New Batteries or a 12V Fridge?

[GUMPY]

1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

An inverter typicall has a standing current of 1 amp - that's 24 Ah 'wasted' per day.

Maybe in your day they did?

My present Victron inverter is rated at 2/3watts in search mode so that's maximum of 6Ah per day ?

 

1 hour ago, OldGoat said:

Some inverters have a lower standby setting, but these aren't 'sensitive' enough to switch on an Eco mains unit. I carried out some tests a couple of years ago and my comments are based on actual experience...

Things have moved on, my fridge LEC happily brings the Inverter out of search mode, I did have to play with the settings to make it do it.

Sadly it's not A++++ rated.

When it gives up I will be doing the freezer trick I mentioned earlier.

Edited June 1, 2021 by Loddon

[RickS]

3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Assuming you already have an inverter so don't need to buy one -  think of the money :

A 12v fridge will be £600+

A 230v fridge will be £89 (70 litre fridge from Currys)

 

Simples !

Thanks you AdE, very useful. I have a 12V fridge at the moment but it is quite old and tatty but wasn't going to replace because of the cost. This info gives me more options

2 hours ago, Loddon said:

If you want something really efficient convert a freezer to run as a fridge.

 

https://reductionrevolution.com.au/blogs/news-reviews/convert-freezer-to-fridge

Really interesting stuff on that website. Not sure I'm up to doing the conversion but not ruling it out either. Thanks

[GUMPY]

29 minutes ago, Rick Savery said:

Really interesting stuff on that website. Not sure I'm up to doing the conversion but not ruling it out either. Thanks

It's very simple using something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-Digital-Heat-Cool-Temperature-Control-Switch-Relay-with-acrylic-case-/223503037210?

Power from 12v put the mains supply through the relay and the probe up the drain hole and away you go.

Or this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-220V-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-with-Sensor-STC-1000-/313439084579?

Same instructions apply.

ETA

You should be able to improve a normal fridge that has a manual control using the above controllers as it will reduce the hysteresis ?

Edited June 1, 2021 by Loddon

[Richard10002]

8 hours ago, JRT said:

Isn't the Sterling Advanced 4 Step Alternator Regulator the monitoring equipment. If not, what do I need?

I have a NASA BM2 and a Victron BMV712 monitoring my separate lead acid and lithium banks.

 

Either would do the trick and both provide a bit more info than a mere voltmeter and ammeter.

 

I had a Sterling inverter charger that used 4A when running nothing, I.e. 96Ah a day! So it is possible that your Sterling may be equally inefficient. 

 

I now have a separate Sterling charger and a Victron Smart inverter which uses 0.8A when powering nothing I.e about 20Ah per day.

Edited June 1, 2021 by Richard10002

[Tony Brooks]

15 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

I have a NASA BM2 and a Victron BMV712 monitoring my separate lead acid and lithium banks.

 

Either would do the trick and both provide a bit more info than a mere voltmeter and ammeter.

 

I had a Sterling inverter charger that used 4A when running nothing, I.e. 96Ah a day! So it is possible that your Sterling may be equally inefficient. 

 

I now have a separate Sterling charger and a Victron Smart inverter which uses 0.8A when powering nothing I.e about 20Ah per day.

 

Agreed, but some of that "bit more" will be to the batteries' detriment unless the owner really understands the manual and how to control the thing. Ideal though for accurate amps and volts. They tend not to be fit and forget if you intend to rely on those "bit more".

[GUMPY]

If you don't have solar Smartgauge is still the most accurate battery monitoring system and its simple to fit.

With solar however you need to understand when it's telling you the truth and when it's not. Just before sunrise us a good time to read it ?

[Tony Brooks]

29 minutes ago, Loddon said:

If you don't have solar Smartgauge is still the most accurate battery monitoring system and its simple to fit.

With solar however you need to understand when it's telling you the truth and when it's not. Just before sunrise us a good time to read it ?

 

And I would add maybe an hour after charging ceases so you can compare that reading with the one just before sunrise and get an extremely rough idea about the degree of sulphation.

 

However, it won't tell you with much accuracy when the batteries are fully charged. You have to guess and then see how good the guess was later on.

[GUMPY]

There is no meter available that will tell you Percent discharge and recharge accurately.

 

 

Without Solar Smartgauge is about as accurate as you will get on discharge and within 10% on charge which is good enough provided you dont stop charging the minute it reaches 100% and no need to be a night owl