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Has anyone used a Morso 04 stove on a boat? I am looking for burner advice!


P1PPA

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I am looking for a really good multi fuel stove for my boat.

I like the look and sound of the Morso 04, but I am concerned it needs a much longer flue than is possible on a boat. And I just don't know if it's a practical choice for a boat as I haven't found anyone who has one yet on their boat.... yet.

 

I'm very interested to hear if anyone has any experiences?

Or alternative suggestions.

 

I'm looking for a 5kw multi fuel stove. Ideally with good control for overnight burning. Two doors would be ideal like the squirrel, for control, but not essential. Defra approved would be nice, but not essential.

 

I liked the Hobbit, but it's a little on the small side.

I like the squirrel range (size is ideal), but not looking for alternative options.

 

Thanks all!

 

 

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I'm possibly writing a load of rubbish as my use is cruising and not for living - but 5KW seems an helluva large output for a narrowboat - and that maybe why large stoves are not seen in NBs.

Our stove is (unquoted) around 2 - 3Kw and I find (IIRC) that I have to shut it down qhite severly after its got to temperature.

 

A two door stove is going to be quite a beast and to avoid you getting burnt as you pass by means that it'll have to be installed tight into the gunnel to avoid burning you. Have a look at boats for sale on the duck and 'most' are small units placed at an angle to that the heat is better distributed into the living area.

 

It'll be interesting to see whether anyone agrees with me...

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6 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

I'm possibly writing a load of rubbish as my use is cruising and not for living - but 5KW seems an helluva large output for a narrowboat - and that maybe why large stoves are not seen in NBs.

Our stove is (unquoted) around 2 - 3Kw and I find (IIRC) that I have to shut it down qhite severly after its got to temperature.

 

A two door stove is going to be quite a beast and to avoid you getting burnt as you pass by means that it'll have to be installed tight into the gunnel to avoid burning you. Have a look at boats for sale on the duck and 'most' are small units placed at an angle to that the heat is better distributed into the living area.

 

It'll be interesting to see whether anyone agrees with me...

I think when he says 2 doors he means one for the fire and one for the ash pan 

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Welcome to CWDF, Pippa. We had a Becton Bunny on our last boat and were very pleased with its performance.

We currently have a Godin Radiolette, but as it as made in 1934 it could be hard to find one these days!

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We have an original model Squirrel.  1404, I think.  It whacks out plenty of heat, on Excel or Homefire, and is fine with about 6ft of flue- 4 ft 6 in ish inside and 18 in (removable) outside. We use the rear entry (Ooh matron) so the draught is less than for a straight flue. Two doors, two air controls. Two bits of steel at the sides to funnel the fuel in like Morso coal rails do, but lots cheaper!

 

Only issue is the propensity to crack, but loosening all the securing bolts a little has helped there.

 

N

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No worries 🙂

 

The Ekol Clarity 5 looks like a really good one. If you load it up and go out all day/night, how long do the embers generally last (ie. you can chuck some wood on and it gets going again?)

Do you have a very long flue?

 

Thanks.

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1 minute ago, P1PPA said:

No worries 🙂

 

The Ekol Clarity 5 looks like a really good one. If you load it up and go out all day/night, how long do the embers generally last (ie. you can chuck some wood on and it gets going again?)

Do you have a very long flue?

 

Thanks.

Well it is in a narrowboat so does not have a long flue and only a 12 inch chimney on top of the roof. The hardest thing with it is getting it to go out. It seems to on for ever. In the morning we just open the vents (3 of them) and away it goes. 

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11 minutes ago, Tonka said:

Well it is in a narrowboat so does not have a long flue and only a 12 inch chimney on top of the roof. The hardest thing with it is getting it to go out. It seems to on for ever. In the morning we just open the vents (3 of them) and away it goes. 

How is it with cleaning it out? The new ones don't have a removable baffle plate which made me wonder what the implications of this is.

