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Sliding Hatch!


Maffi

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My hatch slide is made from 6mm steel. God knows how much it weighs, probably 40-50 lbs. It can be difficult to open even with wax in the winter. But that is only part of the problem. Several times I have drawn blood by hitting my head on the slide when it has not been properly opened. The last time was Friday. I have on a number of occasions been bloodied by my interaction with the damn slide.

 

Now then what I want is a slide that has a bit more give and a little less mass. So I am thinking Aluminium, or better Dural.  Does anyone know where I can take my slide and have a duplicate made in Dural?

 

 

 

 

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The slide on Helvetia was 4ft long and very heavy, too heavy for one person to lift. The slide had Rosewood blocks which ran on brass runners but was quite difficult to move. I solved the poor running, by replacing the runner on the slide with some sort of very slippery plastic called ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) which I got from a forum member who stopped posting in 2016.  It worked so well that I had to avoid leaning on it, in case I fell into the cabin !!

 

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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9 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

The slide on Helvetia was 4ft long and very heavy, too heavy for one person to lift. The slide had Rosewood blocks which ran on brass runners but was quite difficult to move. I solved the poor running, by replacing the runner on the slide with some sort of very slippery plastic called ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) which I got from a forum member who stopped posting in 2016.  It worked so well that I had to avoid leaning on it, in case I fell into the cabin !!

 

 

I also had some UHMWPE sliders made to work on the brass runners. Not quite as slippery as PTFE, but doesn't produce horribly toxic gases when machined as Teflon can do. Had some round UHMWPE machined by a neighbour, who had access to a proper machine shop at that time. Again, if the brass has some wax on it, the slide is very free running. The hatch is thinner steel, wood lined, but does have a 80W solar panel on top of it, so still fairly heavy. This was done several years ago and there is no noticable wear on the sliders yet.

That's two people who haven't answered @Maffi's question about getting a Dural replacement made so far. How many more? Other than Dural/aluminium, how about thinner steel, with insulation and wood lining? Would still be significantly lighter and easier to find someone on the cut able and willing to make it.

 

Jen

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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I made plywood slides and covered them with a thin sheet of aluminium. This has the benefit of lightness and durability.  I put little felt pads on the runners, thinking that they might not last, but they have now been in place for a couple of years and work smoothly.

 

20200205_141328.jpg.c1829a2e32d7ed2dd285e2b27ab20c7c.jpg

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If you want an aluminium alloy slide you need to find an aluminium fabricator.

A quick google produces Metweld  on the Tramway industrial estate Banbury so not too far from where I think you are.  There are others....

 

Remember that Aluminium can be a bugger to keep paint on!

N

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Our new widebeam had a steel hatch. It was the sort that drops over the rear doors to secure them and had a large D handle welded to the rear edge to enable it to be lifted from outside. 

 

It was far too heavy to lift and slide and the D would catch you in the back as you exited. I took it to a local fabricator in Huntingdon who made me a copy in 3mm aluminium, with an integral handle rather than the D. Life is much easier now but cost nearly £800.

 

I also put self adhesive PTFE tape on the slides so it slid without binding or needing any lubricant. This has not been so successful as, if not careful, when lifting the hatch you can catch the edge of the tape and pull it off. So now looking at getting some 3 or 4 mm thick PTFE strip to replace the stainless steel strip currently fitted.

 

Edited after Bengo reminded me. Did buy some aluminium primer. Unfortunately weather conditions mean it has had 2 primer and 1 undercoat. More coats will have to wait until Spring.

Edited by pearley
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1 hour ago, pearley said:

Our new widebeam had a steel hatch. It was the sort that drops over the rear doors to secure them and had a large D handle welded to the rear edge to enable it to be lifted from outside. 

 

It was far too heavy to lift and slide and the D would catch you in the back as you exited. I took it to a local fabricator in Huntingdon who made me a copy in 3mm aluminium, with an integral handle rather than the D. Life is much easier now but cost nearly £800.

