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Bilge pump for a widebeam


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I need to replace the bilge pump in our 2018 Orchard widebeam.  The existing (broken) pump is a Rule-Mate RM500A 500GPH automatic bilge pump.  I'm not sure if this is the original pump but the boat was certainly delivered with a Rule-Mate bilge pump--the owner's manual states "Rule-Mate bilge pump" but not the capacity.

 

I guess I have a couple questions:

  • Is it worth me getting a higher-capacity pump, now I'm presented the opportunity, or would that be an (unnecessary) luxury?
  • Can you recommend any particular pumps or is Rule a good brand to stick with?

 

I'll be grateful to hear your reasoning.

 

Many thanks

 

 

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A bigger one is always better  providing you can use it.

 

If you just want to pump out the drips from the stern tube a small pump is all that is needed.  If you want to deal with a detached cooling pipe to a raw water cooled engine, or a leaking weed hatch lid then you need a bigger one.

 

If you want to be able to deal with,  say, a 50 mm  hole in the hull from hitting a scaffold tube then you need a serious pump.

 

What you can fit may be constrained by the existing cables/fuse, space and/or skin fittings.

 

 

Rule and Johnson are both good names IME. A cheapo pump is likely to be just that.

 

N

  • Greenie 1
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500 GPH is a good size and can cope with pretty much all 'normal' leaks (my pump is 40 litres per minute = 527 GPH), if you try to go larger then you will find that you need a larger diameter hose and therefore will need to cut out and drill a larger hole for a bigger skin fitting.

 

Rule are a good pump (sort of Ford of the pump world) reliable, middle of the road pumps.

 

Never rely on an automtic pump, you need to check it functions when you do your morning pre-start engine checks. The automatic 'float-switch' gets very easily clogged with a small bit of grease, fluff, rust etc so ensure it is regularly cleaned and checked for operation.

 

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Some are too technical again...

I cant believe you need to replace a bilge pump on a boat launched in 2018. 

3 years old and failed on a brand new boat that should have been leak free?

Has a fuse blown, is it full of stern grease and needs cleaning, or have you dropped 50kg of ballast on it.??

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I too am taken aback that a three year old boat has a worn out bilge pump. I'm not sure the bilge pump in my 28 year old boat has even been wet, ever. 

 

The important question you seem to be swerving is where is all this water coming from, that the bilge pump has worn itself out pumping back out into the cut?? 

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18 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

It's probably worth dunking it in a bucket of water to see if it works before you really need it.

You would be amazed at how many boat surveyors put Bilge Pump not working on a pre purchase survey and when we are going through the list, water magically makes them work.

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12 minutes ago, matty40s said:

You would be amazed at how many boat surveyors put Bilge Pump not working on a pre purchase survey and when we are going through the list, water magically makes them work.

 

How many is it then? 

 

🤣🤣

 

 

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11 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Never rely on an automtic pump, you need to check it functions when you do your morning pre-start engine checks. The automatic 'float-switch' gets very easily clogged with a small bit of grease, fluff, rust etc so ensure it is regularly cleaned and checked for operation.

 

 

I take that rationale one step further and don't rely on a single bilge pump. Like most inland boats I have an automatic bilge pump in the engine compartment but also a couple of other portable pumps ready to go just in case (both 12v and mains submersible that I can run from my generator). If you do get a leak or stern gland failure and your bilge pump stops working you need other methods of getting the water out. It's an insurance policy that hopefully will never be needed, but better to have other bits of kit handy rather than running around in a panic asking other boaters if anyone has anything you could borrow.

 

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3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I take that rationale one step further and don't rely on a single bilge pump. Like most inland boats I have an automatic bilge pump in the engine compartment but also a couple of other portable pumps ready to go just in case (both 12v and mains submersible that I can run from my generator). If you do get a leak or stern gland failure and your bilge pump stops working you need other methods of getting the water out. It's an insurance policy that hopefully will never be needed, but better to have other bits of kit handy rather than running around in a panic asking other boaters if anyone has anything you could borrow.

 

 

Completey agree - being now 'sea-based' it is even more important as a big leak does not just mean settling ont the mud in 3 feet of water).

 

I have a 12v 500gph 'wandering hose' bilge pump. It lives underneath the helm has a discharge hose that can poke out of the window and a suction hose that can reach all of the 13 separate bilges on the boat, simply lift floor panels and drop it into the bilge.

 

Can be switched on either by the switch on the pump or on the master switch-panel.

 

20210921-093702.jpg

 

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ae235.jpg

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Presumably that's a self-priming pump?

 

I'm sure you'll have thought about that and it will be, but now is a better time to make sure than on the day you need it. It looks a well designed piece of kit but did you also test that it really does self-prime?

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33 minutes ago, MtB said:

Presumably that's a self-priming pump?

 

I'm sure you'll have thought about that and it will be, but now is a better time to make sure than on the day you need it. It looks a well designed piece of kit but did you also test that it really does self-prime?

 

I thank you for the concern as some may not have considered it, but, yes it is and yes I have.

 

I hung the suction end into the water (about 7 or 8 feet below deck level) It took a while but it did self prime.

I then tried it by pouring a couple of litres of water down the pipe to 'charge it' as there is a non-return valve built into the filter it didn't run out and the pre-priming certainly helped as it primed almost immediately.

 

It also safe to use on diesel and when I "had my problem" & got water in the diesel tank I used one to suck out the 200+ litres of water from the tank and discharge into an IBC on top of the dock wall.

 

I think they were about £40 each (new) from ebay.

I then got the suction and discharge hoses from Tool Station for a 'few pounds'.

 

 

Part: 12V Portable Electric Fuel Pump

Warranty: 2 Year
Voltage: 12 volt
Flow Rate: 40 Litres per minute
Current: 10 Amps
Suitable for: Diesel Bio (NOT FOR PETROL OR FLAMABLE FLUIDS)
Technical: 3/4" Port fittings, 175 Watt high power, Dimensions L 20cm H 15cm W8cm. Lift distance 10m, Inlet Diameter: 25mm Outlet Diamter:25mm

FAST TRANSFER HEAVY DUTY POWERFUL 175 watt
Transfer pump suitable for diesel and other non flamable fluids. Heavy duty construction cast iron body. The power cord is equipped with battery terminal clips but you can discard these and hardwire the pump to your vehicle if you wish. Run the engine if using for long periods to conserve the vehicle battery.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 29/12/2021 at 22:14, Alan de Enfield said:

500 GPH is a good size and can cope with pretty much all 'normal' leaks (my pump is 40 litres per minute = 527 GPH), if you try to go larger then you will find that you need a larger diameter hose and therefore will need to cut out and drill a larger hole for a bigger skin fitting.

 

Rule are a good pump (sort of Ford of the pump world) reliable, middle of the road pumps.

 

Never rely on an automtic pump, you need to check it functions when you do your morning pre-start engine checks. The automatic 'float-switch' gets very easily clogged with a small bit of grease, fluff, rust etc so ensure it is regularly cleaned and checked for operation.

 

 

Many thanks for all your responses.  That's helpful.

 

I traced the wires back and I'm hoping the bilge pump is no longer working because of corrosion in the connectors--the connections hadn't been shrink-wrapped.  I'll do some tests next time, to make sure that really is the only problem.  The fuse was fine, and I'd cleaned the pump and trap--tho there was nothing awry.  I routinely check the operation of the pump: it was working one week and then wasn't the next.  It's rainwater that collects in the bilge; this weekend I dealt with a couple problems that weren't helping with that.

 

Edited by danbettles
Missed some punctuation
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