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Side hatch / Duck hatch woodwork.


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Good afternoon all, I hope we are all well and in good health.

 

A quick question,

I need to replace the woodwork on one of my hatches, it wood appear that the woodwork is actually MDF, and as you wood expect, utterly shite at keeping damp out. Its blown with the moisture and is in need of replacing.

My quick question is how wood it be attached to the steel doors ?

This is before I rip it off and then realise I have no way of bolting it shut again.

 

I'll be replacing it with actual wood, varnished and sealed from moisture.

 

Any help, advice very much appreciated.

Apologies for the excessive use of wood in the wrong context, however it amuses me so tough.

Cheers all.

 

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If you want to bond the new wooden linings on rather than using screws then use a good polyurethane adhesive/sealant. Sikaflex does a rather confusing range and then there is Marineflex, Stixall, CT-5, etc.

 

Once you've got all the old MDF off and have a good steel surface, key both surfaces and clean with a bit of white spirit, then stick on the new wood. You might need to clamp it into place for 24 hours, but generally large surface areas will have good instant grab and won't move. Depends on the thickness and weight of the wood.

Edited by blackrose
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Just as above, I wouldn’t use countersunk screws from the outside, as you would have to drill, prep, fill and repaint, if not done right over time these will show up. If you look at boats that have done it this way on hatches and doors, you can often see the round screw head recesses through the paint. 

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33 minutes ago, RollingFoggy said:

Thanks for the help/ advice.

So basically , make some nice new ones up, then rip out the old and glue in the new.

 

Cheers.

What wood will you plan to use? I’m wondering if the weight of  hardwood could be pretty  heavy for the door hinges perhaps?
Modern pine is often rubbish with insufficient sap/ resin to help as a preservative and often seems to rot very easily in spite of good prep. Western red cedar would perhaps do well but is costly. 
Despite its cost good marine ply maybe a thought? Has it always been the cost it is now, or is it a pandemic phenomenon? ☹️ You can get it cut the right size for cheaper.

Some of our doors marine ply have lost its paint on the edges but hasn’t blown at all and will repaint just fine. (25 years old)

 

if the old ones were screwed through that’s not such fun to deal with, possibly grind them off (but would that disturb the filler on the outside from heat)or counter drill holes into the new wood where they are? If they are MDF  it seems more likely they would have been  fixed with some adhesive? 

 

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The difficult bit is the edges of the wood. ordinary exterior ply is fine but it needs edging with hardwood if it is exposed to damp, if it is overlapped by the steel then thats sort of OK but raw edges if endgrain or ply are vulnerable.

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^ Excellent example of how not to do it if you want it to last. e.g.

Fit boards before painting.

Primer is no use as a waterproof sealer.

Cheap ply won't last unless it has been properly sealed.

Primer will not stop that rust.

Random glue will stick it but a continuous bead around the perimeter would have helped keeping the damp from getting around to the back.

 

What it is a good example of is tarting something up for the short term/doing the least possible and hoping for the best against all common sense. :)

 

When I did my rear doors (same construction) they got about 20 coats of varnish around the edges after filling any voids in the ply and 10 coats front and back.

Edited by Slow and Steady
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24 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said:

Hi guys .

I've just replaced my hatch  doors and frame .

I've used ct1 to stick the doors to the steel  its worked a treat .

 

20220417_200836.jpg

Looks terrific. What sort of wood are we looking at and did it need any prep on the reverse?

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Hi puffling .

This is American  white oak with a dark oak stain on it varnished all over and glued using ct1 . Sealed all round and as of yet 3 coats of varnish. 

I do intend a few more coats of varnish .

At the moment most available oak is American white oak .

These  did replace English oak one,s that had split as they where only 10mm thick and water had got behind them .

 

Edited by Greg & Jax
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10 hours ago, Greg & Jax said:

Hi puffling .

This is American  white oak with a dark oak stain on it varnished all over and glued using ct1 . Sealed all round and as of yet 3 coats of varnish. 

I do intend a few more coats of varnish .

At the moment most available oak is American white oak .

These  did replace English oak one,s that had split as they where only 10mm thick and water had got behind them .

 

Thanks for the information. I need to do my hatches soon and had more or less settled on using painted plywood, mainly due to the availability of solid hardwoods.

Have to admit that the solid oak you've used gives a much better appearance of quality and depth. I'll see what the woodyards have; that American white oak seems a good solution.

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49 minutes ago, Puffling said:

Thanks for the information. I need to do my hatches soon and had more or less settled on using painted plywood, mainly due to the availability of solid hardwoods.

Have to admit that the solid oak you've used gives a much better appearance of quality and depth. I'll see what the woodyards have; that American white oak seems a good solution.

Oak supplier I have used a few times:

https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/

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I've recently done a bit of a refurbishment of the interior and removed all the cheap oak ( mdf ) architrave and moulding and replaced with the American oak .most of the oak came from a supplier in Leeds and the rest from Atlantic timber. 

The oak has become expensive recently I'm glad I'm nearly finished .

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24 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said:

 

I've recently done a bit of a refurbishment of the interior and removed all the cheap oak ( mdf ) architrave and moulding and replaced with the American oak .most of the oak came from a supplier in Leeds and the rest from Atlantic timber. 

The oak has become expensive recently I'm glad I'm nearly finished .

Thank you for your advice, it looks like you've done a really good job there, thanks for posting.

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