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Diverting roof drainage channels


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We have a Colecraft with the upsweep at the stern. The drain points are over windows so to avoid water getting into the boat we have to keep them shut!! On more than one occasion we have opened the windows then forgot to shut them when leaving the boat and returned to find a wet Mattress!! I would like to find a permanent solution and moving the windows is not it.

 

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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Well if anyone had to have one puddle it would have to be you!  All I can say is that I have not seen one do this. Perhaps the boat name encouraged puddles to lie idle on the roof instead of running off?

The gaps in the handrails were too far forward hence the puddles.

 

Edited by Loddon
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6 minutes ago, Loddon said:

The gaps in the handrails were too far forward hence the puddles.

 

We had the gaps in the handrails on our Jonathan Wilson welded up and new ones cut slightly further back as we would always have puddles.  We now only get a puddle if the water tank is full and the diesel tank low.

  • Greenie 1
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21 minutes ago, Rob-M said:

We had the gaps in the handrails on our Jonathan Wilson welded up and new ones cut slightly further back as we would always have puddles.  We now only get a puddle if the water tank is full and the diesel tank low.

I don't feel so lonely now 🤭 I never got round to doing that.

  • Happy 1
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12 hours ago, Loddon said:

Get more ballast in the bow so the water runs forward.😎 

If you must put a drain through the handrail it will need to be welded in position.

 

Yes what you're proposing is fine apart from the araldite. Once the steel has expanded and contracted a few times with heat and cold the brittle araldite will crack and the rain water will get inside the handrails which will rust. Do the right thing and get the modifications welded. 

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Cal Ando said:

Thanks for all your thoughts and advice so far.   I'l look for a welder.   Is it possible to weld onto the roof without having to strip the wooden ceiling and insulation inside?

 

 

Yes. the voids in the handrail can be cut out and welded. If you're worried about welding the diverters directly to the roof you could always just stick them on with Stixall. They'll still do the same job.

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21 hours ago, Cal Ando said:

Hi.   Mrs Ando suggested I run this by some people before drilling holes in my roof!

We have a standard NB with Liverpool style hull, 57' cruiser stern and pram cover.   The canopy is lovely BUT, the roof gutters were designed to channel rain off the roof and dump it over the rear bulkhead onto the cruiser stern where it would either flood over the sides or be taken away by the (regularly maintained and cleared) scuppers.   

Trouble is, with the pram cover up and heavy rains like we've had recently, the rainwater literally pours from the roof gutters and splashes on the rear deck inside the pram cover.   Approx 1 gallon/min the other day and looked like a leaking lock gate!

So I thought I'd cut a small rectangular section out the the roof gutter about 12" before the gutter's end and araldite some channel in the gap that would divert the rain water over the side before it reaches the end of the existing gutter - i.e diverting the flow over the side instead of over the end.   Alternatives would be to drill round holes and insert suitably shaped piece of pipe.  all inserts would be shaped to extend within the flow area to be sure of catching all water before the bulkhead.

Can anyone see any issues, faults or future maintenance issues with this plan, please?

Much appreciated in advance

 

A few years ago we looked at buying a semi trad boat with the same problem. The owner had attempted to address the issue by gluing a rectangular open topped plastic box to the bulkhead at the end of the gutter on each side, with the box drained by a plastic pipe which ran down through the stern lockers and exited through the hull side below the gunwale. The whole arrangement looked very 'Heath Robinson' on an otherwise well detailed shell. And judging by the amount of green moss and slime (the boat was badly neglected) all around and below these hoppers, they didn't catch all the rainwater coming through.

I would agree with others that the best option is to cut a drain through the handrail immediately forward of the canopy, with a raised diverter on the cabin top. Welded is going to be much more reliable in the long term for the handrail cut, although you can probably get away with a glued on diverter (although welded would be better).

 

Edited by David Mack
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On 30/07/2021 at 19:17, blackrose said:

 

Yes what you're proposing is fine apart from the araldite. Once the steel has expanded and contracted a few times with heat and cold the brittle araldite will crack and the rain water will get inside the handrails which will rust. Do the right thing and get the modifications welded. 

 

 

 

I hadn't thought about the expansion coefficients and should have!    Thank goodness for forums such as this and for all the wit and wisdom within!

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