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Bleeding a gravity fed sr2


Spoonman

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Although i get the process of replacing the fuel filter and the need  of bleeding the engine afterwards as far as i can tell there is no fuel lift pump to manually push the fuel through the system when bleeding at the fuel filter.

 

 the100 gallon fuel tank is built in to the steel hull  at the stern of the boat, going to the engine which is at a lower level so I'm guessing it is gravity fed?

 

how would i go about bleeding the system without a fuel lift pump ? Actually running the engine instead ? Does it require tampering with the fuel injectors ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Spoonman
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Given a sufficient fuel head and the tap turned on simply loosening one of the bleed screws or the outlet connection should allow the air to escape given time. Then tighten up.

 

Some SRs are self bleeding so on those you spin it on the starter and hope. The rest may well need to be bled so loosen the large injector unions under the rocker covers, pack with rag to absorb any fuel, spin in the starter and when the fuel spits out of the unions tighten them and it should start. There area also bleed screws on the injector pump but using those requires the side cover to be removed.

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Mine rarely needs bleeding. If it doesn't start straight away, I'll open the bleed screws, turn the engine over until diesel comes out. Last time the filter was changed the guy waggled a lever on some pump or other swearing it would push the fuel through. It didn't. We just tightened everything back up and the engine started first time and ran happily, or as happily as a Lister ever does.

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15 hours ago, Arthur Marshall said:

Mine rarely needs bleeding. If it doesn't start straight away, I'll open the bleed screws, turn the engine over until diesel comes out. Last time the filter was changed the guy waggled a lever on some pump or other swearing it would push the fuel through. It didn't. We just tightened everything back up and the engine started first time and ran happily, or as happily as a Lister ever does.

When using the manual lever on a fuel pump, you need to ensure that the pump is in a position to enable the lever to move the diaphragm. You can tell by the feel of the lever whether it is moving something or just waggling up and down. Turning the engine manually for half a rev or so will demonstrate the characteristics.

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1 hour ago, Ex Brummie said:

When using the manual lever on a fuel pump, you need to ensure that the pump is in a position to enable the lever to move the diaphragm. You can tell by the feel of the lever whether it is moving something or just waggling up and down. Turning the engine manually for half a rev or so will demonstrate the characteristics.

And there's something else I didn't know. The original pump didn't have a manual lever, so I've never really got the hang of it. Thanks for the info.

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