Best Webasto model for DIY

[Håkan Wergeni]

What is the best Webasto model you can buy from a scrapyard for heating 24/7 ?

 

TT Evo 5
£100 from 2020.
Impossible to run more than 2 hours from my findings. It's an old model so I found it strange that no one has come up with a solution to use this one... 

 

TT Evo 55
£300 from 2019
No information and not that common, I assume the same problem as TT Evo 5.

 

TT C
£200 from 2011
Safe bet. This is the model I will go for if no one can point me in the right direction for a workaround for TT Evo 5. 

 

Is it possible to change the settings, enable permanent operation, with the “Webasto Thermo Test” diagnostic software and dongle from Ebay? 

 

Can Arduino or Raspberry be a solution to restart the burner when “Max duration” is achieved?

 

I have done a lot of research but its quite difficult to find the right info. I also know it's possible to buy a marine kit from a dealer but I like to reuse stuff and I also have a tight budget so my option is secondhand stuff for the moment. 

[Tonka]

7 minutes ago, Håkan Wergeni said:

What is the best Webasto model you can buy from a scrapyard for heating 24/7 ?

 

TT Evo 5
£100 from 2020.
Impossible to run more than 2 hours from my findings. It's an old model so I found it strange that no one has come up with a solution to use this one... 

 

TT Evo 55
£300 from 2019
No information and not that common, I assume the same problem as TT Evo 5.

 

TT C
£200 from 2011
Safe bet. This is the model I will go for if no one can point me in the right direction for a workaround for TT Evo 5. 

 

Is it possible to change the settings, enable permanent operation, with the “Webasto Thermo Test” diagnostic software and dongle from Ebay? 

 

Can Arduino or Raspberry be a solution to restart the burner when “Max duration” is achieved?

 

I have done a lot of research but its quite difficult to find the right info. I also know it's possible to buy a marine kit from a dealer but I like to reuse stuff and I also have a tight budget so my option is secondhand stuff for the moment. 

But how do get a marine unit rather then an automotive unit

[Tony Brooks]

To amplify what Tonka said. The voltage map in the unit is different for a marine unit with lower cut out voltages. If you fit an automotive one, then expect apparent "battery" problems. It won't be the batteries normally, it will be the automotive unit shutting down on low voltage.

 

Then there is the question of CO leaking from an automotive exhaust when fitted into a boat.

Edited October 5, 2021 by Tony Brooks

[Håkan Wergeni]

47 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

To amplify what Tonka said. The voltage map in the unit is different for a marine unit with lower cut out voltages. If you fit an automotive one, then expect apparent "battery" problems. It won't be the batteries normally, it will be the automotive unit shutting down on low voltage.

 

Then there is the question of CO leaking from an automotive exhaust when fitted into a boat.

Low voltage not a problem for me.

 

I have a proper marine exhaust.

Thanks for the concern.

 

 

1 hour ago, Tonka said:

But how do get a marine unit rather then an automotive unit

Where do I get marine unit for £200?

Edited October 5, 2021 by Håkan Wergeni

[Alan de Enfield]

9 minutes ago, Håkan Wergeni said:

Where do I get marine unit for £200?

 

I don't think you can.

Sometimes we have to accept that we cannot buy what we want for the budget we have, so, we either increase the budget or find some other way of doing the task.

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

To amplify what Tonka said. The voltage map in the unit is different for a marine unit with lower cut out voltages. If you fit an automotive one, then expect apparent "battery" problems. It won't be the batteries normally, it will be the automotive unit shutting down on low voltage.

 

Then there is the question of CO leaking from an automotive exhaust when fitted into a boat.

 

Unless of course the boat happens to be on shore power in winter with a battery charger supplying the 12v system. The automotive silencer can easily be sealed with a 6mm screw and locknut.

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Håkan Wergeni said:

What is the best Webasto model you can buy from a scrapyard for heating 24/7 ?

 

 

I doubt any of them are any good for 24/7 use as a primary heater in winter. If you're living aboard in winter you need a more reliable heating system. These types of diesel heaters (Webasto, eberspacher, mikuni, hurricane, etc) are only of use for supplementary heating.

[matty40s]

11 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I doubt any of them are any good for 24/7 use as a primary heater in winter. If you're living aboard in winter you need a more reliable heating system. These types of diesel heaters (Webasto, eberspacher, mikuni, hurricane, etc) are only of use for supplementary heating.

You tell that to a lorry driver in Scandanavia or Siberia 

[Tonka]

1 minute ago, matty40s said:

You tell that to a lorry driver in Scandanavia or Siberia 

A lorry cab is smaller then a cabin

[Mad Harold]

At the risk of getting a load of flak from forum members I will give my (two years worth) findings with a hot air diesel heater.

It's a 5KW Chinaspacher and has worked pefectly for the two years it has been installed.

The book says it works from 11.6 V to12.4V.

The whole kit was less than £100 but you can double that when you buy extra exhaust and inlet tubing,and proper insulated exhaust outlet which was £50 alone.Plus you will need copper brake piping for fuel feed,as the piping that comes with the kit is plastic.

It takes about 12 amps for about five minutes on it's start up cycle and drops to just 1 amp on it's lowest heat setting.

It has worked perfectly overnight, but for longer use you would need hook up to a battery charger.Don't know this for certain as the longest I have had it on was about twelve hours.

They are certainly worthy of consideration as the whole kit is cheaper than some of the spares for Ebers etc.

I keep a spare glowplug (£12) and a fuel pump (£20) and if it needs anything more then I will simply chuck it in the scrap skip and buy another as the wiring and piping are aleady in place,it will simply need unbolting and the new unit fitting.