 

I also put self adhesive PTFE tape on the slides so it slid without binding or needing any lubricant. This has not been so successful as, if not careful, when lifting the hatch you can catch the edge of the tape and pull it off. So now looking at getting some 3 or 4 mm thick PTFE strip to replace the stainless steel strip currently fitted.

 

Edited after Bengo reminded me. Did buy some aluminium primer. Unfortunately weather conditions mean it has had 2 primer and 1 undercoat. More coats will have to wait until Spring.

I too have been trying to track down some 3 to 4 mm PTFE strip but without success. If you are successful please post details. In the meanwhile I find spray PTFE very effective but it needs re-applying every 3 to 4 weeks. A tin lasts for  years. The only drawback is that it takes about an hour to dry and I'm guaranteed to put a hand on it in that time.

Edited by Slim
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1 hour ago, Slim said:

I too have been trying to track down some 3 to 4 mm PTFE strip but without success. If you are successful please post details. In the meanwhile I find spray PTFE very effective but it needs re-applying every 3 to 4 weeks. A tin lasts for  years. The only drawback is that it takes about an hour to dry and I'm guaranteed to put a hand on it in that time.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/White-PTFE-Strip-6mm-Meter/dp/B093BZ4WB1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PTFE+strip&qid=1638362542&qsid=260-7408861-7049712&s=diy&sr=1-3&sres=B01MDNG5MG%2CB077GWPLJ4%2CB093BZ4WB1%2CB01KLY90Y6%2CB01KLWN5QM%2CB005DRE1Q4%2CB077QX2HXQ%2CB071X6PC89%2CB0120YN064%2CB08HGRTZM9%2CB07Y34WY39%2CB07MNRJC9S%2CB08HGN8LDC%2CB0001K9YA6%2CB08JKYD4VK%2CB003TO2MTG&srpt=ADHESIVE_TAPES

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Thanks all for your input! My slide does drop down to hold the doors shut.. I cut off the 'D' handles (shown)......

 

495237782_blog3a.jpg.8430add462d0526577df17251d6ab04b.jpg

 

.......and replaced them with this beautiful brass adornment, but that's only any good getting in the boat.

 

348294251_blog2.jpg.795ecf4d7d2393791f8f9ffafcd6bcd5.jpg

 

I have a gadget, a length of 3 x 1 with wheels on, that I can use on the inside to lift the hatch and draw it back the first foot but its still difficult to open and close from the inside.

 

My current method is to lift the slide with my head, but this is not much good for my neck. I am sure I am shorter now than when I first got on the boat 15years ago.

 

Aluminum or Dural would seem to be a solution as I reckon it would reduce the weight by more than half.

 

I had also thought a nice Sapele construction would look good but am concerned about security.

 

It really is the lifting bit that is the problem, but even though I wax the runners it can often be hard to slide.

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5 hours ago, Maffi said:

Thanks all for your input! My slide does drop down to hold the doors shut.. I cut off the 'D' handles (shown)......

 

495237782_blog3a.jpg.8430add462d0526577df17251d6ab04b.jpg

 

.......and replaced them with this beautiful brass adornment, but that's only any good getting in the boat.

 

348294251_blog2.jpg.795ecf4d7d2393791f8f9ffafcd6bcd5.jpg

 

I have a gadget, a length of 3 x 1 with wheels on, that I can use on the inside to lift the hatch and draw it back the first foot but its still difficult to open and close from the inside.

 

My current method is to lift the slide with my head, but this is not much good for my neck. I am sure I am shorter now than when I first got on the boat 15years ago.

 

Aluminum or Dural would seem to be a solution as I reckon it would reduce the weight by more than half.

 

I had also thought a nice Sapele construction would look good but am concerned about security.

 

It really is the lifting bit that is the problem, but even though I wax the runners it can often be hard to slide.

I would be interested to see a pic of your gadget. Midnight is a John White with Similar hatch which is difficult to open from inside. It slides okay on cheap plastic runners and brass rails just hard to lift.

