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Governor housing leak


Peter Sharp
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Hello all.

 

My engine has developed a significant leak (jet of fuel) from the gap between (I think) the governor and the fuel pump. I think there should be a gasket there which has perished. Question: is it any easy replacement and if so can anyone recommend where to purchase a new gasket and how to go about replacing it?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Peter

 

 

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Cannot tell you how to get at the gasket, though Tony B will be along soon I expect,  but it is easy to make your own gaskets.  Gasket paper is readily available on line:  Google "klingerit"  for a start.  

Place a piece of gasket paper on the joint face and tap GENTLY round the edges with a small ball-pein hammer.   This will cut out a perfectly sized new gasket.  You may need the assistance of a wad punch for small holes.

 

There is probably a U-bend video of how to do it.  There is for most things! 

 

N

 

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Take the control cables off. Clean the whole area with lint free cloth. Undo the two bi-hex headed machine screws (some are ordinary hex) of about 8mm AF that hold the whole "turret" on and also the control spindles in to the turret. They are not  symmetrical, I think they are on opposite sides of the spindles - not 100% sure of that but there are only two small headed screws there. Then carefully lift the turret vertically. You will lift the governor valve out of the pump body hanging under turret. Keep this scrupulous clean. Fit new gasket and replace the turret.

 

The turrets do seem to work loose at times so try tightening the two screws first. The O rings on the control spindle also wear and leak, make sure it is not fuel running down from the spindle.

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Its only a paper gasket.

Christmas card will do, a thin one.

 

You have to be scrupulously clean. Get the outside spotless before undoing anything. Wash all removed parts in clean fuel.

As far As I know, the gaskets are now only available in the full pump rebuild seal and gasket set, not cheap.

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First of all make sure your nuts are tight and that you use the correct fuel and heat resistant type of Loctit:

LOCTITE 242|603|243|542|638|262|641|648|680 660 RETAINER 10ml thread lock uk top | eBay

 

IF it still leaks, then remove as per the TB post and make a gasket, (Keep the one you purchased as a spare). I  have a rather odd habit of using a smear of a real serious flexible marine adhesive, (Sabatack 750XL at present), on either side of the gasket to hold the gasket in place whilst fitting. Doing that might not be necessary in gasket function terms, BUT it does make sure the gasket stays in place when you use your torque wrench to tighter the mounting bolts or nuts. 

 

Make sure you order the correct thickness of gasket paper: 

Genuine Flexoid Gasket Paper A4 size Sheet (Free UK Postage) 0.40mm Thick | eBay

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I would strongly advise that you take great care if using any form of additional sealer. A mere accidental dab on the governor valve as you refit it is likely to jamb it up so if you are lucky it refuses to rev up or if unlucky runs flat out  until you either stop it or get  a loud expansive bang. I would use a smear of grease to hold the gasket in place if I had to, but I think a land on the pump body will mean you won't need it.

  • Greenie 1
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In this particular case I would only use it on one side, and I never use a tube to apply it to the gasket or engine block, just use the Mk 1 or 2 finger of choice to make a very thin smear. There is no way that will get inside.

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One point is that each of the fixing screws retains one spindle .......dont remove the screws any further than necessary,and the spindle wont come out of place....If the spindle come out ,it no longer retains the governor plunger ,and you might have trouble getting it back together.

  • Greenie 1
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