[Håkan Wergeni]

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

 

I doubt any of them are any good for 24/7 use as a primary heater in winter. If you're living aboard in winter you need a more reliable heating system. These types of diesel heaters (Webasto, eberspacher, mikuni, hurricane, etc) are only of use for supplementary heating.

If lucky I can be out for max a week during the winter, I'm not living aboard.  

[Håkan Wergeni]

30 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

At the risk of getting a load of flak from forum members I will give my (two years worth) findings with a hot air diesel heater.

It's a 5KW Chinaspacher and has worked pefectly for the two years it has been installed.

The book says it works from 11.6 V to12.4V.

The whole kit was less than £100 but you can double that when you buy extra exhaust and inlet tubing,and proper insulated exhaust outlet which was £50 alone.Plus you will need copper brake piping for fuel feed,as the piping that comes with the kit is plastic.

It takes about 12 amps for about five minutes on it's start up cycle and drops to just 1 amp on it's lowest heat setting.

It has worked perfectly overnight, but for longer use you would need hook up to a battery charger.Don't know this for certain as the longest I have had it on was about twelve hours.

They are certainly worthy of consideration as the whole kit is cheaper than some of the spares for Ebers etc.

I keep a spare glowplug (£12) and a fuel pump (£20) and if it needs anything more then I will simply chuck it in the scrap skip and buy another as the wiring and piping are aleady in place,it will simply need unbolting and the new unit fitting.

Thanks for a constructiv post.

We have a Wallas air heater today and want to add a TT of some kind to the mix. 

[Håkan Wergeni]

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I don't think you can.

Sometimes we have to accept that we cannot buy what we want for the budget we have, so, we either increase the budget or find some other way of doing the task.

How will your comment add a constructive way forward for me?

My wish list is very looooong.

TT C is enought for my needs if I don't "find some other way of doing the task"...

 

 

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

 

Unless of course the boat happens to be on shore power in winter with a battery charger supplying the 12v system. The automotive silencer can easily be sealed with a 6mm screw and locknut.

LiFePO4 sort that problem. 

[Cas446]

4 hours ago, Håkan Wergeni said:

What is the best Webasto model you can buy from a scrapyard for heating 24/7 ?

 

I use a thermo top V from a jaguar s type, £25, it does not have onboard water pump control which is ideal for me as I use the same water circuit via a heat exchanger for waste heat from the engine so control it with a simple delay drop off relay circuit. The low voltage cut off is set at 10V so no issues, BUT you cannot just use a contact to start it, you have to use W-bus so I bought one of those webasto oval timers from Russia ebay. Alternatively buy the same unit from a Land Rover Discovery for about £45, these have on board pump control, (however do not buy the TTV EVO, as you cant start these from w-bus). If you search around ebay you can also get one with the fuel pump thrown in and look for one with the plugs on and loom cut so you don't have to buy plugs.  Looms are available from Poland via ebay but postage cost is high, it is simple to DIY just extend the cut off plugs. There is a guy on ebay who sells a home made W-bus interface card, search for a seller called 'onlywithpaypal'. I have used one of his pcbs for my hot tub for a few years now. Buy all the other bits you need from mvheating.co.uk. and if you need any plugs have a look at the shop on the Land Rover DISCO forum which is very well priced. Great little project. Obviously I did all mine a few years back, but I doubt much has changed.

[Håkan Wergeni]

Thanks for this information, much appreciated, TT V added to the list. 

3 hours ago, Cas446 said:

 

I use a thermo top V from a jaguar s type, £25, it does not have onboard water pump control which is ideal for me as I use the same water circuit via a heat exchanger for waste heat from the engine so control it with a simple delay drop off relay circuit. The low voltage cut off is set at 10V so no issues, BUT you cannot just use a contact to start it, you have to use W-bus so I bought one of those webasto oval timers from Russia ebay. Alternatively buy the same unit from a Land Rover Discovery for about £45, these have on board pump control, (however do not buy the TTV EVO, as you cant start these from w-bus). If you search around ebay you can also get one with the fuel pump thrown in and look for one with the plugs on and loom cut so you don't have to buy plugs.  Looms are available from Poland via ebay but postage cost is high, it is simple to DIY just extend the cut off plugs. There is a guy on ebay who sells a home made W-bus interface card, search for a seller called 'onlywithpaypal'. I have used one of his pcbs for my hot tub for a few years now. Buy all the other bits you need from mvheating.co.uk. and if you need any plugs have a look at the shop on the Land Rover DISCO forum which is very well priced. Great little project. Obviously I did all mine a few years back, but I doubt much has changed.

 

Edited October 5, 2021 by Håkan Wergeni
Newbie error

[cheesegas]

On 05/10/2021 at 18:04, blackrose said:

 

Unless of course the boat happens to be on shore power in winter with a battery charger supplying the 12v system. The automotive silencer can easily be sealed with a 6mm screw and locknut.

Unfortunately just sealing the condensate drain isn’t enough - they’re only spot welded together and considerable exhaust leaks out the seams. If you cover the outlet and drain with your fingers, it’s easy to blow into the inlet still. Lots of leaks. 

[blackrose]

On 08/10/2021 at 08:30, cheesegas said:

Unfortunately just sealing the condensate drain isn’t enough - they’re only spot welded together and considerable exhaust leaks out the seams. If you cover the outlet and drain with your fingers, it’s easy to blow into the inlet still. Lots of leaks. 

 

That wasn't the case with the automotive silencer that came with my kit. Once I sealed the condensate drain with a 6mm bolt and lock nut there were no leaks. Blew into it as hard as I could and it was well sealed.