Biggles Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 Thanks for the link. Did 1 set of heads do your complete roof? Mine is a WB too and I have about 30sq/m to get down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow and Steady Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) These Tercoo things are supposed to be pretty good, I've never tried one but I'd be tempted. Generally, from chatting up boat painters, if the paint is thick, scabblers and tercoo which batter/chip the paint off work well but if the paint is fairly thin and well bonded they struggle and a poly abrasive disc works better. It's a bit of a job however you approach it. Edited April 25, 2022 by Slow and Steady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 16 hours ago, Hartlebury lad said: I think if you catch the knocks and spots early, back to metal on those, and keep recoating all the rest every few years ? .Oddly, the roof doesnt bother me nowhere near as much as the higher profile sides.. At least you get to see the results of your hard work whilst steering! That's what I do, go over the roof once every couple of years taking any rust spots back to bare metal, patch priming and painting. Two years ago at the start of covid I gave the whole roof two fresh coats of non-slip deck paint. The only thing I've neglected to do is fill in all the divots I've made with the grinder & wire wheels. I don't rate filler/primer as a primer and can't be bothered to use filler, so my roof Is a very uneven surface, but I don't really care about the appearance of my decks as long as they aren't rusty. Also, the non-slip deck paint I use covers a multitude of sins. You only really see the unevenness of my roof in the morning or evening sunshine. If I ever was to take my entire roof back to bare steel I'd definitely put 3 coats of epoxy over it. 6 hours ago, Greg & Jax said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372485192524?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zT-uGXJ5QTm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OQadPeFiTAy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Thats the one I bought . Wouldn't that need the correct heads for steel or can the concrete heads do steel too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgs Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) 9 minutes ago, blackrose said: Wouldn't that need the correct heads for steel or can the concrete heads do steel too? Those designed for concrete would be better, especially if the roof was sand-coated. Harder wearing. Edited April 25, 2022 by Higgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) Hi , I ruined a set of heads learning how to use it then I bought two extra sets and mixed an matched any I broke I had almost a full set left at the end . There is a knack of how to use it but I didnt read instructions and just went for it A man thing hey ho . The heads that are on it in the picture are the one,s i used . Edited April 25, 2022 by Greg & Jax Added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 I found. A smooth sweeping action from left to right . Push lightly and you do get the feel of how it works and how much pressure is needed . To much pressure broke the spinning blades but they all come off and just replace individual one,s as and when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 13 hours ago, Greg & Jax said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372485192524?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zT-uGXJ5QTm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OQadPeFiTAy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Thats the one I bought . Looks to me as though if you left it running in one place for more than a few seconds, you'd end up with a nice neat new flue hole through your roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 7 hours ago, Higgs said: Those designed for concrete would be better, especially if the roof was sand-coated. Harder wearing. Ok. I read something on the forum about the ones for hire from Brandon tool hire several years ago and I thought the consensus was that you needed the correct heads for steel surfaces but I could be wrong. I've never used one but I'd like to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) This is the photo today from the marina manager. Edited April 25, 2022 by Biggles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 20 minutes ago, Biggles said: This is the photo today from the marina manager. That looks like the roof repaint is looooooooong overdue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgs Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, blackrose said: Ok. I read something on the forum about the ones for hire from Brandon tool hire several years ago and I thought the consensus was that you needed the correct heads for steel surfaces but I could be wrong. I've never used one but I'd like to try. I should qualify what I wrote. In all the time I used a scabbler, in a professional capacity, I always had the star wheels on that were best for concrete. Over the years, I had many sand coated roofs to strip. Because of this, I never bothered to use any other star wheels. That scabbler setup was occasionally used to strip cabin sides and gunnels, without a problem. But the most useful and most frequently used tool was a Metabo orbital sander, 150mm, and 80 grit, for the aggressive preliminary work. But of course, not for sand coated surfaces. The scabbler would clear the roof on a 60' narrowboat in about 2hrs. Prior to having a scabbler handy, I might