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3 minutes ago, P1PPA said:

How is it with cleaning it out? The new ones don't have a removable baffle plate which made me wonder what the implications of this is.

I just remove the baffle plate and get the ash hoover in to clean it all out once a year. Where does it say that the baffle plate is not removable

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6 minutes ago, P1PPA said:

Apparently it's a thing with the more modern ones.

 

I watched this video and also spoke to the guy from here:

 

 

That video is 6 years old. We fitted ours in 2017 so I don't think he is right as ours certainly comes out every year.

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5 minutes ago, Tonka said:

That video is 6 years old. We fitted ours in 2017 so I don't think he is right as ours certainly comes out every year.

Interesting, thanks for that information. I will double check my facts!

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I have an old Morso 1410 with a cast iron back boiler that doubles as a deflector and obviously cannot be removed. I dumped the ash vac years ago as it created more dust than it captured. After sweeping the chimney I don a a glove and remove the crud from the top of the back boiler. A matter of a couple of minutes work. No issues with it drawing with an 18" chimney. Confident that when I replace it with a 12" one it will still draw. The 1410 is rated at 4.5 kW and it is perfectly adequate for my 55' nb with 2 gravity fed rads. Somewhere on board I have x2 engineering house bricks. These can be used to reduce heat output/fuel consumption. Should add that I take some manufacturers performance figures with a pinch of salt. Looking on Morso's site a few minutes ago one ad quoted output at both 4.6 kW and 5 kW on the same page and 3 lines apart.

Edited by Slim
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  • 1 month later...

How to calculate kw required to heat the cabin

 

Take the measurements of your cabin area  in feet. The multiply the Length of the cabin x the Width of the cabin x the Height of the cabin.

The multiply this figure by a factor of 6 for BTU's or by 0.0606 for kW.

The result is now the mimimum heat output required to heat the cablin when outside temperature is -10C

 

The figure qouted for heat output of  a stove is the tested safe output, Stoves will putout more than the rated heat when overfired   

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On 04/10/2021 at 14:42, Tonka said:

I just remove the baffle plate and get the ash hoover in to clean it all out once a year. Where does it say that the baffle plate is not removable

 

Maybe it doesn't have a baffle plate. 

 

I took the baffle plate out of my Boatman Stove (by Northern Fabrictions) with no discernible change in stove behaviour, other than the rust dropping down the flue no longer piled up on top of it blocking the flue-way. A big improvement and I wouldn't be surprised if stove manus stopped fitting them as the seem pointless. 

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36 minutes ago, nbfiresprite said:

How to calculate kw required to heat the cabin

 

Take the measurements of your cabin area  in feet. The multiply the Length of the cabin x the Width of the cabin x the Height of the cabin.

The multiply this figure by a factor of 6 for BTU's or by 0.0606 for kW.

The result is now the mimimum heat output required to heat the cablin when outside temperature is -10C

 

The figure qouted for heat output of  a stove is the tested safe output, Stoves will putout more than the rated heat when overfired   

Surely the factor is dependent on how well insulated your cabin is. A cabin with double glazed portholes and sprayfoam insulation will need far less heat to keep warm than one with large single glazed windows and loose polystyrene behind the lining.

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1 minute ago, David Mack said:

Surely the factor is dependent on how well insulated your cabin is. A cabin with double glazed portholes and sprayfoam insulation will need far less heat to keep warm than one with large single glazed windows and loose polystyrene behind the lining.

 

Not only that, but some peeps are happy with 18c in the cabin with jumpers on, while others prefer it at 26c in tee shirts. As the heat loss is proportional to the square of the temperature difference, the latter will probably require aboiut twice the heat energy. 

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4 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Not only that, but some peeps are happy with 18c in the cabin with jumpers on, while others prefer it at 26c in tee shirts. As the heat loss is proportional to the square of the temperature difference, the latter will probably require aboiut twice the heat energy. 

Not forgetting the ventilation requirements and unofficial ventilation, drafts . 

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