Mdmyatt Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 (edited) Aup, just had my boat safety and failed due to the wrong fuel pipe on the spill rail. Currently it’s a 6mm od clear hose with push fit connections. Looked everywhere but can’t find any 6mm Od iso 7840. Just wondering what everyone else has done as I imagine I’ll have to replace all connections and think of something else. Edited June 2, 2021 by Mdmyatt Wrong word Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 6mm copper and brazed connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbclive Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 Welcome - some cleverer peeps will be along shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted June 2, 2021 Report Share Posted June 2, 2021 3 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said: 6mm copper and brazed connections. Agreed. Brazed or silver soldered connections. Soft soldered joints are also a fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0000 Posted June 3, 2021 Report Share Posted June 3, 2021 Agree with others, use 6mm copper and to make things easier, you could use compression fittings. (note: its not a "spill rail", its the air/petrol intake pipe and the pipework you are referring to is the diesel feed to the thermostarts). On my thermostarts, I just have a small reservoir on each unit which more than supplies enough diesel to get her started so maybe an option for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted June 4, 2021 Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 10 hours ago, BrandyMark said: Agree with others, use 6mm copper and to make things easier, you could use compression fittings. (note: its not a "spill rail", its the air/petrol intake pipe and the pipework you are referring to is the diesel feed to the thermostarts). On my thermostarts, I just have a small reservoir on each unit which more than supplies enough diesel to get her started so maybe an option for you. Thanks for that info. I have been looking at the image all day trying to work out what it was, made no sense to em as a spill rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted June 4, 2021 Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 10 hours ago, BrandyMark said: Agree with others, use 6mm copper and to make things easier, you could use compression fittings. (note: its not a "spill rail", its the air/petrol intake pipe and the pipework you are referring to is the diesel feed to the thermostarts). On my thermostarts, I just have a small reservoir on each unit which more than supplies enough diesel to get her started so maybe an option for you. This is probably the easier way to go. Would the thermostarts pass BSC without being piped? I can see no reason why not, a few teaspoons full of diesel has got to be safer than a plastic fuel line and push fit fittings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0000 Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Would be nice if the op responded to his post ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdmyatt Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 Sorry been in a tent in the woods in the middle of know where, just got back! I’ve been given some fittings and some 1/4 pipe just to get me through the bs, gives me some time to do a proper job sorting it out, It definitely looks like copper or the pot option is the way to go. It was the bs guy who called it a spill rail, apologies. Photo is pre eared o clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agg221 Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 On 03/06/2021 at 22:00, BrandyMark said: Agree with others, use 6mm copper and to make things easier, you could use compression fittings. (note: its not a "spill rail", its the air/petrol intake pipe and the pipework you are referring to is the diesel feed to the thermostarts). On my thermostarts, I just have a small reservoir on each unit which more than supplies enough diesel to get her started so maybe an option for you. Those thermostart reservoirs are a very elegant solution. Can I ask, do you have a source for them? Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 13 minutes ago, agg221 said: Those thermostart reservoirs are a very elegant solution. Can I ask, do you have a source for them? Alec I thought that too. I don't have Thermostarts on my K2. It starts very nicely straight to diesel by just waving a blowlamp around at the air intake, but Thermostarts would be nice. Is one per cylinder actually necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0000 Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 5 minutes ago, MtB said: I thought that too. I don't have Thermostarts on my K2. It starts very nicely straight to diesel by just waving a blowlamp around at the air intake, but Thermostarts would be nice. Is one per cylinder actually necessary? The diesel reservoirs on the thermstarts came with the engine so cannot help with like for like replacements, the proper name for these are "flip top oil cups" so maybe a search online will find some. Regarding the need for one thermostart for each cylinder, the answer is NO, only one required. I have two because that's what the previous owner fitted. Just a word of warning, if the thermostarts are allow to run dry, then they will just burn through the heating elements very quickly and they then are scrap - found out as part of my learning curve of Kelvin ownership! 24v thermostarts are not readily available so hard to replace (if anyone knows where they are available, then please let me know). 12v thermostarts were fitted to large numbers of agricultural machinery so can still be found so maybe worth designing a 12v electrical supply with suitable cabling to take the additional amps etc. Speaking of amps, Mtb, you maybe better off using a blowlamp because as we all know, any item with a heating element hammers the batteries and the K2 takes a lot of turning over so if your starting batteries are low then the extra load of the thermostarts may not leave enough umph to turn the K2. Having said that, the K2 will start within a revolution using the thermostarts so the batteries drain is normally not a concern if the batteries are fully charged. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agg221 Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 4 minutes ago, BrandyMark said: The diesel reservoirs on the thermstarts came with the engine so cannot help with like for like replacements, the proper name for these are "flip top oil cups" so maybe a search online will find some. Regarding the need for one thermostart for each cylinder, the answer is NO, only one required. I have two because that's what the previous owner fitted. Just a word of warning, if the thermostarts are allow to run dry, then they will just burn through the heating elements very quickly and they then are scrap - found out as part of my learning curve of Kelvin ownership! 24v thermostarts are not readily available so hard to replace (if anyone knows where they are available, then please let me know). 12v thermostarts were fitted to large numbers of agricultural machinery so can still be found so maybe worth designing a 12v electrical supply with suitable cabling to take the additional amps etc. Speaking of amps, Mtb, you maybe better off using a blowlamp because as we all know, any item with a heating element hammers the batteries and the K2 takes a lot of turning over so if your starting batteries are low then the extra load of the thermostarts may not leave enough umph to turn the K2. Having said that, the K2 will start within a revolution using the thermostarts so the batteries drain is normally not a concern if the batteries are fully charged. Thank you for that. A search on flip top oil cups does produce exactly that component. Yours is a particularly neat installation, and of course it gives some extra brass to keep shiny! Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koukouvagia Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 I had at various times these two arrangements. The first one shows a feed tee-ed off the day tank; the second one just has a simple reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin R Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 On 08/09/2021 at 21:45, 0000 said: The diesel reservoirs on the thermstarts came with the engine so cannot help with like for like replacements, the proper name for these are "flip top oil cups" so maybe a search online will find some. Regarding the need for one thermostart for each cylinder, the answer is NO, only one required. I have two because that's what the previous owner fitted. Just a word of warning, if the thermostarts are allow to run dry, then they will just burn through the heating elements very quickly and they then are scrap - found out as part of my learning curve of Kelvin ownership! 24v thermostarts are not readily available so hard to replace (if anyone knows where they are available, then please let me know). 12v thermostarts were fitted to large numbers of agricultural machinery so can still be found so maybe worth designing a 12v electrical supply with suitable cabling to take the additional amps etc. Speaking of amps, Mtb, you maybe better off using a blowlamp because as we all know, any item with a heating element hammers the batteries and the K2 takes a lot of turning over so if your starting batteries are low then the extra load of the thermostarts may not leave enough umph to turn the K2. Having said that, the K2 will start within a revolution using the thermostarts so the batteries drain is normally not a concern if the batteries are fully charged. There are a couple of CAV 24V thermostats listed on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koukouvagia Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 Make sure you get ones with the correct thread. Also some have a longer reach than others. The 24v ones I had were made in Czechoslovakia. I received this email from the manufacturer: Our distributor for United Kingdom is company Letrika UK, please contact: MARTA.PERKOWSKA@letrika.com or NICK.BREWER@letrika.com By the way, they are often known as Flame Heater Plugs, in case you are searching online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now