spend 3 to 4 days scraping a roof. I'm surprised my wrists are still ok. Edited April 26, 2022 by Higgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Biggles said: This is the photo today from the marina manager. Looks like most of the paint is already off! I don't know if a scrabbler can remove rust back to bright steel? If not I'd just get going with angle grinder and wire wheels doing one square section at time back to steel, vacuuming, spirit wiping and painting on a couple of coats of epoxy as a primer or whatever single part primer you want to use. Don't attempt to prep a larger section in one go because by the time you've finished moisture will have got to the steel and it will start gingering. Whatever primer, undercoats and topcoats you use, get the technical data sheets for the paint and pay attention to the maximum overcoating times for best interlayer adhesion. Generally for single part paints it's about 3 days. If you exceed these times then you have to key the previous painted surface before the next coat. That's another reason to work on smaller sections, at least until you come to the final topcoats. Edited April 26, 2022 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 6 hours ago, Biggles said: This is the photo today from the marina manager. Having seen that, my earlier comments about not removing all paint is rubbish! thats quite a job!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles Posted April 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 1 hour ago, robtheplod said: Having seen that, my earlier comments about not removing all paint is rubbish! thats quite a job!!!!!! I did say in the OP it has to come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 10 hours ago, Biggles said: This is the photo today from the marina manager. I quite like that effect. I'd give it a coat or two of matt varnish and leave it at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 The scabbler would not remove the rust on your roof only the paint also the scabblers teeth don't touch the roof until the pressure is applied ., after seeing the pics there,s not a lot of paint left on . Its a big roof to tackle though , I'd be definitely putting a few coats of vactan on it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow and Steady Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) Try a poly abrasive disc on an angle grinder, it should remove all that rust apart from the pits and won't damage the steel - you'll be surprised. But, really it needs media blasting. Edited April 26, 2022 by Slow and Steady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 A wire wheel on an angle grinder will get into the pits if you know what you're doing but a whole roof of that size is a lot of work. My dad used to run a small power tool company in the 70s and 80s supplying car body shops. One summer I went out on the road demonstrating a machine they called a suction blaster which was basically a small grit blaster/vacuum unit which recycled the grit. The blasting was done via a nozzle/brush on the end of a hose so the grit didn't escape. It was only for small areas but it was a good bit of kit. I sometimes wonder why they don't make bigger units like that for larger areas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 1 hour ago, blackrose said: It was only for small areas but it was a good bit of kit. I sometimes wonder why they don't make bigger units like that for larger areas? Like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 26, 2022 Report Share Posted April 26, 2022 Yes that looks like it might work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted April 27, 2022 Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 23 hours ago, Biggles said: I did say in the OP it has to come off. True, but difficult to imagine... you could keep the 'rat' look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudds Lad Posted April 27, 2022 Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 3 minutes ago, robtheplod said: True, but difficult to imagine... you could keep the 'rat' look? Its funny, I've seen live rats, i’ve seen dead rats, i’ve never seen a rusty one 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted April 27, 2022 Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 3 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said: Its funny, I've seen live rats, i’ve seen dead rats, i’ve never seen a rusty one 🤔 ah this is from my time in the car world.... rat look cars look rough but have hidden and unexpected speed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles Posted April 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 10 hours ago, ditchcrawler said: Like this Love it Brian, now try hiring one in France. Can't even get a compressor and pot type system quoted until I can tell them exactly when and how long I want it for. Not even a simple day / week rate quote. They do things very differently out there sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted April 27, 2022 Report Share Posted April 27, 2022 On 24/04/2022 at 22:23, Hartlebury lad said: I think if you catch the knocks and spots early, back to metal on those, and keep recoating all the rest every few years ? .Oddly, the roof doesnt bother me nowhere near as much as the higher profile sides.. At least you get to see the results of your hard work whilst steering! The only place with rust bubbles in under the solar panels. Out of sight out of mind for a year I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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