Battery problems

[MtB]

1 minute ago, Biafreespirit said:

Done. Now what? 

 

Start your engine, increase the revs and post a photo of the lights by the start key. And also a photo of that voltmeter please.

 

 

[Biafreespirit]

25 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Every boat tends to be different but usually close to the ignition or start switch there are some warning lamps and maybe an instrument or two plus perhaps a horn push and tunnel light switch. If the boat is a cruiser or semi-trand  the whole panel is likely to be outside, if it is  a trad the often on one side as you go down the steps into the boat. If you have boated to London or had the engine running you must know where the start key is. The lights are typically charge warning, oil pressure and overheat. We can tell a lot by seeing when they come on and when they go out, if they do. I have twice asked you about them with no answer.

 

Now I doubt anyone here expects you to know everything but I certainly expect you to ask if you don't know the answer to a question. If you want help you also need to help. As I and others explained, this forum is not the ideal place to get recommendations for tradespeople in London, but may well be the ideal place to help you solve the problem. We do understand starting on boat life is a very steep learning curve but there is nothing we can do about that apart from offer such help as we acn.

Thank you for your patience. Is it this one? 

[Alan de Enfield]

Start your engine and see if you can get any charge into the batteries.

Run at around 1200 revs (rpm) on the rev counter.

When you turn the key you should have a red light on the instrument panel, this light should go out when the engine is running and you rev the engine (use the throttle).

 

If the light goes out, the alternator is producing electricity and should be charging the batteries (unless there is a fault in the wiring). If the light remain glowing then there is another problem.

3 minutes ago, Biafreespirit said:

Thank you for your patience. Is it this one? 

 

 

When you turn the key 'on' you should get the little picture of the oil can glowing RED, and the bottom little picure (of a battery) should glow RED.

 

When the engine is running (at 1200 revs, that's two marks above the 10 on the rev-counter)) both of these lights should go out.

Edited February 20, 2022 by Alan de Enfield

[Biafreespirit]

3 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Start your engine, increase the revs and post a photo of the lights by the start key. And also a photo of that voltmeter please.

 

 

 

[Biafreespirit]

9 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Start your engine and see if you can get any charge into the batteries.

Run at around 1200 revs (rpm) on the rev counter.

When you turn the key you should have a red light on the instrument panel, this light should go out when the engine is running and you rev the engine (use the throttle).

 

If the light goes out, the alternator is producing electricity and should be charging the batteries (unless there is a fault in the wiring). If the light remain glowing then there is another problem.

 

 

When you turn the key 'on' you should get the little picture of the oil can glowing RED, and the bottom little picure (of a battery) should glow RED.

 

When the engine is running (at 1200 revs, that's two marks above the 10 on the rev-counter)) both of these lights should go out.

Yes, did that, light still on

[Tony Brooks]

1 minute ago, Biafreespirit said:

Thank you for your patience. Is it this one? 

 

Yes but you don't have an y proper lamps but you may have lamps below "cut outs" in that panel up the left hand side.

 

I can see an oil can (oil pressure warning lamp, a thermometer (overheat warning lamp) and a battery (charge lamp)

 

When you turn the ignition on all but the thermometer should light up. As soon as the engine starts the oil can should go out but if you leave it on idle/tickover the battery one may stay on but give the engine a rev and it should go completely out. up your hands around it and if it goes out and cemes back on dimly or if it stays or or glows then the alternator is probably not charging. If it does go out what does that voltmeter say?

 

We don't know how many alternators your engine  drives but from your replies I suspect it is one. If tat is the case you must have  a device to share the charge between the two battery banks so if the light goes out but the voltmeter does not go up then it suggests the charge splitter (whatever type you have) is faulty. Then the fun starts trying to find it and see what type it is.

[Biafreespirit]

2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Yes but you don't have an y proper lamps but you may have lamps below "cut outs" in that panel up the left hand side.

 

I can see an oil can (oil pressure warning lamp, a thermometer (overheat warning lamp) and a battery (charge lamp)

 

When you turn the ignition on all but the thermometer should light up. As soon as the engine starts the oil can should go out but if you leave it on idle/tickover the battery one may stay on but give the engine a rev and it should go completely out. up your hands around it and if it goes out and cemes back on dimly or if it stays or or glows then the alternator is probably not charging. If it does go out what does that voltmeter say?

 

We don't know how many alternators your engine  drives but from your replies I suspect it is one. If tat is the case you must have  a device to share the charge between the two battery banks so if the light goes out but the voltmeter does not go up then it suggests the charge splitter (whatever type you have) is faulty. Then the fun starts trying to find it and see what type it is.

The voltmeter stays the same. 

[MtB]

12 minutes ago, Biafreespirit said:

 

 

 

Thanks. Is that with the engine running? 

 

If so, the rev counter is not working which also points towards a dead alternator. (The alternator provides the speed signal which the rev counter uses to work out the engine speed.)

Possibly something as simple as a broken vee belt.

 

Can we see a photo of your new alternator please? Especially the back where the wires connect.

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, Biafreespirit said:

Yes, did that, light still on

1 minute ago, Biafreespirit said:

The voltmeter stays the same. 

 

As long as the engine is revving at 1200rpm plus that says the alternator is faulty or the charge splitter (unless two alternators) has failed but inspect all the wires in case one has fallen off. There is probably a fat rubber "glove" over a multi-way connector low down beside the engine. If you can find it take it apart and make sure all the little pins and sockets are clan and tight.

 

I think you need to start phoning those numbers that were posted.

 

[David Mack]

9 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Possibly something as simple as a broken vee belt.

On the front of your engine there should be one or more rubber belts driving the alternator and water pump. With the engine running the alternator should be rotating. Is it?

If you're not sure what to look for post a photo or two of the front end of the engine, so we can direct you.

[Biafreespirit]

2 minutes ago, David Mack said:

On the front of your engine there should be one or more rubber belts driving the alternator and water pump. With the engine running the alternator should be rotating. Is it?

If you're not sure what to look for post a photo or two of the front end of the engine, so we can direct you.

The alternator is running. The alternator has been changed and the belt as well. I can't see any lose wires. 

16 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

As long as the engine is revving at 1200rpm plus that says the alternator is faulty or the charge splitter (unless two alternators) has failed but inspect all the wires in case one has fallen off. There is probably a fat rubber "glove" over a multi-way connector low down beside the engine. If you can find it take it apart and make sure all the little pins and sockets are clan and tight.

 

I think you need to start phoning those numbers that were posted.

 

Yes. I tried to call but because its Sunday no one is answering. I'll try again tomorrow. 

[rusty69]

There is also a facebook group called TIMEA (The independent marine engineers association), who may be able to find you someone suitable if the London boaters group cannot.

 

Good luck.

[David Mack]

OK. Well until you can get somebody to sort the problem out you are going to have a very basic existence. If you haven't already, remove that jump lead which is connecting the engine and start batteries. That way you will retain the ability to start the engine when you need to. You will now have no domestic power at all. So no lighting, no water pump, no fridge, no phone charging or anything. Fill a container with water for drinking. If you can cook on gas that's good - use a match to light the burners. A solid fuel stove if you have one will keep you warm, but if you rely on a gas or diesel boiler with radiators then I'm afraid its down to putting on a lot of clothes and climbing into bed early to keep warm.

Hope you get it sorted soon!