find such an artefact, are they universal fit?

[TheBiscuits]

4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Where would I find such an artefact, are they universal fit?

 

Is it a squirrel?

 

https://www.stovesupermarket.co.uk/collections/morso-squirrel-1410-spares/products/79118300-morso-squirrel-72mm-bakelite-handle

 

or

 

https://www.stovesupermarket.co.uk/collections/morso-squirrel-1410-spares/products/79118200-morso-squirrel-36mm-handle

[Tracy D'arth]

Many different even for the same make and model.  Picture? 

[MtB]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

Where would I find such an artefact, are they universal fit?

 

 

Have a look on the front of your stove. You should be able to find one there....

 

 

[LadyG]

Very amusing, but there is no makers name, I was thinking it might be made in 

china

[MtB]

3 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Very amusing, but there is no makers name, I was thinking it might be made in 

china

 

 

Photo of the stove is necessary to be of any real help....

 

 

[LadyG]

Photo

[TheBiscuits]

What's wrong with the handle? It looks OK in the picture.

[LadyG]

It does not lock stove

Another photo

 

[TheBiscuits]

 

Oh, and the stove looks like it's this one (or a knockoff of it!)

 

http://www.sunfirestove.com/mod_product-view-p_id-302.html

1 minute ago, LadyG said:

It does not lock stove

Another photo

 

 

 

Remove the nuts, remove the locking bar, straighten the bar with a hammer, reattach bar & nuts.

 

Just how hard did you pull it Jo? 

[Tony Brooks]

I think the flat metal bar on the inside may not be the original and has possibly beet of shape bent out of shape. In fact  am not sure it is the original part.

 

For a start I would try to bend it in a sort of Z shape so the free end will just pass behind the stove front. Then I would give it a twist so that as as you turn the handle to shut the stove the twist forms a wedge to pull the door shut. Sorry, can't put that in words any better but I am sure that if you looked at some other boater's stove you would see what I am on about.

6 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

Oh, and the stove looks like it's this one (or a knockoff of it!)

 

http://www.sunfirestove.com/mod_product-view-p_id-302.html

 

 

Remove the nuts, remove the locking bar, straighten the bar with a hammer, reattach bar & nuts.

 

Just how hard did you pull it Jo? 

 

I agree it is the locking bar that needs reshaping and I doubt spares are available unless one from a UK stove maker fits.

[LadyG]

5 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

Oh, and the stove looks like it's this one (or a knockoff of it!)

 

http://www.sunfirestove.com/mod_product-view-p_id-302.html

 

 

Remove the nuts, remove the locking bar, straighten the bar with a hammer, reattach bar & nuts.

 

Just how hard did you pull it Jo? 

It's just been in for repair, replacement bar, ie a bit of steel, 

I had to bend the bit of steel, see pliar things.

Its no better than it was,  threaded steel sticking out of handle, with a bit of steel held in place with a nut

 

[TheBiscuits]

 

Has it just worked loose?  The locking bar seems to be at different angles to the handle in the two pictures.

 

It might just need to be tightened up when it's cold.

[LadyG]

I won't tighten up until it's actually locking the stove, that is the main problem

I won't tighten up until it's actually locking the stove, that is the main problem

It was a bodge before, and it's still a bodge.,  I was hoping I could get a proper fitting.

This is the same design as the earlier design, I use that expression loosely.

There is a threaded bolt emerging on the inside, to which some washers and nuts hold a bar,

The bar is supposed to lock the door

 

Edited May 3, 2022 by LadyG

[smiler]

8 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I won't tighten up until it's actually locking the stove, that is the main problem

I won't tighten up until it's actually locking the stove, that is the main problem

It was a bodge before, and it's still a bodge.,  I was hoping I could get a proper fitting.

This is the same design as the earlier design, I use that expression loosely.

There is a threaded bolt emerging on the inside, to which some washers and nuts hold a bar,

The bar is supposed to lock the door

 

I think you need a better bodge.😁

[Tracy D'arth]

Its a simple blacksmithing job. A handy lad at a marina?

[Tony Brooks]

5 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Its a simple blacksmithing job. A handy lad at a marina?

 

I agree but I suspect the threaded section the bar fits on needs two flats filing on it with a corresponding hole in the bar so the thread can't twist in the bar. Unless the inside of the stove body has a wedge cast in to it I am sure the locking bar needs a twist in it so itself acts as a wedge when it is twisted into place.

[LadyG]

Yes, I've asked the lads at the marina workshop  to look at the stove in situ, but they dont  want to, not much more I can do.

[Hudds Lad]

try emailing a pic to someone like https://www.woodburner-spares.co.uk/ and see if they can help?

[alias]

This might be worth a try: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353778241000

 

[David Mack]

2 hours ago, LadyG said:

 

I had to bend the bit of steel, see pliar things.

Its no better than it was,  threaded steel sticking out of handle, with a bit of steel held in place with a nut

 

The bit of steel looks to be too thin to do the job. If you can bend it with pliers in-situ then it just just going to bend out of the way as soon as you try and tighten the door shut. It needs to be something thick enough you can only bend it by hammering it in a vice.

[Tony Brooks]

You really need to look at how the door gets pulled against the stove front when you close the door. A flat piece of steel will only pull in if the back of the front plate has a slope or wedge cast in so as you twist the handle the bar slides up/down the slope/wedge. If the back of the front plate is flat the the locking bar needs a twist so it forms the wedge to pull the door against the stove front.

 

The  Ebay link will probably work if there is a wedge  on the back of the stove front. If there is not then a few moments with a welding torch, hammer and vice would get the "twist" into the bar.

[Tracy D'arth]

20 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

You really need to look at how the door gets pulled against the stove front when you close the door. A flat piece of steel will only pull in if the back of the front plate has a slope or wedge cast in so as you twist the handle the bar slides up/down the slope/wedge. If the back of the front plate is flat the the locking bar needs a twist so it forms the wedge to pull the door against the stove front.

 

The  Ebay link will probably work if there is a wedge  on the back of the stove front. If there is not then a few moments with a welding torch, hammer and vice would get the "twist" into the bar.

The lady is not very good when it comes to metalworking..................😆

[blackrose]

It's warming up now. You've got the whole summer to sort it out so no need to panic and do another bad bodge. As David said, if you can bend it with pliers then it's too thin and will just bend out as you're trying to tighten the door. 

 

You shouldn't actually need to tighten the door against the stove that tightly. Have a look on the inside of stove where the plate connects when you close it and identify that wedge. It works like a cam converting rotational movement to linear force. Once you understand how it works you can experiment with different bits of plate until you find something that works.

 

My door catch is actually a rod rather than a plate.

 

15 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

The lady is not very good when it comes to metalworking..................😆

 

That does make things more difficult.

Edited May 3, 2022 by blackrose

[Tony Brooks]

22 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

The lady is not very good when it comes to metalworking..................😆

 

If she were closer I would happily fabricate anew bar and file the shaft it that was required but she is not and I think it will need a degree of fitting to the stove.