Edited by Midnight
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Well Maffi you could have a hatch like ours on Herbie, which is a hinged lid you just lift up and there is an attached prop to hold it open a bit like on a car bonnet.  You must have passed under it a good few times but maybe you've never noticed it. Ours is made of ply with a glass fibre skin on the outside. It lifts pretty easily and in 16 years has never let a drop of water in. It was put on by the previous owner whose wife was struggling with the slide. I've never seen another like it.

 

Neil

 

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On 02/12/2021 at 08:35, Midnight said:

I would be interested to see a pic of your gadget. Midnight is a John White with Similar hatch which is difficult to open from inside. It slides okay on cheap plastic runners and brass rails just hard to lift.

I have knocked up this drawing Midnight. I think it is easy to see. I used 3x1 and a pair of 6 inch wheels with a long coach bolt for an axle. The total length of mine is 1.2 meters. Conceivably you could use 2x1 and 3 inch wheels its up to you. You can buy the wheels at B&Q.

 

Untitled.png.b7068667c5b2fe273a55afd6e9f7684e.png

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48 minutes ago, Maffi said:

I have knocked up this drawing Midnight. I think it is easy to see. I used 3x1 and a pair of 6 inch wheels with a long coach bolt for an axle. The total length of mine is 1.2 meters. Conceivably you could use 2x1 and 3 inch wheels its up to you. You can buy the wheels at B&Q.

 

Untitled.png.b7068667c5b2fe273a55afd6e9f7684e.png

 

Thank you for that which shows clearly the design and how it works. I'll buy the beers when we meet.

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On 01/12/2021 at 09:11, BEngo said:

 

 

Remember that Aluminium can be a bugger to keep paint on!

N

 

Not if you use the right paint. I've used Hempel Blakes (EPU) Epoxy Primer Undercoat on aluminum and the paint is solid. You need to key the aluminum and then spirit wipe clean with Hemple thinners no.5. you've then got 20 mins to get your mixed epoxy undercoat on before the keyed surface of the aluminum oxidises, so mix the paint up beforehand. Put 2 coats of the primer/undercoat on following the min/max overcoating times in the paint TDS and then you can use a two-part of a single part topcoat. An alternative primer is jotamastic 90 but it only comes in big tins.

 

Or don't paint the aluminum at all if you like the look.

Edited by blackrose
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FWIW Here's a link to my blog page from 2008 where I show Herbie's hinged hatch and discuss its pros and cons.  Although we had mixed feelings about it not being very "boaty" it has stood the test of time very well and  continues to be secure and watertight.. It's also very easy to take off entirely although we very rarely do.

 

https://nbherbie.blogspot.com/2008/05/down-hatch.html

 

Neil

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I'm sure Blackrose's method is the correct one, but I had perfectly acceptable results on my aluminium-covered slides by using Halfords' Etch Primer - well, it's lasted a couple of years so far.  It comes in a 500 ml spray can.

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2 hours ago, ncherbie said:

FWIW Here's a link to my blog page from 2008 where I show Herbie's hinged hatch and discuss its pros and cons.  Although we had mixed feelings about it not being very "boaty" it has stood the test of time very well and  continues to be secure and watertight.. It's also very easy to take off entirely although we very rarely do.

 

https://nbherbie.blogspot.com/2008/05/down-hatch.html

 

Neil

I'm slightly surprised this isn't arranged so the lid can flip right over when open - a common detail with hatches over side doors. 

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On 04/12/2021 at 10:00, ncherbie said:

FWIW Here's a link to my blog page from 2008 where I show Herbie's hinged hatch and discuss its pros and cons.  Although we had mixed feelings about it not being very "boaty" it has stood the test of time very well and  continues to be secure and watertight.. It's also very easy to take off entirely although we very rarely do.

 

https://nbherbie.blogspot.com/2008/05/down-hatch.html

 

Neil

I wouldn't want to lift mine off!

Who are you insured with I forgot what you told me.

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