Fabric of new cratch hood ?

[NewCanalBoy]

It has just been suggested to me that a better option for cratch hood fabric is to get it made from PVC as other types shrink over time.

Would people have any comments regarding this ?

From experience what would you have a new cover/hood made from ?

[GUMPY]

Acrylic canvas PVC backed is what mine is, no shrinkage at all after 5 years. 

Believe it is only available PU backed now.

[philjw]

Mine is canvas backed and after about 9 years it has shrunk so much it doesn't come anywhere near fitting.

I'll go for straight PVC.

[Machpoint005]

1 hour ago, Loddon said:

Acrylic canvas PVC backed is what mine is, no shrinkage at all after 5 years. 

Believe it is only available PU backed now.

 

Mine's the same. No shrinkage after 10 years but the stitching on one of the zips has just given way. The thread seems to have rotted (UV degradation?). I'm contemplating attempting a repair, if I can find a thimble to fit me!

 

The aft edges are bungees rather than studs.

[GUMPY]

10 minutes ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

Mine's the same. No shrinkage after 10 years but the stitching on one of the zips has just given way. The thread seems to have rotted (UV degradation?). I'm contemplating attempting a repair, if I can find a thimble to fit me!

 

The aft edges are bungees rather than studs.

I would just go back to the maker if they still exist and get them to restitch it, much easier for them than you.

Edited July 10, 2021 by Loddon

[Machpoint005]

Fair comment. 

They still exist.

 

[cuthound]

On 10/07/2021 at 20:28, Loddon said:

I would just go back to the maker if they still exist and get them to restitch it, much easier for them than you.

 

Indeed, when i bought my boat there were two small holes in it, where the sharp corners of the roof had worn through it. I took it to Kinver Canopies, although it was originally made by Wilson's, who were no longer in business. For a very reasonable sum, they sewed two small patches over the holes. 

 

However the cratch cover (the mohair effect with PVC backing) has shrunk slightly in the last three years, presumably due to the exceptionally hot summers.

[BEngo]

An excellent tool to keep aboard  for repairing canopies and the like, either pro tem or permanently, is a sailmaker's palm and needle, used with waxed seaming twine.

Also handy for rope whipping.

 

N

[NewCanalBoy]

Thinking about this a bit more and looking at pictures, when they fix the studs or fittings to the side of the boat, they will drill holes and put the fittings in.

 

Potentially this is a new place for rust to start in the future ?

 

I'm sure they don't go drilling holes then prime with paint, wait to dry and then put fittings in ?

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, NewCanalBoy said:

Thinking about this a bit more and looking at pictures, when they fix the studs or fittings to the side of the boat, they will drill holes and put the fittings in.

 

Potentially this is a new place for rust to start in the future ?

 

I'm sure they don't go drilling holes then prime with paint, wait to dry and then put fittings in ?

 

Drill hole.

Blob of sealant snot.

Screw in 'poppa' fitting.

Wipe away any excess 'snot'.

[Nightwatch]

I think we would seriously consider PVC if and when we need to. PVC is nothing like it used to be. It’s seems more supple.

[BEngo]

PVC is more supple through better plasticisers.  They still leach out over time though.

N

[Sea Dog]

On 13/07/2021 at 14:56, Nightwatch said:

I think we would seriously consider PVC if and when we need to. PVC is nothing like it used to be. It’s seems more supple.

I'd agree. A boat on a mooring near mine had a replacement canvas one made last year. After lock down it already looks as bad as the old one!  

[NewCanalBoy]

On 13/07/2021 at 14:41, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Drill hole.

Blob of sealant snot.

Screw in 'poppa' fitting.

Wipe away any excess 'snot'.

Well at least it's a bit more than I thought they might do !!

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, NewCanalBoy said:

Well at least it's a bit more than I thought they might do !!

 

I guess it depends on who does it and the price you pay, it would be as well sort out what they intend to do before commiting to using them.

[Grassman]

Perhaps a strange one but can anybody answer the question as to which material is best for not absorbing heat from direct sunlight so much? I spend a lot of time sat under the cratch using my laptop computer either at work or for leisure, but the sun penetrates the canvas to such an extent that it gets really hot in there. Rolling the side flap(s) up helps but often doesn't work very well because the direct sunlight makes it difficult to see the screen properly so I tend to only open them slightly.

 

I appreciate that whatever the material, the sun shining on it is going to make it generally hot inside, but being sat so close to it, the canvas seems to intensify the heat in the 6 inches or so immediately inside it.

 

We're considering having a new cratch cover soon and I wondered if those other materials would be better at keeping out the heat than canvas is, even if it's only marginally so.

[Alan de Enfield]

 

Shiney-White will be cooler than matt-Black

[Mad Harold]

34 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Shiney-White will be cooler than matt-Black

My foredeck is mainly painted white like the rest of the boat,but with two large sections painted with matt black walkway paint.

In direct sunlight the white sections are cool to touch,but the matt black sections are very hot.

So I agree with A de E.

[David Mack]

A loose-fitting flysheet over the top, vented at the ridge, so the sun heats the air between the two, and the heated air escapes.