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Sandblasting I will try to help your enquiries


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On 13/12/2021 at 01:51, john.k said:

Its impossible to do a  good job unless the hull is on stands high enough for the blaster to stand upright under......movable supports are also needed on the stands to get complete coverage with blast and paint....the stands will also run along track so the hull can be loaded outside the blast room ,pushed in to blast ,and out the other side for paint.....steel grit is the only viable blast agent for rusted steel with pitting.......ideally ,each nozzle will have 500cfm at 120psi  for an efficient job.

 

Mick has blasted several boats in our Club dry dock I was the first to use him. The stanchions raise the boat about 24". We use a 20ton jack to raise the boat and move them so the whole plate is cleaned, He has no trouble blasting the baseplates. He is highly regarded here and does "above and beyond". Highly recommended!

Edited by Midnight
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1 hour ago, Midnight said:

 

Mick has blasted several boats in our Club dry dock I was the first to use him. The stanchions raise the boat about 24". We use a 20ton jack to raise the boat and move them so the whole plate is cleaned, He has no trouble blasting the baseplates. He is highly regarded here and does "above and beyond". Highly recommended!

Thanks I appreciate your feedback. Although I cannot take credit for the props been moved we normally time this with a pot refill so my down time is minimal.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for posting, every interesting to see.

 

As with basically any painting, the prep is always the most time consuming, and the most important part, but also often the most neglected part.

 

The Jotun paint is also very good I am told, their epoxy ali is also common for car chassis restoration, TVR's etc.

 

 

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Our boat was grit blasted from new, inside and out, before painting with an epoxy blast primer (very thin, low viscosity) and then a Zinc rich epoxy (high build), and then two part polyurethane for the topside and inside, and a epoxy blacking below waterline. Thirty years on, and it still very good indeed.

 

On a four yearly dry dock, we jet wash and recoat. Good adhesion throughout all coats, exceptions permitted, and basically zero rust to speak of.

The paint is too soft to sand, and a good jet wash (large industrial spec) gives a very clean surface. Some scraping in specific/damaged areas.

Epoxy ali on the bare bits, and then two coats all over. Ensure its dry, see you in four years!

 

Much of the inside is also like new, certainly all the sides and roof, and the majority of the base plate under the cabin.

Topsides are recoated after around 6-8year, mainly for cosmetic reasons. Good wash down with soap water and a scotch/3m pad.

 

There is slight rusting on the upside sides and underside of the scantlings, caused be shallowing of the blasting, but this is only surface rust.

And there is some rusting towards the aft bilges where water has been allowed to stand over the years and the coating cant really be maintained.

Even still, the only really bad bit is where we stupidly in hindsight left lead ballast stored in contact with the wet steel. Heyho.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

 

Daniel

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3 hours ago, DHutch said:

Our boat was grit blasted from new, inside and out, before painting with an epoxy blast primer (very thin, low viscosity) and then a Zinc rich epoxy (high build), and then two part polyurethane for the topside and inside, and a epoxy blacking below waterline. Thirty years on, and it still very good indeed.

 

On a four yearly dry dock, we jet wash and recoat. Good adhesion throughout all coats, exceptions permitted, and basically zero rust to speak of.

The paint is too soft to sand, and a good jet wash (large industrial spec) gives a very clean surface. Some scraping in specific/damaged areas.

Epoxy ali on the bare bits, and then two coats all over. Ensure its dry, see you in four years!

 

Much of the inside is also like new, certainly all the sides and roof, and the majority of the base plate under the cabin.

Topsides are recoated after around 6-8year, mainly for cosmetic reasons. Good wash down with soap water and a scotch/3m pad.

 

There is slight rusting on the upside sides and underside of the scantlings, caused be shallowing of the blasting, but this is only surface rust.

And there is some rusting towards the aft bilges where water has been allowed to stand over the years and the coating cant really be maintained.

Even still, the only really bad bit is where we stupidly in hindsight left lead ballast stored in contact with the wet steel. Heyho.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

 

Daniel

Hi  Daniel

 

Thanks for the info 👌 I also offer steam cleaning 300bar @ 155° 24LPM I can also ad a water dilution chemical (water is the way it dilutes) so if it gets into the canal in the strength it will be after its use will be safe to enter the canal. I believe this service is under used but people believe they can get same or similar results from a normal house old pressure washer. Even hot washers cannot get to the temperature of this trailer mounted twin burner diesel engine pressure washer (the size of a small car). If you have heard of Doff this I've got makes that look like a toy 😂 

I would like to do more steam cleaning boats but it's not a service I get asked for unfortunately as like you say its all thats needed to keep onto of the prep/ longevity of the boats life after a blast and paint 

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Nice. Sounds like a hello of a piece of kit.

 

Best washer we have used is that at Northwich Drydock Co, they have a custom-spec Cleanwell washer, 15hp 415v motor driving a large Interpump head which but getting on for the flow rates you detail (maybe 30l/min 250bar) all be it a cold only unit. The kickback when you pull the trigger is only beaten by how much you move forward when you release again.

 

You can do an 'ok' job with less, but it takes all the faff out of the job and just lifts of any dirt, loose paint, rust blooms even, and does so quickly and efficiently so you are not tempted to reduce the quality to speed up the job!  Past yards where their washer hasnt really been up to is ive gone over the whole hull with a cup brush in a 5" grinder, not required here!

 

20190922_110530.jpg

20190922_110556.jpg

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1 hour ago, DHutch said:

Nice. Sounds like a hello of a piece of kit.

 

Best washer we have used is that at Northwich Drydock Co, they have a custom-spec Cleanwell washer, 15hp 415v motor driving a large Interpump head which but getting on for the flow rates you detail (maybe 30l/min 250bar) all be it a cold only unit. The kickback when you pull the trigger is only beaten by how much you move forward when you release again.

 

You can do an 'ok' job with less, but it takes all the faff out of the job and just lifts of any dirt, loose paint, rust blooms even, and does so quickly and efficiently so you are not tempted to reduce the quality to speed up the job!  Past yards where their washer hasnt really been up to is ive gone over the whole hull with a cup brush in a 5" grinder, not required here!

 

20190922_110530.jpg

20190922_110556.jpg

I don't have any footage of me doing a boat but this is my unit I have

 

1 hour ago, DHutch said:

Nice. Sounds like a hello of a piece of kit.

 

Best washer we have used is that at Northwich Drydock Co, they have a custom-spec Cleanwell washer, 15hp 415v motor driving a large Interpump head which but getting on for the flow rates you detail (maybe 30l/min 250bar) all be it a cold only unit. The kickback when you pull the trigger is only beaten by how much you move forward when you release again.

 

You can do an 'ok' job with less, but it takes all the faff out of the job and just lifts of any dirt, loose paint, rust blooms even, and does so quickly and efficiently so you are not tempted to reduce the quality to speed up the job!  Past yards where their washer hasnt really been up to is ive gone over the whole hull with a cup brush in a 5" grinder, not required here!

 

20190922_110530.jpg

20190922_110556.jpg

 

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