MrBoater2021 Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 I’ve got two options. Black under tunnel in February or black uncovered in May at different site. I’m a bit worried that it might be too cold in February to black. But it might also rain in May 😏. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmelly Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 Unheated in february is not a good idea. Steel will be too cold, damp in the air etc etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) 11 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said: I’ve got two options. Black under tunnel in February or black uncovered in May at different site. I’m a bit worried that it might be too cold in February to black. But it might also rain in May 😏. Any thoughts? You will have absolutely no problem blacking in February as long as the tunnel is heated and you can get the boat into the tunnel 1 week before you start blacking to get the metal up to temperature, and then one week properly blacking. The heating needs to be on for the full 2 weeks. Why not book the tunnel for May or June or July ? The temperature is better, and, you are undercover for the odd shower. In this country it can rain anytime. Where in the country are you ? A nice heated dry dock in Nottingham, but you will need to book 9 - 12 months in advance. Edited September 28, 2021 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBoater2021 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 29 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: You will have absolutely no problem blacking in February as long as the tunnel is heated and you can get the boat into the tunnel 1 week before you start blacking to get the metal up to temperature, and then one week properly blacking. The heating needs to be on for the full 2 weeks. Why not book the tunnel for May or June or July ? The temperature is better, and, you are undercover for the odd shower. In this country it can rain anytime. Where in the country are you ? A nice heated dry dock in Nottingham, but you will need to book 9 - 12 months in advance. I’m usually around Watford and Luton. Going into a tunnel for two weeks is going to be a bit pricey. I’ll probably just do it outside in the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 There might be a suitable space in the heated slipway at Circus Field. Have a look on the Aylesbury Canal Society site. Most boats go in Monday and pressure wash ( washer included in dock costs) and prep. Then first black Tuesday. The slipway walls are thick, so it keeps warm, unlike a poly tunnel. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 23 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said: I’ve got two options. Black under tunnel in February or black uncovered in May at different site. I’m a bit worried that it might be too cold in February to black. But it might also rain in May 😏. Any thoughts? Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, blackrose said: Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again. Or, put it on over the top of condensation, as the temperature was below dew point, and you'll be doing it again in 2 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBoater2021 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) 18 minutes ago, blackrose said: Neither option is ideal, but on the other hand bitumen blacking doesn't last very long however meticulous your application. It's just a case of prep the surface as best you can and slap it on, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll be back out of the water in a couple of years doing it again. I did it myself 2 1/2 years ago. 2 coats. That was outside in the summer. 4 days and back in. That time I took all the old blacking off and then fresh coats. Is it best to give it a quick sand and slap new coats over the old coats? Or complete strip and new coats? Edited September 28, 2021 by MrBoater2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted September 28, 2021 Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) 14 minutes ago, MrBoater2021 said: I did it myself 2 1/2 years ago. 2 coats. That was outside in the summer. 4 days and back in. That time I took all the old blacking off and then fresh coats. Is it best to give it a quick sand and slap new coats over the old coats? Or complete strip and new coats? How did you strip it all back last time? It's a lot of work. I would just attack any areas of rust with an angle grinder and wire wheels and leave it at that. You could give any sound paint a key but sandpaper is likely to get clogged with bitumen fairly quickly and new bitumen sticks to old bitumen pretty well without a key so I wouldn't bother. If you're getting the boat out of the water every 2-3 years you should have nothing to worry about. Be careful about using sanding discs below the waterline. You'll get a nice key but you'll also be taking off precious microns of good steel. One thing that can make bitumen last a bit longer (say another year) is a couple of coats of either International Primocon Primer or Jotamastic Vinyguard Primer onto any bare steel around the waterline. Both paints are basically the same stuff - silver, single part underwater primer. It can overlap onto areas of bitmen too, acting as a tie layer. Very easy to apply and quick drying. Edited September 28, 2021 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBoater2021 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2021 3 minutes ago, blackrose said: How did you strip it all back last time? It's a lot of work. I would just attack any areas of rust with an angle grinder and wire wheels and leave it at that. You could give any sound paint a key but sandpaper is likely to get clogged with bitumen fairly quickly and new bitumen sticks to old bitumen pretty well without a key so I wouldn't bother. If you're getting the boat out of the water every 2-3 years you should have nothing to worry about. One thing that can make bitumen last a bit longer (say another year) is a couple of coats of either International Primocon Primer or Jotamastic Vinyguard Primer onto any bare steel around the waterline. Both paints are basically the same stuff - silver, single part underwater primer. It can overlap onto areas of bitmen too, acting as a tie layer. Very easy to apply and quick drying. I used a grinder and wire brush attachment. Knackering work. I’ll give those primers a go. I think most of the damaged blacking on my boat is caused by me bashing into things but is starting to look orange in places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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