SusieC Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 Has anyone successfully worked out how to do this on hopper windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 Only so the hopper canot be opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 7 minutes ago, SusieC said: Has anyone successfully worked out how to do this on hopper windows? In my case, the hopper brackets are attached by two screws which can easily be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 I magnetically perspexed the lower part of my hoppers and left the hoppery bit as was. This gave a noticeable improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 If you're doing it do it properly with 3 or 4mm perspex or clear acrylic with UV resistance and magnetic strips. They can be cut to size for you and you can fit some handles. If you want to open the hoppers just take the perspex off. That clingfilm inside your windows looks terrible. There are some old threads on here with all the details if you do a search Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted November 21, 2021 Report Share Posted November 21, 2021 Doesn't really help though if the triangular stays that hold the hopper in the open position project inside the cabin lining. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 8 hours ago, blackrose said: That clingfilm inside your windows looks terrible. If you do a good job of fitting it without creases (a bit of an art but possible with care) it can be almost invisible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, rgreg said: If you do a good job of fitting it without creases (a bit of an art but possible with care) it can be almost invisible. And the thin stuff I looked at said use a hair dryer to shrink it once fitted so the creases came out. Nowadays you can get thin roll able semi rigid clear plastic that would be easier to get up without creases and it is far from Clingfilm. Back to the OP. I had this on JennyB and came to the conclusion that I had two options. Either fit a suitably deep wooded surround to get the plastic clear of the hopper brackets or just do the main pane and find some foam like substance to bridge the gap between the frame blow the hopper and the film. As it was a holiday boat and only used for the odd weekend in winter I gave up and did neither. I think one could make a quick release wooden frame that sat in a groove batten along the bottom of the window and held in place by a couple of finger screws at the top that are hidden by the blind/curtain. Edited to add: Last paragraph - should have said with some foam on the frame to make a better seal between cabin lining and frame. Edited November 22, 2021 by Tony Brooks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said: And the thin stuff I looked at said use a hair dryer to shrink it once fitted so the creases came out. Yes, that's what I use. Tesa Moll Thermo Cover: 4m X 1.5 m covers 5 typical "bus style" windows and, importantly, the tape peels off easily without leaving a residue on the wooden frame. I have used it for years and found it very effective and unobtrusive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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