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Calorifier pump?

Janz

By Janz
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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Ah, its a pusher, no the other way round. The gland looks a bit over packed to me so might cause difficulties getting the pusher to enter the body. I normally advise you leave the packing a coupe om mm below the body so the pusher can be centralized more easily. This will be more important on the stern gland.

Well, it's not going well. I discovered why my pump failed - a lump of rubber around an inch big had blocked the pump. That in itself isn't the problem, the wrong sized pulley (looks to be a car one), has been welded pretty badly to the shaft! That's why I thought the shaft was bent but it was the pulley been bodged on askew. So now I have a decent pump but no bloody pulley & I've just looked & ASAP want £103 for a replacement..!

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bizzard Veteran II

bizzard

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The pulley needs to be closer to the pump, sticking out at the end of the pumps shaft adds extra leverage and so wears it's shaft and bearings quicker.  Pump needs rearranging to get the pulley closer with the drive belt in line.

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Slim Influencer

Slim

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On 12/02/2022 at 11:07, David Mack said:

If you have 240V available use a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to suck out the last of the dirty bilge water.

£40 from screwfix.

Just what I was going to suggest. Accept that it's going to get greasy but it will pay it's way over and over again .

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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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36 minutes ago, bizzard said:

The pulley needs to be closer to the pump, sticking out at the end of the pumps shaft adds extra leverage and so wears it's shaft and bearings quicker.  Pump needs rearranging to get the pulley closer with the drive belt in line.

Yeah, it's really wonky in operation. I'm hoping installing the proper pulley will correct that but I'm finding it difficult to locate anything suitable. I might have to do what Tony suggested & have one machined at a workshop.

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

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Just now, Janz said:

It's cast & it has EH728 as a part number. I can't find any info on it.

 

You just need diameter and belt width or take that one off and get a bearing merchant to match it. It will be ally but so were all those I have come across.

 

Remember I told you those belts will still drive the pump when they are so slack one would think no way. I would not worry to much about a bit of out of true running as long as the belt was not so tight it kept snatching on the shaft.

1 minute ago, Janz said:

Yeah, it's really wonky in operation. I'm hoping installing the proper pulley will correct that but I'm finding it difficult to locate anything suitable. I might have to do what Tony suggested & have one machined at a workshop.

 

I think the Picavant pulleys come with a centered dimple so you could use a pillar drill to open it out

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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

You just need diameter and belt width or take that one off and get a bearing merchant to match it. It will be ally but so were all those I have come across.

 

Remember I told you those belts will still drive the pump when they are so slack one would think no way. I would not worry to much about a bit of out of true running as long as the belt was not so tight it kept snatching on the shaft.

That's where I think the trouble lies. The wrong pulley running out of true putting sideways stress on the shaft has taken out the packing. Looking at it, I think it isn't welded, rather the shaft has been 'peened' to try & keep the pulley on...

10 minutes ago, Slim said:

Just what I was going to suggest. Accept that it's going to get greasy but it will pay it's way over and over again .

I shall definitely look into it but right now it's all hands to the pump, or the pump pulley...

I might post a wanted ad.

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, Janz said:

That's where I think the trouble lies. The wrong pulley running out of true putting sideways stress on the shaft has taken out the packing. Looking at it, I think it isn't welded, rather the shaft has been 'peened' to try & keep the pulley on...

 

I don't have the pump to test but the normal cause is lack of use of the grease caps at some time in the pump's life or simple extended use or an over tight belt. causing the body to wear oval.  That pump could be 50 years old and wear in plain bearings is to be expected. If you slacken the belt I don't see how an out of true pulley can put any more sideways stress on the shaft than the belt normally does. That is the main problem with these pumps. I note that you have not told us the result of testing the shaft in the body for lateral movement. There should be no movement but I bet there is, and if so you can expect a short life from the packing. That has very little to do with the pulley running out of true.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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24 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I don't have the pump to test but the normal cause is lack of use of the grease caps at some time in the pump's life or simple extended use or an over tight belt. causing the body to wear oval.  That pump could be 50 years old and wear in plain bearings is to be expected. If you slacken the belt I don't see how an out of true pulley can put any more sideways stress on the shaft than the belt normally does. That is the main problem with these pumps. I note that you have not told us the result of testing the shaft in the body for lateral movement. There should be no movement but I bet there is, and if so you can expect a short life from the packing. That has very little to do with the pulley running out of true.

 

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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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I'll tear it down & have a look. I want to keep the pump because I have a gasket coming & some spare gland packing that came with the replacement. If I can get the wonky pulley off the shaft, I can rebuild it but looking at the shaft end I will need a new shaft for sure.

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David Mack Veteran II

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5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

As someone advised, google for Picador pulleys. You may have to get the bore machined to suit the pump.

 

Your local bearing specialist will usually have them. The first one that turned up on a website was £11.

Or online, such as https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/SPA-Aluminium-V-Pulleys--Pilot-Bore/SPA1251-Aluminium-V-Pulley--97038-p

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Janz Collaborator

Janz

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Well I finally divorced shaft & pulley. Miraculously the shaft isn't bent. I've just rolled it around on my oven top & aside from the peened end (that I thought was weld), it rolls alright. Check out the state of it though! It ain't had it easy... scoring along the length & the woodruff key has taken a right beating on one side too.

20220214_111120.jpg

20220214_111128.jpg

20220214_111139.jpg

20220214_111146.jpg

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MtB Veteran II

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3 minutes ago, Janz said:

scoring along the length & the woodruff key has taken a right beating on one side too.

 

Point of Order...!

 

That's not a Woodruff keyway, that's a flat machined for a grub screw to mate onto. A Wooduff key is a piece of metal tat fits into a slot in the shaft and also engages in a slot in the hole through the pulley, to totally prevent slippage. 

 

Unless the key itself shears.

 

 

 

 

 

Edit to add:

Aha but your next post coinciding with mine DOES show a Woodruff key....! 

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

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4 minutes ago, Janz said:

The key after trying to push round the impeller that has been going bald & has shed its wings blocking the pump & causing all sorts of woe...

20220214_112524.jpg

 

 

I am not sure what this is photo is supposed be showing. On that pump, on a 1.5 I am sure the impeller was driven by a screw. I suppose it may be key driven but if so there is nothing but the impeller (a hand push fit) to hold it in place. so it would chatter and wear, just as the screw does. I told you many posts ago that the impellers are often changed annually to prevent them shedding wings. Check any elbows in the cooling system pipework have not got an impeller wing jammed across them. Again beaten by Mike

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