Alde 2928 continually sparking

[MtB]

16 minutes ago, David Mack said:

It sort of worked but was a real faff. I ended up removing the whole burner assembly (about a million self tappers on the front to undo),

 

18 IIRC. 

 

I counted them last time I did one, but failed to write it down! 

[Tony Brooks]

7 hours ago, David Mack said:

The Alde that came with Belfast was very temperamental to light. The previous owner showed me how he addressed the problem by unscrewing the viewing window glass, then wiping the jet with a pipe cleaner soaked in WD40. It sort of worked but was a real faff. I ended up removing the whole burner assembly (about a million self tappers on the front to undo), having disconnected the gas supply pipe outside the casing. And of course to actually get the burner/front plate assembly completely out I had to cut out a bit of the wardrobe it was housed in. But it did give me the opportunity to clean the whole thing properly. And afterwards it lit like a dream.

 

I used to do similar but used an air duster with the tube on the top to blow through the air hoes in the burner and then gently scrape any carbon off the thermal probe, taking acre not to bend it. However I found that if the little window was not in place the chimney draw through the open hole often seemed to prevent the burner lighting and sustaining the flame.

 

I think the cam on mine was a separate piece secured to the long control rod by a single screw so have a look all the way up and down the rod in case it has slipped down.

[Opener]

Step 1 - what MtB says. I don't even bother with the Alde first any more. Always purge the gas line first by lighting the hob. THEN try the Alde. It still takes a while to purge that shorter arm.

Step 2 - if you are sufficiently flexible, grovel on the floor looking through the sight glass whilst pressing your contact switch (don't bother about gas at this stage) - are you getting a healthy spark at the electrode? I've found over a few years of ownership that the spark generator module is practically a disposable item. It does not seem to like Winter-long neglect and if you have not ego-massaged yours for a couple of years it may be sulking. Replacement may be the answer. [I've got a telltale lamp in circuit with my manual switch so I have an indication of sparking without the need to grovel on the floor quite as much]

[Opener]

" There is currently no water in the system, radiators need reconnecting. I was only trying to light the pilot briefly as a test. "  - I'd GUESS that that should not compromise your test. When working the boiler main burner cycles. Burner on = heat - water in boiler gets heated - reaches set temperature (how far round the black knob is set) switches off gas to burner - water cools/pumped around circuit - thermostat senses drop in temp - gas to burner - ignites via pilot. I'd reckon that a SHORT period with the pilot lit - even with the main burner on - should not be detrimental - but a short period otherwise you will be trying to burn the water jacket.

[Tony Brooks]

6 minutes ago, Opener said:

" There is currently no water in the system, radiators need reconnecting. I was only trying to light the pilot briefly as a test. "  - I'd GUESS that that should not compromise your test. When working the boiler main burner cycles. Burner on = heat - water in boiler gets heated - reaches set temperature (how far round the black knob is set) switches off gas to burner - water cools/pumped around circuit - thermostat senses drop in temp - gas to burner - ignites via pilot. I'd reckon that a SHORT period with the pilot lit - even with the main burner on - should not be detrimental - but a short period otherwise you will be trying to burn the water jacket.

Totally agree - especially the SHORT bit.

[MtB]

1 hour ago, Opener said:

Step 1 - what MtB says. I don't even bother with the Alde first any more. Always purge the gas line first by lighting the hob. THEN try the Alde. It still takes a while to purge that shorter arm.

Step 2 - if you are sufficiently flexible, grovel on the floor looking through the sight glass whilst pressing your contact switch (don't bother about gas at this stage) - are you getting a healthy spark at the electrode? I've found over a few years of ownership that the spark generator module is practically a disposable item. It does not seem to like Winter-long neglect and if you have not ego-massaged yours for a couple of years it may be sulking. Replacement may be the answer. [I've got a telltale lamp in circuit with my manual switch so I have an indication of sparking without the need to grovel on the floor quite as much]

 

I need to do this on a regular basis when fixing boilers (which is my occupation). Or more accurately I don't, because I use a mirror to look through the viewing port so often near floor level.

 

The best ideas are often obvious, but only once someone has suggested them!   

[Nemysys]

Thank you all, I think based on comments, it is probably a gummed up pilot light mechanism. The amount of hammering and vibration during the ‘ongoing’ refit could quite easily have disturbed something.
 

unfortunately, I’m not flexible, I’m a double leg amputee and yes the viewing window is on the floor. In the new year when the rads are reconnected again, I’m going to get the Alde / whole CH system serviced. Don’t want to mess around with gas and CO, even with alarms fitted. 

[Tracy D'arth]

12 minutes ago, Nemysys said:

Thank you all, I think based on comments, it is probably a gummed up pilot light mechanism. The amount of hammering and vibration during the ‘ongoing’ refit could quite easily have disturbed something.
 

unfortunately, I’m not flexible, I’m a double leg amputee and yes the viewing window is on the floor. In the new year when the rads are reconnected again, I’m going to get the Alde / whole CH system serviced. Don’t want to mess around with gas and CO, even with alarms fitted. 

A Very sound course of action.

[Nemysys]

As always, big thanks to all who have commented and helped. 
 

This forum never seems to fail to deliver. Very helpful.