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Blacking in winter


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11 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:

I’ve got two options. Black under tunnel in February or black uncovered in May at different site. I’m a bit worried that it might be too cold in February to black. But it might also rain in May 😏. Any thoughts? 

 

 

You will have absolutely no problem blacking in February as long as the tunnel is heated and you can get the boat into the tunnel 1 week before you start blacking to get the metal up to temperature, and then one week properly blacking. The heating needs to be on for the full 2 weeks.

 

Why not book the tunnel for May or June or July ?

The temperature is better, and, you are undercover for the odd shower.

In this country it can rain anytime.

 

Where in the country are you ?

A nice heated dry dock in Nottingham, but you will need to book 9 - 12 months in advance.

 

 

 

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Edited by Alan de Enfield
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29 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

You will have absolutely no problem blacking in February as long as the tunnel is heated and you can get the boat into the tunnel 1 week before you start blacking to get the metal up to temperature, and then one week properly blacking. The heating needs to be on for the full 2 weeks.

 

Why not book the tunnel for May or June or July ?

The temperature is better, and, you are undercover for the odd shower.

In this country it can rain anytime.

 

Where in the country are you ?

A nice heated dry dock in Nottingham, but you will need to book 9 - 12 months in advance.

 

 

 

CAM00052.jpg


I’m usually around Watford and Luton.  Going into a tunnel for two weeks is going to be a bit pricey. I’ll probably just do it outside in the summer. 

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There might be a suitable space in the heated slipway at Circus Field. Have a look on the Aylesbury Canal Society site. 

Most boats go in Monday and pressure wash ( washer included in dock costs) and prep. Then first black Tuesday.  

The slipway walls are thick, so it keeps warm, unlike a poly tunnel.

 

N

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23 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:

I’ve got two options. Black under tunnel in February or black uncovered in May at different site. I’m a bit worried that it might be too cold in February to black. But it might also rain in May 😏. Any thoughts? 

 

Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again.

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2 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again.

 

Or, put it on over the top of condensation, as the temperature was below dew point, and you'll be doing it again in 2 months.

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18 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again.


I did it myself 2 1/2 years ago. 2 coats. That was outside in the summer. 4 days and back in. That time I took all the old blacking off and then fresh coats. Is it best to give it a quick sand and slap new coats over the old coats? Or complete strip and new coats? 

Edited by MrBoater2021
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14 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said:


I did it myself 2 1/2 years ago. 2 coats. That was outside in the summer. 4 days and back in. That time I took all the old blacking off and then fresh coats. Is it best to give it a quick sand and slap new coats over the old coats? Or complete strip and new coats? 

 

How did you strip it all back last time? It's a lot of work. 

 

I would just attack any areas of rust with an angle grinder and wire wheels and leave it at that. You could give any sound paint a key but sandpaper is likely to get clogged with bitumen fairly quickly and new bitumen sticks to old bitumen pretty well without a key so I wouldn't bother. If you're getting the boat out of the water every 2-3 years you should have nothing to worry about. Be careful about using sanding discs below the waterline. You'll get a nice key but you'll also be taking off precious microns of good steel.

 

One thing that can make bitumen last a bit longer (say another year) is a couple of coats of either International Primocon Primer or Jotamastic Vinyguard Primer onto any bare steel around the waterline. Both paints are basically the same stuff - silver, single part underwater primer. It can overlap onto areas of bitmen too, acting as a tie layer. Very easy to apply and quick drying.

Edited by blackrose
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3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

How did you strip it all back last time? It's a lot of work. 

 

I would just attack any areas of rust with an angle grinder and wire wheels and leave it at that. You could give any sound paint a key but sandpaper is likely to get clogged with bitumen fairly quickly and new bitumen sticks to old bitumen pretty well without a key so I wouldn't bother. If you're getting the boat out of the water every 2-3 years you should have nothing to worry about.

 

One thing that can make bitumen last a bit longer (say another year) is a couple of coats of either International Primocon Primer or Jotamastic Vinyguard Primer onto any bare steel around the waterline. Both paints are basically the same stuff - silver, single part underwater primer. It can overlap onto areas of bitmen too, acting as a tie layer. Very easy to apply and quick drying.

I used a grinder and wire brush attachment. Knackering work. I’ll give those primers a go. I think most of the damaged blacking on my boat is caused by me bashing into things but is starting to look orange in places. 

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