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Fertan or vactan ?


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I know there load of bits about this and I been through them but cannot find a awsner 

so I rub all rust away I can in water tank now want to treat before paint 

I have fertan and used it before but have to wash of and I hear vactan you don’t to I am leaning towards vactan will this be ok under the tank paint ? 

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22 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

I know there load of bits about this and I been through them but cannot find a awsner 

so I rub all rust away I can in water tank now want to treat before paint 

I have fertan and used it before but have to wash of and I hear vactan you don’t to I am leaning towards vactan will this be ok under the tank paint ? 

Can't say ya or neh but I  did  just  that last week. Bas@@@d of a job

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Vactan leaves a vinyl coating, I can't see the bitumen tank failing to adhere to this but ask the makers of Vactan and your tank paint for peace of mind.

I have always just used tank bitumen straight onto the scraped steel, never had a problem. 

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It basically comes down to whether you think using Vactan's polymer layer as a long lasting primer is a good idea. Personally I don't. There's nothing wrong with the tannic acid used in Vactan but in my experience putting it into a matrix with a polymer means it's not as effective as a rust converter and the polymer itself makes for a poor primer. I would stick with your Fertan. It has a 20 year shelf life (as long as you don't pour product you've used or stick used brushes back into the bottle) compared to Vactan's 18 months shelf life.

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8 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If you throw your used tea bags into the tank, eventually the tannic acid will stop the rust and all you have to do is boil the water to brew up saving all that tea mined in the Yorkshire mines.

 

yeah but - if you are a liveaboard and do that regularly you will end up talking with a funny accent.  Apparently it affects the vocal chords and you end up sounding like a yorkie playing the rhythm guitar.

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6 minutes ago, CompairHolman said:

99% of boaters don't need to use rust converters they just splash it about for no reason just because it's the new " must have " fashion. Mostly they are wasting their time and money and don't even know what the purpose of these products really are.

 

 

 

I didn't think rust converters were that new? Haven't they been about for years?

 

Anyway, in general I agree, if you can remove the rust mechanically it's a much better idea.

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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

I remember my dad using kurust on his old cars

Parachem.   Jenolite.  All based on phosphoric acid.  I have used 85% phosphoric for years before priming to kill rust in the pit holes.

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Parachem.   Jenolite.  All based on phosphoric acid.  I have used 85% phosphoric for years before priming to kill rust in the pit holes.

Quite right I do the same, It's easy enough to obtain and not expensive.

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5 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Parachem.   Jenolite.  All based on phosphoric acid.  I have used 85% phosphoric for years before priming to kill rust in the pit holes.

That was the one I was trying to think of Jenolite, was there another with the navy connection?

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8 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

That was the one I was trying to think of Jenolite, was there another with the navy connection?

I just remember Jenolite Jelly being the good stuff back in the day (often followed by Yellow Chromate primer after red lead had gone).  More recently it was just straight phosphoric acid. I think Jenolite may well be another really effective product that's lost its teeth under new regs. My feet are in the Vactan camp nowadays.

 

@mrsmelly might have a different memory, but I think he would most likely have slapped a bit more pitch on or scarfed in a new timber...

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